OlegV Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Climb: Mt. Hood-Sunshine-Eliot headwall 11-6-4 Date of Climb: 11/6/2004 Trip Report: I was climbing Sunshine yesterday. The snow was wet powder up to 9000 ft. One I got into shadow of North Face the snow conditions changed to frozen crust with patches of ice. By mistake, I changed my route and climbed through the rocky icy chimney ending up on a steep icy Eliot headwall. I had to traverse it to the left and up just next to the rocky headwall. At a time, I thought the thin crust is gonna go, but it hold me for just about thousand steps. Backclimbing down the Eliot Headwall was OK but time-consuming. The lower portion of this steep downclimb was very icy and without snow. The crevasses on Eliot glacier are passable with the firm snow snow bridges. Gear Notes: ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: subshine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted November 7, 2004 Share Posted November 7, 2004 Goog job Oleg. Glad you finally got your summit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkernews Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 Great job! And thanks for the route picture... that's pretty sweet. I'm assuming you climbed the red line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted November 8, 2004 Author Share Posted November 8, 2004 You are very welcome! I did climb the red line and downlimbed the red line. Thanks to the weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 (edited) Nice Climb! You're one lucky dude to be alive. I watched you descending the Eliot as I was belaying from the top of the ice climb on the other side of the glacier. An hour later a huge avalance came down from the upper Eliot and traveled down to the upper serac field. Edited November 8, 2004 by MtnHigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 nice redemption after you cold night 2 weeks ago! so what's the green line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted November 8, 2004 Author Share Posted November 8, 2004 Thank you! Sorry Ivan, I had a typo in my previous post. I climbed the red line, and downclimbed the green line. This av could be a fracture from kicking steps. The snow felt kind of empty underneath the crust. I think I saw you on top of cliff when I was doing traverse, MtnHigh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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