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#335153 - 04/14/04 08:59 AM [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
robertm Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/04/00
Posts: 249
TRs: 8 Photos: 65
Climb: Brothers Traverse-SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse

Date of Climb: 4/11/2004

Trip Report:
Der Wanderer and I headed over to the Brothers to climb the Brothers. I have looked at them long enough so I decided it was a good weekend to give them a go. We approached on Saturday to Lunch Ledge and bivied. From there we climbed the S. Brother SE ridge climbing a series of gullies and a 1/2 pitch of super solid 5th class rock to put us on the S brother summit ridge. The traverse from the S. Brother to the N. Brother had steep exposed soft snow that improved on the west aspects. Rock pro came in real handy to set reliable simul anchors. It took us about 3 hours between the peaks. Note: Finding the lower approach over to the "Great Basin" to do the traverse N. to S. is really involved. This is how we ended up climbing the SE ridge. The rock over there is really pretty damn good. This is a real classic as far as I am concerned... challenging, great views and rewarding summits.

Gear Notes:
set of med to large chocks (used frequently)
8.5 mil rope
long slings
pickets - snow too soft to use

Approach Notes:
No snow until 3000 feet. Soft snow above.

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#335154 - 04/14/04 09:06 AM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
robertm Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/04/00
Posts: 249
TRs: 8 Photos: 65
Pics:








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#335155 - 04/14/04 09:36 AM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
skyclimb Offline
old hand

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 867
TRs: 28 Photos: 140
Sweet Pics!

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#335156 - 04/14/04 09:53 AM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
Sabertooth Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/12/03
Posts: 206
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: On a mountain
Nice! That last pic is awesome with the annotations.

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#335157 - 04/14/04 09:54 AM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
CPOly Offline
member

Registered: 11/04/03
Posts: 177
TRs: 0 Photos: 5
Loc: Olympia
Very nice!
_________________________
They teach us how to make a fist but not to resist

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#335158 - 04/14/04 12:20 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
mvs Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/02/00
Posts: 610
TRs: 14 Photos: 26
Loc: Munich, Germany
Awesome climb!!

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#335159 - 04/14/04 03:53 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
bremerton_john Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/03
Posts: 256
TRs: 14 Photos: 148
Loc: Bremerton
Nice Climb! You know, it's been mentioned in previous posts that the guidebook committee for the Olympics is presently working on the new edition. The Brothers Traverse was something that they felt could use an improved write-up. Robert, would you be willing to contribute?

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#335160 - 04/14/04 04:44 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
robertm Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/04/00
Posts: 249
TRs: 8 Photos: 65
I would be happy to contribute. Our experience on the route might be different than some parties due to the fact that we did the climb in April (snow cover). The mountaineers description for access to the Great Basin is so misleading that it would be better if you had no description at all. From lunch ledge (~5300) ascend right and up eastward several hundered yards. You should be no higher than 5800 feet to find the gap to head into the great basin (it is farther than you think).

That being said I think the traverse from the S to N isn't all that bad (summer might be a different story). Also, SE ridge of S. brother is a pretty cool option rather than the standard S. Coulier. (my .02)

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#335161 - 04/14/04 08:02 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3433
TRs: 61 Photos: 605
Loc: Seattle!
Hey, again: Good Job, My girlfriend and I were the ones you ran into on the way out
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#335162 - 04/14/04 08:38 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
Alpinfox Offline
Tebow Believer

Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 5220
TRs: 22 Photos: 320
Very nice pictures! Muchas Gracias!

_________________________
let's spank this pony and see where she goes

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#335163 - 04/14/04 10:17 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
Squid Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 2585
TRs: 2 Photos: 27
Loc: back of the short bus


Nice pics!
_________________________
Employee of the Month

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#335164 - 04/14/04 10:41 PM Re: [TR] Brothers Traverse- SE Ridge to S. Brother to N. Brother via traverse 4/11/2004
Der_Wanderer Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/24/03
Posts: 43
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Shenzhen, China
Hey Wayne, I thought I recognized you when I saw you at the lake but I couldn't recall until a few steps away...I saw your Pickets enchainment slideshow a few months ago. Good seeing you there.
-Theron

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