Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors





Pro Mountain Sports
Thermawrap Parka 12.8oz

CC.com Articles *READ ME!*
Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Back Country Skiing
Metolius Offset Review
Equipment for Alpinism
Showcase : Integral Designs Reflexion Bivy
Who's Online
12 registered (Good2Go, DRep, Bmulvihill, eldiente, 6 invisible), 96 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Supporting CC.com
Forum Stats
25824 Members
52 Forums
95977 Topics
1122889 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 111
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
KaskadskyjKozak 86
JasonG 77
telemarker 68
Feck 67
wayne 61
G-spotter 56
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#305623 - 02/03/04 12:47 PM [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon
Crackbolter Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 04/15/02
Posts: 612
TRs: 5 Photos: 12
Loc: Wellington, WA
Climb: Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon

Date of Climb: 9/29/2001

Trip Report:
The wall is listed in the CAG as "a triangular slab..corner..climbed by Pete Doorish...5.7, etc" (See "The Mole" and you will find the paragraph on the slab)

The route had obviously been climbed before so it is confirmed that Pete Doorish did the first ascent although we found this information out just after we had climbed the route.

The first pitch is 5.8, the central corner pitch is the crux at 5.10+ and the final pitch is a splended hand crack to the top. Descend by traversing the crest and a short rappel into a low angle sandy gully.

This is an ideal second day route if you are planning on climbing the Mole, Blockhouse or Duolith.

Given the quality of rock, exposure and location, I think this route deserves to be repeated many times. It is a bit short for the approach but well worth the effort.




Gear Notes:
Standard rack to 3.5"
All pitches have very good gear!

Approach Notes:
We approached the route by hiking up the Hook Creek Drainage (From Icicle Creek) and traversing the Edward Mesa then hiking down the gully that leads into the Rat Creek Drainage.

You may bivy either in the Hook Creek drainage (with plenty of water) or on the Mesa which is harder to find water.

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Arcteryx Bastion Long
$54.95
Save 30%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#305624 - 02/03/04 01:13 PM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon 9/29/1999 *DELETED*
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30032
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
Post deleted by mattp
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top
#305625 - 02/03/04 01:25 PM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- *DELETED*
sobo Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 10973
TRs: 4 Photos: 267
Loc: The Oklahoma Dustbowl of AFG
Post deleted by mattp
_________________________
By royal proclamation of Marmot Prince, I am an e-mountaineer and I don't know shit.

Top
#305626 - 02/03/04 02:07 PM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30032
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
Maybe its a Bob Shonerd route not a Pete Doorish route
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top
#305627 - 02/04/04 05:23 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
Kyle_Flick Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/00
Posts: 313
TRs: 17 Photos: 17
Loc: Cashmere,Washington,USA
Another approach, which will take about 5 hours is directly up Rat Creek Canyon. Locals years ago beat a small path up the left side. While not as unsavory as it looks, remnents of it are still there today complete with rusty old cans at camps spots. Below the base of the wall is a small pond where they built a picnic table out of logs before the Forest Service decided to try and take it apart. Probably prudent to bring a bivy sack. How many pitches is the climb?

Top
#305628 - 02/04/04 07:35 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
rr666 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 04/06/01
Posts: 410
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, WA
Great looking wall, when is it going to be dry and warm enough to climb? All I see out my window is the gloom of rain...
_________________________
"In my kingdom cold
At the mountains of madness
Unending grimness" -Immortal

Top
#305629 - 02/04/04 08:20 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- *DELETED*
JoshK Offline
sprayer

Registered: 07/09/02
Posts: 5960
TRs: 27 Photos: 237
Loc: Seattle
Post deleted by mattp

Top
#305630 - 02/04/04 08:34 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- *DELETED*
HRoark Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/09/03
Posts: 559
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Post deleted by mattp
_________________________
"...or will you walk away and plead apathy again?..." - Nevermore

Top
#305631 - 02/04/04 09:25 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
Crackbolter Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 04/15/02
Posts: 612
TRs: 5 Photos: 12
Loc: Wellington, WA
It should be in about the same time as most of the Stuart Range or Cashmere crag routes. The route is 3 pitches. 5.8, 5.10+, 5.9.

I posted it so you guys could climb it if you felt like it.

Top
#305632 - 02/04/04 06:34 PM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
slaphappy Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/16/01
Posts: 857
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Quote:

Why are you posting a TR from a 2001 climb??




Why on earth does it matter when Tony climbed the route? Does everyone need to immediately run home and blah blah blah what they did the day previous or earlier that day? Does this delay in time effect anyones decision on repeating a fine route? Perhaps he was gettin motivated for the up-in-coming season and tryin to share some of his enthusiasm.
_________________________
"I don't believe in fate... I believe in bad luck."

Top
#305633 - 02/05/04 08:09 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- *DELETED*
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 15460
TRs: 111 Photos: 1635
Loc: Oceania
Post deleted by mattp
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#305634 - 02/05/04 08:40 AM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- *DELETED*
Bug Offline
sprayer

Registered: 02/22/02
Posts: 6654
TRs: 5 Photos: 127
Loc: Redmond WA
Post deleted by mattp
_________________________
You can't handle this.

Top
#305635 - 02/05/04 02:20 PM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
pms Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 11/04/00
Posts: 492
TRs: 3 Photos: 15
Loc: Seattle, WA 98105
thanks for the cool TR CRACKBOLTER. Was that another trip with RC? You guys rule!

Top
#305636 - 02/11/04 12:05 PM Re: [TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-
erik Offline
sprayer

Registered: 12/07/00
Posts: 9010
TRs: 1 Photos: 27
c.b. good to see you finally posted that report...i cant wait to get back there this summer and love the stuart range granite again...
_________________________
there has got to be a god; the world could not have become so fucked up by chance alone -abbey

Top



Moderator:  mattp, minx, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top