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#1155150 - 06/12/17 06:55 PM [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017
geosean Offline

Registered: 06/04/14
Posts: 62
TRs: 18 Photos: 45
Loc: Bellingham
Trip: Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge

Date: 6/11/2017

Trip Report:
With a somewhat iffy weather forecast we opted for an easier climb. We went into it pretty casually... so much so that we didn't really read any beta before hand. More on that later. We did have cell phone pics of the Beckey description.

We didn't know where to cross the creek but found a way. We stayed dry (or at least no one admitted to getting wet). There was a perfect amount of snow for accessing the ridge. We wore boots which was probably good because even with cool temps the snow was pretty wet.

The first pitch (Beckey 5.2) was quite scary - very chossy and lots of loose holds. We simuled up it and along the crest to the summit block where we pitched out three short pitches to avoid rope drag. We also put on rock shoes at this point.

After lounging on the summit in surprisingly warm and calm weather for quite a while we headed down. We totally botched the descent - if you go the way we went you will understand why people say to rap the S. Buttress. I believe there is a way to make it easy, but we already had all the training weight of extra clothing, so why take the easy way down. What you should do is rap skiers right from the summit chains (I think). We went skiers left and ended up below the south side of the ridge following tat nests for 5 raps (I think) until we hit snow again in the bowl.

It would have been fun to down-climb the ridge, but at least we know the way not to go now.

It took us 10.5 hours, leisurely with lots of time on top.

Gear Notes:
Single rack, single rope, axes, rock shoes (not really needed but nice) and boots.

Lots more in the packs all day.

Approach Notes:
Super cruiser snow. S. Buttress gullies are melting out though.
- Sean

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#1155156 - 06/12/17 11:00 PM Re: [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017 [Re: geosean]
bellows Offline

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 152
TRs: 29 Photos: 315
Loc: Seattle
Pics? I think the easiest/fastest way off Cutthroat is actually the West Ridge that you came up. Three single rope raps off newer chains and some 3rd/4th class down climbing along the ridge. The lower two sets of chains aren't especially easy to find though.

#1155162 - 06/13/17 10:39 AM Re: [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017 [Re: geosean]
Nick Sweeney Offline

Registered: 07/30/14
Posts: 24
TRs: 10 Photos: 0
Loc: Spokane, WA
Any pictures? Is the South Buttress snow free yet? Nice send!

#1155172 - 06/14/17 08:37 AM Re: [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017 [Re: geosean]
max_leitner Offline

Registered: 07/14/14
Posts: 6
TRs: 3 Photos: 10
Loc: Seattle
Yes, rap skiers right off the first rap station. Last Fall I rapped off leftwards and dropped down to a block full of tat and soon realized my error. Fortunately, this was before my partner began his rappel and I was able to climb back to the rap station without losing much time. We descended the West Ridge smoothly after that. I recall it was with 2 raps down to a pretty fun ridge scramble, then 3 more raps, followed by some scree surfing to the basin.

#1155174 - 06/14/17 12:45 PM Re: [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017 [Re: geosean]
geosean Offline

Registered: 06/04/14
Posts: 62
TRs: 18 Photos: 45
Loc: Bellingham
I didn't see any snow on the south butt. The only snow we touched on the ridge was on the north side, so I would guess it is all clear. The gullies to approach the buttress looked tricky though, kind of shoulder season stuff:

Easy section of the ridge with weather behind (it was dry all day, just cloudy):

Also why do some of the pics rotate? It doesn't display that way anywhere else.
- Sean

#1155233 - 06/18/17 09:22 AM Re: [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017 [Re: geosean]
canela Offline

Registered: 05/08/16
Posts: 30
TRs: 5 Photos: 12
But don't rapp too far skier's right from the summit. That leads to having to climb back up your rap line, from experience.


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