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#1154743 - 05/12/17 09:57 PM [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017
Alex789 Offline
n00b

Registered: 02/25/12
Posts: 40
TRs: 11 Photos: 0
Loc: bellevue, wa
Trip: Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully

Date: 5/6/2017

Trip Report:
We climbed Mount Hood Right Gully on a weekend 6-7 Mat 2017. The weather was very promising at last. As I have to drive to from Seattle to Portland to join my friends Oleg and Ananstasia, I insisted that we go with approach to have a sleep before climb. We started fom Tilly Jane parking lot at 1:20 PM on Saturday. Originally we planned to camp on an Elliot Glacier. However when qwe arrived at Cooper Spur Shelter, we encountered strong and cold wind and decided that it is not worth to hike further up. We made our camp in a shade of the shelter.


Next morning we started at 3:15 AM. The wind was still strong and cold. Anastasia got cold feet and decided to turn back. We continued with Oleg. We arrived at the bergshrund at 7 AM and traversed across the right side of the bergshrund.


After the bergshrund we found a good consolidated neve. We continued by simul-climbing on front points. First step was a short WI2 section. Then long section of simul-climbing again. Second step was also short and easy.


More front-pointing followed and we topped the summit at 11:10 AM.


To get back to our came we decided to descend Sunshine route. We downclimbed it and bypassed many crevasses arriving at camp at 4 PM and back to car at 6:30 PM. Very mellow conditions now on North Face. Hard neve makes good exercise for calves.

http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2017_Albums/2017_05_07_Mount_Hood/81_Downclimbing_Sunshine.JPG

Gear Notes:
60 m ropes
2 ice tools each
2 pickets
2 screws
Several slings

Approach Notes:
We did not use flotation, but with warmer temperatures snow can be softer and flotation might be needed.

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#1154745 - 05/13/17 04:22 PM Re: [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017 [Re: Alex789]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
rawk
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1154755 - 05/15/17 10:20 AM Re: [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017 [Re: Alex789]
Kameron Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/08/13
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, WA
Hey, cool trip! How is the road access?
_________________________
kamtron

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#1154757 - 05/15/17 12:44 PM Re: [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017 [Re: Alex789]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR


The North Face and the Elliot in full beauty!

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#1154758 - 05/15/17 12:55 PM Re: [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017 [Re: Alex789]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR

The NF in Morning glory

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#1154759 - 05/15/17 12:55 PM Re: [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017 [Re: Kameron]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR
Originally Posted By: Kameron
Hey, cool trip! How is the road access?


The road is usually closed till July

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