Middle Fork, Peak 3964 - False Idol, WI3+, 500m (FA)Date:
On January 6, 2017, at the end of a prolonged cold snap, I established a long waterfall ice route on the NE face of Peak 3964 in the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River valley with Dave Jordan. Our route climbs two tiers of ice, separated by a few rope lengths of snow covered waterice and snice. The first 200 meters is classic waterfall ice climbing, while the upper bits have more thoughtful protection akin to our local alpine climbing. All told, it is reminiscent of Guinness Gully in the Canadian Rockies. We found the route to be very worthwhile and not overly committing--given the bountiful rappel trees on both sides of the route.
Peak 3964 (left) and Revelation Peak (right). The route climbs the right side of the Y-shaped clearing.
The route from the approach
Dave on the 90 meter WI3 second step (pitches 3-4).
Parties interested in making this an alpine adventure can continue for another couple rope lengths and attain the summit. There is an easy gully on the SW side of the peak that could likely be used to skip the copious tree rappels down the route.
The route is named in keeping with the biblical theme of the area.
FA: Kurt Hicks, Dave Jordan
6 January, 2017
Approach map: Gear Notes:
10-14 ice screws, 2 ropes to rappel. No rock gear currently needed.Approach Notes:
Park at the Middle Fork Snoqualmie trailhead. Cross the river and turn right onto the Pratt Connector Trail. Follow this downstream for about 30 minutes until at the bottom of a long set of descending stairs (near a large outcrop with a mini cave in it). Turn left off the trail and ascend steeply up a gully. Continue generally up and slightly left through open woods. Stay to the right of a decent sized flowing creek and gain some large old growth trees. We continued up a short snowy talus field before moving right onto a treed rib and up to the base of the route. If you're bushwhacking, you're blowing the approach. 1.5 hours from the car.
Descent was made via rappels from trees on the climber's right side of the climb. Two ropes are recommended, though we did an endless series of single rope raps since we only brought one cord.