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#1138149 - 05/03/15 01:22 PM [TR] Illumination Rock - South Skylight 5/2/2015
bonathanjarrett Offline
member

Registered: 01/29/05
Posts: 183
TRs: 20 Photos: 129
Trip: Illumination Rock - South Skylight

Date: 5/2/2015

Trip Report:
My partner and I climbed the South Skylight route on Saturday. Having climbed it in the past, twice, I was felt confident that we could leave the majority of the ice screws in the car. I was wrong. The route, and all the face right now, is fat with ice/snice. We had trouble finding any rock gear. The two ice screws that we did bring were not adequate to protect the route. The seams and cracks that I had used previously were all buried. In fact there was fat blue ice pouring out of the skylight itself.

We left a cord and rap ring on the summit and two pins with an equalized cord below and to climbers left of the skylight. The other rap material that had existed previously had been bootied or was buried.

The route could be climbed with just ice screws right now. That said the ice is fairly aerated.

Looking down at the first belay


The pin belay we left would be right over my partner's head in this photo


Summit rap station, out right once you climb through the skylight


Gear Notes:
Two screws, could have used 6-8
Handful of pitons
Slim rack to 2"
Rap tat

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#1138160 - 05/03/15 06:51 PM Re: [TR] Illumination Rock - South Skylight 5/2/2015 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Nice.

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#1138162 - 05/03/15 07:25 PM Re: [TR] Illumination Rock - South Skylight 5/2/2015 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
Ben Beckerich Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/14/13
Posts: 518
TRs: 0 Photos: 26
Thanks for the conditions update - I'm getting up there this week for sure, now.

How many pitches are those north face lines? Seems like you ought to be able to climb up the base a bit and nab pretty much all of them with a 70m...?

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#1138164 - 05/03/15 07:33 PM Re: [TR] Illumination Rock - South Skylight 5/2/2015 [Re: Ben Beckerich]
bonathanjarrett Offline
member

Registered: 01/29/05
Posts: 183
TRs: 20 Photos: 129
Two pitches. I doubt you could get down from the top of the skylight with double 70's in one shot, but I couldn't say for sure.

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