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[TR] The Dragonslayers - Dragontail Peak Triple Couloirs 3/2/2015


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Trip: The Dragonslayers - Dragontail Peak Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 3/2/2015

 

Trip Report:

Sunday morning Kyle Flick and I slayed the Dragon along with at least 3 other parties.

 

Conditions were great. The runnels were in good shape. The Couloirs were all caked with new snow, making upward progress difficult. We simul-climbed the 1st and 2nd couloirs, and we had 2 pitches in the runnels with a little bit of simulling. We also belayed the transition of the 2nd to 3rd couloir which had a little bit of easy mixed climbing. We then soloed the 3rd couloir to the top and then plunge stepped our way down to the lake in knee deep snow. We spent approx 8hrs on the route.

 

 

Approaching the Runnels in the 1st Couloir. The strong party already climbing the 1st pitch.

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Ecstatic to finally be in the sun. Super chilly on the north side.

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Big wind slab on the decent.

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Kyle on the summit!

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We took the right side to enter the hidden couloir. Ice turned into a long section of Neve.

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View from camp

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It took me around 5 hours to make it to the lake Saturday night. We woke at 2:00 and broke trail to the base until we were passed by a strong party midway through the first couloir. We summited around 1 o'clock and I made it back to my car at 20:00. It took 23 hours to slay the beast.

 

Gear Notes:

We took 5 screws (2 stubbies)

4 cams, (.4,.75,1) and a purple link cam

2 pickets

 

Approach Notes:

The trail was in good shape. I went in with just my boots no spikes. The fresh snow made the approach easy. I'm sure the trail will become icy again soon so I would recommend some kind of traction to get in.

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Nice job guys! Thanks for breaking trail from the lake up to the climb (we were the party of two that passed you guys in the first couloir). The crux runnels definitely seemed to be in nice fat conditions. And the weather was amazing!

 

Here is a shot of you guys coming up the 1st couloir.

Triple_Couloirs_2.jpg

 

And one more of the sunrise with my partner Ryan approaching our belay mid way up the ice runnels. You can see you guys at the base of the runnels in the background.

Triple_Couloirs_1.jpg

Edited by mthorman
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