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#1135332 - 03/01/15 04:44 PM [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Trip: Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect

Date: 2/28/2015

Trip Report:
After reading the reports on good conditions on Watusi Rodeo, Michal Rynkiewicz and I took back my “putting the tools away for year” statement and decided to start packing. Shout out to the guys who posted the last report!



We hiked into the head of the valley and set up camp at the base of the avalanche gulley Friday night after work. It took us about 2.5 hrs in the dark.

We started up the next morning at 3, unable to see Colonial as the moon had disappeared behind it. We followed the avalanche gully to where we thought the base of the climb might be (2.5 hrs). With the moon gone we still could not see the face at this point. We started up a couloir (should have taken a ramp right into the gully beneath the climb) and to the base of a nice looking flow being bombarded by spindrift.



Realizing we were at the wrong flow (We think) and unable to resist what was in front of us we headed up. It was instantly steep and provided a short but stout pitch of WI5. Recommended start!





After this, Mike started up a short pitch of ice into a vertical snowplow and traversed into Watusi’s first water ice flow. This ended up being a 900 ft simul-block that ended at the base of second ice flow enroute.



The next block ran to the summit. It consisted of two ice bands and eventually into a more game on than it looks mixed chimney. Awesome pitch!















Gear Notes:
Single Rack to .75, 10 screws, a few knife blades, a specter, and couple pickets.

Approach Notes:
Approach - Park at the Colonial Creek drainage. Hike up the left side of the creek until the creek becomes reasonable for access. Follow the creek bed to the head of the valley. Running water makes this a good spot to bivy. From here, head up the obvious avalanche gully, eventually heading east below the route.

Descent – Head down the west ridge of Colonial to the saddle separating Pyramid. Traverse generally East and stay high close to the base of the face. Continue traversing as long as possible avoiding cliff bans. When no longer able to traverse, start down climbing steep terrain until able to make a rappel back into the avalanche gulley and regain your tracks.

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#1135333 - 03/01/15 05:45 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
fourteenfour Offline
member

Registered: 12/22/11
Posts: 175
TRs: 6 Photos: 43
Loc: PNW // SLC // NE
Nice work! You guys have been getting after it lately. Keep up the good work. Hopefully I can meet you next time I'm climbing with Michal.

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#1135334 - 03/01/15 06:02 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1474
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Shweet! Looks like nice ice.

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#1135335 - 03/01/15 06:29 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17458
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
in danger of becoming the new triple coolers? smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1135339 - 03/01/15 11:26 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: ivan]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1706
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
rocken

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#1135341 - 03/02/15 05:47 AM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: ivan]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Originally Posted By: ivan
in danger of becoming the new triple coolers? smile


It is worth noting that the climb does lack consistent gear, and that to be found is often questionable at that. The routes cruxes supplied poor protection well beneath you. It may be worth a read of Wayne Wallace's trip report from awhile back before deciding on this one!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/10350/Number/140726

That being said,we had a blast and it's a great alpine climb for anybody up for it smile.


Edited by Ryan Hoover (03/02/15 05:49 AM)

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#1135357 - 03/02/15 10:14 AM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
glassgowkiss Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 03/08/03
Posts: 3961
TRs: 3 Photos: 81
Loc: in the gutter
As far as I remember FA team did simul solo the entire route. Probably the biggest issue is avi danger, proximity to the coast and low elevation, making it harder logistically then technically. The same goes for "It ain't over motherfuckers" on neighboring Pyramid Peak, where logistical challenges (approach, low elevation, and avi danger) are your biggest obstacles, rather then the technical difficulties of climbing itself.
_________________________
Nemesis: "a righteous infliction of retribution, manifested by an appropriate agent..."

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#1135366 - 03/02/15 12:08 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: ivan]
Pete_H Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/20/09
Posts: 2783
TRs: 7 Photos: 188
Loc: Der
Originally Posted By: ivan
in danger of becoming the new triple coolers? smile


Then someone will have to ski it.

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#1135388 - 03/02/15 07:53 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: glassgowkiss]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Originally Posted By: glassgowkiss
As far as I remember FA team did simul solo the entire route.


I think you may be thinking of this route http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=942982 . I'm not sure on the first ascent, though being it's a Mark Twight route, I wouldn't doubt it'

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#1135392 - 03/02/15 09:58 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
num1mc Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/06/01
Posts: 707
TRs: 0 Photos: 45
They did the route a week of two prior to John's thirtieth birthday, and John was showing slides at his party. I think John and Monty simo'ed the route, but not the other two.

Wholly christ I got drunk that night. Stole Monty's beer and puked in front of John's car.


Edited by num1mc (03/02/15 09:59 PM)

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#1135393 - 03/02/15 10:08 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17458
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
anything worth doing's worth getting filthy drunk celebrating brew
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1136682 - 03/26/15 06:41 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: num1mc]
Monte Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/09/02
Posts: 3
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Originally Posted By: num1mc
They did the route a week of two prior to John's thirtieth birthday, and John was showing slides at his party. I think John and Monty simo'ed the route, but not the other two.

Wholly christ I got drunk that night. Stole Monty's beer and puked in front of John's car.


stole my beer? what's up with that?

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#1136686 - 03/26/15 08:38 PM Re: [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
num1mc Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/06/01
Posts: 707
TRs: 0 Photos: 45
It's not like I stole it and took it home, I ran out of my Wienhards dark, so I helped myself to a couple of yours. lmao

And probably a couple of John's, Randy's and Bebie's too.

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