Jump to content

[TR] South Early Winter Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.10- C0 8/9/2014


HighLife

Recommended Posts

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.10- C0

 

Date: 8/9/2014

 

Trip Report:

The bolt ladders were quite exciting. Manky gear, homemade gear! and a missing hanger on the second ladder. If I didn't know better I'd think it was C1+. If you have never been aid climbing these might put a smile on your face. There are enough good bolts to keep things reasonable.

 

The DEB was a fun climb with the third pitch being a 4-star gem. Just don't overshoot the start of the third pitch off to the right like I did.

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_080.JPG

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_083.JPG

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_086.JPG

The winds changed and brought the forest fire smoke to Washington Pass.

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_089.JPG

Alex leading p5 heading into the 1st bolt ladder. This pitch with the steep 5.9 crack is probably the crux pitch.

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_092.JPG

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_094.JPG

Silver Star Mtn is lost in smoke!

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_095.JPG

Hanging out above the hairpin.

 

DEB_SEWS_8-9-14_100.JPG

Alex is as stoked as ever even in a cloud of smoke.

 

Gear Notes:

Double set cams finger-#4C4

One set offset nuts

I didn't find TCU's necessary

An alpine aider per person would be reasonable but not mandatory.

15 draws (4 quick, 9 single length alpine, 2 doubles)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 1
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...