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[TR] The Tooth - South Face 10/20/2013


jakedouglas

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Trip: The Tooth - South Face

 

Date: 10/20/2013

 

Trip Report:

DPS and I had a great trip up The Tooth today, leaving the parking lot at 6:30am. I figured all of the snow would have melted out by now, but I quickly regretted wearing trail running shoes with mesh uppers when my feet got soaked by step kicking and postholing up in the bowl.

 

We swung leads with me starting on P1. As soon as I got out of the shade it must have been 75 degrees. I had dressed for chilly weather with long underwear bottoms and a heavier weight long sleeve shirt and I sweated my guts out for the rest of the climb, finishing off all 3 liters of water that I brought before we even got back down.

 

We were treated to amazing views and encountered only one other party on our way down. We found the rappel tree at the top of P2 to be well on the way to toppling over, and so we moved the anchor to a sturdier tree/root thing right next to it. Thanks DPS for the handiwork.

 

The only "mishap" was that the 60m rope we used did not quite reach the ledge for the second rappel station on the way down Pineapple Pass. I had to reach out and clip myself to the anchor and then downclimb to the ledge. This ended up not being a big deal but it was interesting to find this rope be so much shorter than the other 60m I had used before, that reached the ledge with a foot or two to spare. Stretch maybe.

 

On the hike out, we saw some guys on Rap Wall doing some very tough looking dry tooling. All in all an awesome day, home by mid afternoon.

 

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Approaching on often breakable crust

 

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Coming up P1

 

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Rainier selfie

 

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Looking up P2

 

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Looking up P4

 

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DPS on the summit

 

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Glacier peak behind me

 

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Moving the P2 rappel anchor

 

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DPS heading down

 

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Dude working hard on Rap Wall

 

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Fall colors are in

 

Gear Notes:

Used: Sunglasses

 

Did not use: Soft shell, hard shell, insulated jacket, gloves, warm hat, and anything else I brought in anticipation of cold/wet weather

 

Could have used: Sunscreen, swimsuit

 

Approach Notes:

Just enough snow on the talus field to be annoying.

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