Eric T Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) Trip: Mt. Stuart - West Ridge Date: 8/6/2013 Trip Report: West Ridge of Mt. Stuart; Tuesday August 6th Conditions Report. One can climb the West Ridge of Stuart in almost complete shade, if you time it right, for the next few weeks. That was the experience I had on Aug 6th when I reached the 3rd class ascent gully on the SW side of the Mountain at Sunrise. The sun is rising on the NE side of the peak leaving the West Ridge in the shade until 10:00 in the morning. The summit block is even shading the west ridge at that time. I mention this because the weather was 98 degrees in Ellensburg on the 6th and may be hot for the next few weeks. I filled my water bottles and my belly at Ingalls Lake and only took two quarts up the mountain. I would recommend three minimum, four would be prudent for slower parties. The next opportunity for water was 60% of the way down the Cascadian Couloir. The entire route is marked with cairns and route finding was very straightforward for all the fuss I've heard over the years. Cairns marked the ascent gully, the traverse at the top of that gully, the route to long John Tower and I even saw a few on the top of the ridge. The best climbing on the route is definitely on the summit block. From the West Ridge Col up around briefly onto the North side of the mountain provides the best exposure of the route on 5.5 moves and there is some classic rock and easy fifth moves back on the south side as you near the summit. The best move has an old piton hammered in at your face. You won't believe the size of the summit register box, it could hold the Beijing yellow pages, no exaggeration. The snow patch remains on the descent. Luckily for me my Buddies Shaun and Beau insisted I take crampons and an ax and threw said items at me on my way out the door. If you take a rope you won't need crampons or an ax for the decent. There was only a 20 foot section of steep snow left for me to cross and I put the claws on and stepped across it. It should be melted out in days and neither a rope or crampons will be needed for the descent of the Cascadian Couloir. The crux of the route for me was the 1.1 miles from Ingalls creek back up over Longs Pass. It was the heat of the day and I’m not to fit right meow. My mind went soft and I started thinking I'm too old for this car2car shit….ha. Maybe it was the heat; I'm feeling much stronger now, back on my couch. What a great day in the Cascade Country Club!!! You gotta love the greens fee at the Triple C.... Looking North Gorillas in the Mist is on this wall... Looking up the initial ascent gully... Looking South down the initial ascent gully just before the traverse. Ingalls Lake and Peaks at top. The traverse at the top of the first gully. Note carin at low left. After Traverse looking up at Long John Tower... Looking East along the West Ridge from the notch at Long John Tower. Summit Block from West Ridge. Looking West from West Ridge notch, Ingalls Lake and Peaks at left with I-90 climbs above.. Some of the best exspoure on the climb on the north side of the summit block above the notch. North from Summit. Wildfire burning to the West. Summit Pano S to NW. Summit Pano NW to NE This is a crop of the above pano looking NE into the core Enhancements. Follow me around the room from low left to right if you will. Slab low left Summit of Mt Stuart, Colchuck Balance Rock, Spineless Prow with Acid Baby and The Valkyrie, The High Priestess and Prusik Peak on the skyline, Dragontails dark shoulder with Colchuck in front, the top of McCleen Butte, Little Annapurna hiding Crystal Lake Spire, Nightmare Spires just below skyline, Argonaut. What did I miss? Corrections? Gear Notes: Climbing Shoes, Ax, Crampons. A Baked Sweet Potato with a mixture of butter, cinnamon, brown sugar and red pepper flakes filling the inside. I said it. Approach Notes: Teanaway Road to Ingalls Lake Trail. Edited August 10, 2013 by Eric T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Excellent solo outing! Thanks for the share. And this just sounds brilliant: "A Baked Sweet Potato with a mixture of butter, cinnamon, brown sugar and red pepper flakes filling the inside." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Love that climb, sounds like you had a good day. Isn't that Argonaut instead of Sherpa on the right of the photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Jason, I think you're right. Good call...Sherpa is right out of the frame. And yes, that is one fun climb! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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