Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC CarryoverDate:
Just returned from a fun trip on Rainier going up the Kautz and coming down the DC over the July 4 holiday. We had great weather all days, and had maybe 40mph winds with 32F temps on the summit.
Conditions in the Kautz chute were a bit all over the place with about 6 inches of manky snow on top of ice. Higher up the chute in the steeper parts the ice was more prominent. We sunk a couple screws in through this part as a running belay. I was also happy to have 1 ice tool along with my standard mountaineering axe.
There is also, what I felt, was a pretty secure fixed line at the rock step prior to dropping onto the Kautz. Though still takes an awkward move or 2 to get past this section.
A couple good water sources on route up to about 12k, with an especially solid one about 200 feet above Castle camp.
Looking up the Fan:
Taking a rest while a couple guided teams clear the bottom of the chute:
Clearing the crux:
A team below:
Quick summit shot:
Handlines through an ice fall on the upper Ingraham:
Party at Muir: Gear Notes:
Standard glacier gear + an ice tool.Approach Notes: