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#1108035 - 07/10/13 12:20 PM [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013
AndyJB444 Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/10/13
Posts: 1
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: Boulder, CO
Trip: Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover

Date: 7/3/2013

Trip Report:
Hey all,

Just returned from a fun trip on Rainier going up the Kautz and coming down the DC over the July 4 holiday. We had great weather all days, and had maybe 40mph winds with 32F temps on the summit.

Conditions in the Kautz chute were a bit all over the place with about 6 inches of manky snow on top of ice. Higher up the chute in the steeper parts the ice was more prominent. We sunk a couple screws in through this part as a running belay. I was also happy to have 1 ice tool along with my standard mountaineering axe.

There is also, what I felt, was a pretty secure fixed line at the rock step prior to dropping onto the Kautz. Though still takes an awkward move or 2 to get past this section.

A couple good water sources on route up to about 12k, with an especially solid one about 200 feet above Castle camp.

Cheers!
Andy

Looking up the Fan:

Taking a rest while a couple guided teams clear the bottom of the chute:

Clearing the crux:

A team below:

Quick summit shot:

Upper DC:

Handlines through an ice fall on the upper Ingraham:

Party at Muir:

Gear Notes:
Standard glacier gear + an ice tool.

Approach Notes:
Paradise

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#1110479 - 08/17/13 01:32 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: AndyJB444]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 753
TRs: 25 Photos: 568
Loc: Seatte, WA
cool! nice shots!

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#1114374 - 10/23/13 06:00 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: AndyJB444]
Dchromey Offline
member

Registered: 04/18/12
Posts: 182
TRs: 8 Photos: 147
Loc: Washington
Late June early July this route looks awesome! Would love to try it someday!

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#1114402 - 10/24/13 11:42 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: AndyJB444]
APE Offline
n00b

Registered: 04/24/12
Posts: 41
TRs: 0 Photos: 5
Sweet pictures! I did the same (Kautz to DC carryover) a couple of weeks after your trip and conditions looked very similar. We opted to avoid the fan due to the debris, which your first photo captures.

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#1114420 - 10/24/13 12:31 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: AndyJB444]
CaleHoopes Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/17/06
Posts: 475
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: Sammamish
The Kautz is one of the best routes on the mountain. Very awesome!
_________________________
Cale Hoopes
caledh@gmail.com

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#1114457 - 10/24/13 05:08 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: AndyJB444]
Dchromey Offline
member

Registered: 04/18/12
Posts: 182
TRs: 8 Photos: 147
Loc: Washington
and in the early season it doesn't look SUPER technical like it would be in the late season.

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#1114481 - 10/24/13 10:07 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: AndyJB444]
Water Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/12/09
Posts: 1179
TRs: 7 Photos: 171
Loc: pdx
no, its not. fwiw we had plans to ski it in early june. the wind had other plans for us that night. wind kept most parties from summitting the mountain during that phase, but, success was had later in july, sans ski gear.
_________________________
feel free to feel free

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#1114603 - 10/26/13 05:43 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: Dchromey]
ScaredSilly Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 960
TRs: 8 Photos: 25
Loc: Ootah, USA
Originally Posted By: Dchromey
and in the early season it doesn't look SUPER technical like it would be in the late season.


It is not super technical at all. Even late season when it gets icy as it is often sun cupped. IMHO many make it a bigger deal than it is. Take a single tool and a couple three screws. Carrying up and over is also the way to go.

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#1114605 - 10/26/13 06:51 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013 [Re: ScaredSilly]
Dchromey Offline
member

Registered: 04/18/12
Posts: 182
TRs: 8 Photos: 147
Loc: Washington
thats the way i would want to do it. Break camp at Hazard and cross over to DC.

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