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#1108012 - 07/10/13 12:48 AM [TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013
denalidevo Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/22/04
Posts: 228
TRs: 57 Photos: 484
Loc: Lynnwood
Trip: Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms

Date: 7/7/2013

Trip Report:
After spending eight days on Mount Rainier, it was nice to get on granite over the weekend. Highlight was climbing on the UTW Sunday. Freakin' love Index! The short of it:

David Holland - Lovin' Arms, 5.10c A0
  • Left parking lot at 7:58 am.
  • UTW base 8:30 am.
  • Climbing at 9 am.
  • P1, 5.9 - Chad.
  • P2, 5.10b - me.
  • P3, 5.10c - Chad.
  • P4, 5.10b - me.
  • P5, 5.11b - Chad w/ a fall and aid. Me w/ falls and aid. I hurt my left shoulder & used primarily my right arm to finish the pitch.
  • P6, 5.9 - Chad only, I was done. He topped out just before 2:00 pm.
  • We rappelled using rap stations down the face left of the DH/LA route and the reached the ground at 2:38 pm.


Photos:

Pitch one


Top of pitch two


Pitch three




Pitch four




Pitch five


Pitch six


Gear Notes:
No crampons or ice axe!

Approach Notes:
No snow!
_________________________
climb.denalidevo.net

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#1108032 - 07/10/13 11:36 AM Re: [TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013 [Re: denalidevo]
eric8 Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/25/02
Posts: 854
TRs: 1 Photos: 28
Loc: uw
nice photos, fyi you can avoid the 11b section by climbing higher in the chimney before traversing out right, you will get to a flake that allows you to traverse out right and rejoin the route above the 11b part. That makes this pitch 10c, still the crux for me though as it is harder than pitch 3 imo.
_________________________
me you can't blame that on a snaffle squid I can if there is a snaffle in my ass...

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#1108062 - 07/10/13 06:09 PM Re: [TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013 [Re: eric8]
denalidevo Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/22/04
Posts: 228
TRs: 57 Photos: 484
Loc: Lynnwood
Went that way the first time I did the route. It's definitely easier. Thought we'd give the hardman version a try this time and got spanked!
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climb.denalidevo.net

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#1108065 - 07/10/13 08:16 PM Re: [TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013 [Re: denalidevo]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17493
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
birdie closure must be lifted then?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1108068 - 07/10/13 09:54 PM Re: [TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013 [Re: ivan]
mattp Offline

Spray Master

Registered: 02/26/01
Posts: 12176
TRs: 36 Photos: 200
Loc: Seattle, WA USA
Originally Posted By: ivan
birdie closure must be lifted then?

Yup, the closure is lifted. The ranger told me that he had heard there were two successful younguns.

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#1108071 - 07/10/13 11:45 PM Re: [TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013 [Re: denalidevo]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17493
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
gotta get some of that bird mojo down here on the beatard-wand smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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