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#1093684 - 01/06/13 08:29 PM [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Trip: Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip

Date: 1/6/2013

Trip Report:
3400 miles, 97 pitches, and a whole lot of salami. For the holiday season, we decided to make a trip down south. For a more in depth report http://www.summitpost.org/christmas-craging-2012/832861


First off, I'd like to thank the rickety old 4runner for making it there and back.



First stop: Ouray, Colorado

















Some of the Camp Bird Road Ice. All the easy stuff was unfortunately not in, but the 5 leader would have a hay day.





Second Stop: Red Rocks, Nevada

Windy Peak - Jubilant Song













Oak Creek Canyon - Black Orpheus









Next trip's must do, Eagle Wall, hopefully sooner then later.




Third Stop: Joshua Tree, California













Last Stop: Smith Rock, Oregon

Zebra to Zion, if you haven't done it, do it.







Gear Notes:
4Runner


Edited by Ryan Hoover (01/06/13 08:30 PM)

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#1093694 - 01/06/13 09:16 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
PeakBeggar Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/03/10
Posts: 24
TRs: 6 Photos: 2
Loc: washington
So sick! Nice shots looks like fun
_________________________
fuck ya for washington!

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#1093697 - 01/06/13 09:29 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
curtveld Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/01/03
Posts: 1062
TRs: 22 Photos: 190
Loc: Bellingham
OMG those Red Rock shots are soooo tantilizing!

And this is the season to avoid the line-ups for Zebra-Zion, eh?

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#1093698 - 01/06/13 09:30 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: PeakBeggar]
matt_warfield Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/17/02
Posts: 1639
TRs: 8 Photos: 2
Loc: seattle
Ouray is the bomb for ice. No planning, just bleed the line and party down.

Your trip reminded me of one of mine with the first wifey: Boulder CO (Eldo, Flatirons, Boulder Canyon), AZ (Granite Mountain), and JTree. I am currently single.

I hope your tips have recovered from JTree.

And once you get out of the "urban" atmosphere of 5 gallon, Zebra/Zion feels like heaven.

And old rickety 4runners will serve you forever.

Many more trad routes at Smith. Check the Gorge next time.


Edited by matt_warfield (01/06/13 09:45 PM)
_________________________
I do what I want and take what I get

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#1093703 - 01/06/13 10:04 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: matt_warfield]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
I've heard about the Lower Gorge area, been meaning to check it out. Ouray's so easy it feels like a sin, the fingers are doing surprisingly good, the shoes didn't take it so well.

As far as Zebra to Zion, we were the only ones on route all day, although if opting for the original start as we did, you may have to wait for others to finish their climb to traverse on through. Fun start and warm up, but I'd definitely start up one of the alt routes, unless it's bone dry of climbers.

Oh, and Smith had the warmest rock of anywhere, even with some of the lowest temps.

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#1093710 - 01/07/13 04:32 AM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
mountainmatt Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/06
Posts: 1133
TRs: 27 Photos: 281
Loc: Berkeley, CA
Looks like a great trip! brew You definitely covered a lot of distance.

How did you like Jubilant song? I did that route a few years ago and found it to be a little spicy in places.
_________________________
Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.

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#1093711 - 01/07/13 06:02 AM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
matt_warfield Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/17/02
Posts: 1639
TRs: 8 Photos: 2
Loc: seattle
Originally Posted By: Ryan Hoover
I've heard about the Lower Gorge area, been meaning to check it out. Ouray's so easy it feels like a sin, the fingers are doing surprisingly good, the shoes didn't take it so well.

As far as Zebra to Zion, we were the only ones on route all day, although if opting for the original start as we did, you may have to wait for others to finish their climb to traverse on through. Fun start and warm up, but I'd definitely start up one of the alt routes, unless it's bone dry of climbers.

Oh, and Smith had the warmest rock of anywhere, even with some of the lowest temps.


Usually the sportos will yield when you have gear hanging off your harness re: Zebra/Zion. But lots of options to start.

Lots of good trad at Smith, including the backside. Check the guidebook carefully. Many spend days there without clipping a single bolt and many many more only clip bolts. As climbers we like a smorgasbord.

And add the Boulder CO area in the spring/summer/fall to your next trip. You could spend a lifetime on the rock there especially if you include Rocky Mountain National Park, which also has great ice climbing.

Never been to Red Rocks. Was at Vegas once but after spending all night at the blackjack table the Rocks were in plain sight but seemed a million miles away.

I'm glad you had a good trip and thanks for the TR.


Edited by matt_warfield (01/07/13 06:29 AM)
_________________________
I do what I want and take what I get

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#1093713 - 01/07/13 06:45 AM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: mountainmatt]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
I thought it was great. I enjoyed the spice, which came as a bonus surprise. Added a little extra spice by on sighting an alt pitch for the final, which followed a crack under a roof past a piton. I'd recommend this, as the actual finish isn't as exciting. Felt 5.9 ish.

At Matt, again on Smith Rock, have you climbed any of the towers at the near the lower gorge side of the park? They look great.

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#1093757 - 01/07/13 02:42 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
Jacob Smith Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/13/12
Posts: 80
TRs: 10 Photos: 2
Loc: Mill Creek, Washington
I think pound for pound we ate more granola than salami, but both now sound a little gross.
remember when my card didn't work? my account balance was $45.
I have your glasses by the way.

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#1093760 - 01/07/13 03:17 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
matt_warfield Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/17/02
Posts: 1639
TRs: 8 Photos: 2
Loc: seattle
Originally Posted By: Ryan Hoover
I thought it was great. I enjoyed the spice, which came as a bonus surprise. Added a little extra spice by on sighting an alt pitch for the final, which followed a crack under a roof past a piton. I'd recommend this, as the actual finish isn't as exciting. Felt 5.9 ish.

At Matt, again on Smith Rock, have you climbed any of the towers at the near the lower gorge side of the park? They look great.


Smith is a little complicated. You may want to wander a bit next time and visit tuff on the front and back and basalt at the northern and southern gorge. You are probably talking about the northern gorge area accessible by scrambling from the main parking lot. Spend some time getting to know the area because it is special. But the biggest "tower" is Monkeyface which is not in the gorge.


Edited by matt_warfield (01/07/13 03:19 PM)
_________________________
I do what I want and take what I get

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#1093825 - 01/08/13 08:24 AM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
Peakpimp Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/16/07
Posts: 292
TRs: 3 Photos: 64
Loc: Seattle, Wa
Nice Work! We Shared the Camp Bird Road, Angel Creek Campground pullout with you! We were in the white Ford Van with Washington Plates. Ouray is cool but I definitely prefer the bottom up style of ice climbing and it took some getting used to just TR'ing everyting. Good work in Red Rocks! That 5.9 splitter crack in a corner high on Black Orpheus has to be one of the best pitches I've ever done there.
_________________________
Certainty of death, small chance of success... What are we waiting for?

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#1093899 - 01/08/13 04:22 PM Re: [TR] Colorado, California, Oregon. - Road Trip 1/6/2013 [Re: Peakpimp]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Thanks! Black Orpheus is prime, and the pitch is excellent, although I don't think I've seen a pitch with such a gear graveyard, I think I counted three cams and a nut. Sorry for most likely waking you up a few times pulling in and out. We somehow managed to pop a tire somewhere in that pull out.

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