Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support

Supporting Sponsors

Pro Mountain Sports
UL Tec Down Jacket. 11.3 oz

Who's Online
0 registered (), 42 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27516 Members
50 Forums
101098 Topics
1148781 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 107
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1081009 - 09/06/12 06:57 AM [TR] Glacier Peak - White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glaciers 9/2/2012
timmy_t Offline

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 153
TRs: 22 Photos: 566
Loc: Mount Vernon
Trip: Glacier Peak - White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glaciers

Date: 9/2/2012

Trip Report:
My wife, her brother, and I climbed Glacier Peak over the Labor Day weekend. There have been several TRs on this route recently, but it's such a beautiful area that I thought I'd share some photos.

We left the North Fork Sauk Trial at dusk and hiked in headlamps for a couple of hours to make it to Mackinaw Shelter in the dark. Next morning we headed up and we are after finally getting above timberline.

We had a snack at White Pass and talked to a few guys heading to Stehekin via the PCT, then we caught the junction on the Foam Creek trail.

After gaining the saddle above the trail, then dropping into the valley a bit, then gaining the next saddle we were rewarded with this view of a cloud-covered Glacier Peak.

We had lunch in the basin...

Then headed across the remnants of the White Chuck Glacier. A couple we met said it was better to cross the talus/mud area instead of climbing the shoulder past the White Chuck, but having gone up that way and down over the shoulder I have to disagree. Go up the talus early and get on snow.

We still had a bunch of daylight so we went up and over Glacier Gap, dropped a couple hundred feet, gained the climber's trail toward Disappointment Peak and made a nice camp in a rock-wall bivy spot @7700'. Here's Derrick preparing to fly off into the sunset.

The next morning we slept in, ate a good breakfast, drank lots of coffee, and headed up the easy snow of the Gerdine Glacier. There was a shooting gallery section of loose rock that was coming off Disappointment Peak. It's obvious, but I'd recommend staying further right than the boot pack highway goes.

Here is my beautiful wife. It's her birthday today.

There was a very short crevassed section where the Gerdine/Cool Glaciers meet, and one other crevasse crack that looked suspicious lower down on the Gerdine Glacier, but other than that it's smooth sailing. We gained the pumice ridge @9600' and followed the climber's trail to the summit, where we spent an hour watching the clouds come and go. Here the clouds come...

And here the clouds go. A party with two dogs joined us on the summit.

We scrambled back down the trail as a big party came up. Here Derrick catches some air on the pumice ridge near the top of the Cool Glacier.

Here's the little crevassed section on the way down

And the Mer de Glace that surrounds the Kololo Peaks

Back at our 7700' camp

Name the peaks:

Back at Glacier Gap

At the 6600' saddle, nearing the end of a long day


Mt Rainier above White Pass just after sunrise

And again... Mt Rainier for breakfast

One last look at Chossy Peak before heading back to White Pass

Hiking back down the Foam Creek trail under White Mountain and a setting moon

And one last look at Sloan Peak before dropping 3000' into the valley

Approach Notes:
Follow the herd

Help Support CascadeClimbers

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1081102 - 09/07/12 08:31 AM Re: [TR] Glacier Peak - White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glaciers 9/2/2012 [Re: timmy_t]
bvl Offline

Registered: 05/11/08
Posts: 45
TRs: 4 Photos: 35
Loc: Bow,WA Barranquilla Colombia
Beautiful photos. You are making me homesick for the cascades.

#1081183 - 09/07/12 03:18 PM Re: [TR] Glacier Peak - White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glaciers 9/2/2012 [Re: bvl]
timmy_t Offline

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 153
TRs: 22 Photos: 566
Loc: Mount Vernon
Brennan in Colombia! Good to see that you're still lurking on this site! Well, don't get kidnapped by FARC or shot at by the Colombian military, and maybe we can climb something in South America this winter? Or next.


Moderator:  chucK, mattp, Off_White, snoboy, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top