BootsandPants Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Trip: Argonaut Peak - NW Arete Date: 8/4/2012 Trip Report: Chris, Pierre, Nathan and I climbed the NW arete of Argonaut this past weekend. It's a pretty laid back climb in an awesome place, and was even a little eye opening at times. We got a lazy man's alpine start from the TH at 11am and were soon past the junction and in the clearing on the Stuart Lake TH. If you've ever been up that trail on a clear day, you'll never forget that clearing for the rest of your days. [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/405230_10151129485652682_2069168100_n.jpg[/img] Stuart and Sherpa A bit later after leaving the trail and tiptoeing across the tree over Mountaineer Creek, we encountered our fate for the rest of the day; lots of mosquitoes and bushwacking. Having never done the Mountaineer creek schwack prior to this year, and now having done it three times in the past few months, it feels to me to be a sort of rite of passage of Cascades climbing. At least I know now where the "faint trail" is which makes the going easier. After making sure Nate didn't lead us up Sherpa, we emerged from the schwack into the endless sea of slide alder and talus below Argonaut's north flanks. We picked a line that would get us quickly through our green hell and onto rock, however loose, that would take us to snow. Much slipping, fighting, bleeding, and cursing happened over the next half an hour, but soon we were on scree, nursing wounds and swatting mosquitoes. "I guess I won't be able to wear a skirt to work on Monday" Nate said, looking at our slashed up legs. [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/528667_10151129485737682_361004058_n.jpg[/img] Talus and alder Up the talus, over some fun slabs and up the snow to the notch below the arete. We set up camp and enjoyed the warm night and the sunset over Stuart. [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/625595_10151129485977682_1809214325_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/484410_10151129486202682_769797808_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557362_10151129486247682_1927135811_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/480324_10151129486552682_1073798607_n.jpg[/img] A little bedtime reading We woke up the next morning at 500 with camp packed up and were moving by 530. After the first pitch we realized that we were not on route. Confident we could get back from the belay, Nate set off in search of the crest of the arete and some big ledges we could see. Conferring at the next belay, we figured we were somewhere in the middle of pitch 2. Good to be back on route and easy terrain, we blasted up the climb in short order. [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/417315_10151129486802682_1793170847_n.jpg[/img] A few pitches up [img:center]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/190003_10151129487262682_1209497055_n.jpg[/img] The weather was great but we were happy to be in the shade Beckey calls the route a 5.6, but it may be a little sandbagged in my opinion. The last pitch definitely felt harder than a 6. Maybe it was due to carrying camp over, or maybe I just suck at climbing. Once on the summit we were greeted by a swarm of black flying ants. Sweet! At least they kept the mosquitoes away. We also found a little care package for us left by some friends who were climbing the peak by the south route. Thanks so much! In it were a box of gummy peach rings. [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/189453_10151129487392682_1825989116_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/297609_10151129488067682_232230053_n.jpg[/img] Summit shot After quickly consuming the peach rings and getting a nice sugar buzz going, we headed out. Scramble down the east ridge and onto the NE snowslope looking for rap slings. 4 raps down a gully system put us back on walkable ground. We had decided the previous night to traverse over to the Colechuck glacier rather than descending the A-C col and schwacking out Mountaineer Creek again. The way was snow free and pretty easy terrain to move over. It's very pretty back there! [img:center]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/319420_10151129488232682_763002778_n.jpg[/img] Ridge to Colechuck and Dragontail off in the distance [img:center]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/580758_10151129488262682_1966327394_n.jpg[/img] Argonaut from below the D-C col Made it to the glacier in about an hour. The glacier wasn't glissadable and was mostly ice, so out came the crampons and we picked our way down back to the trail. On the way down, a refrigerator sized boulder fell off the face of D-tail and came cartwheeling past me about 15 ft away. Luckily Pierre was far enough ahead that I was able to yell and give him enough warning to dodge the bowling ball. Close call. We kept one eye on the face the rest of the way down. Once back on trail, we booked it out of there, excited to get the shoes off our feet and away from the still hungry mosquitoes. Back at the cars around 2000 and in Leavenworth grabbing some mexican food shortly after. Gear Notes: Small rack to 2" Approach Notes: Snow free until 6400'. Schwack your way there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Would this route still go deep into Sept? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 Would this route still go deep into Sept? Possibly. The snow in the approach gully makes getting to the bivy pretty simple. I'm not sure how much it will be melted out in September. There was still a decent amount of snow in it while we were there, so it may stick around. I'm sure you could make it go regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Seems lots of stuff comes tumbling off that area below Dragontail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Would this route still go deep into Sept? Bill Wicheta and I climbed this route August 25/26 and found it in prime condition. We encountered a second party ascending as we were descending. In my opinion, the limiting factor would be the snow/ice access to the arete proper, and that is pretty well shaded. I would not anticipate major melt out now that cooler temps are here. I should think late September, or even October, or any time up to serious snow, would be fun. Late winter / spring, when the slide-alder-approach is under snow, might be even better. Good bivvy sites are ubiquitous along the arete proper, so shorter days need not be an issue, long as you allow time for groveling in the slide-alder on the approach... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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