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[TR] Mount Buckner - South East Ridge 7/30/2012


Verticolorful

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I thought it would be cool to do a climb from the Stehekin area, so I asked my buddy Blake for some beta on his old stomping grounds. He suggested doing the SE ridge of Buckner. The first line on his email read something like "If your looking for solid rock this is not the route for you"... Not letting choss discourage me from an adventure I rounded up my buddy Eric, filled him in on beta and we started packing the bags.

 

We sped the whole way from Leavy to Chelan to catch the boat, and we were the last people to board. We were STOKED to be on the boat heading to the North Cascades from the beautiful town of Stehekin. We cough the bus and rode it as far as it would take us then began our 14 mile approach. We camped in 5 mile camp that night and caught a gimps of our route right before dark.

 

The morning started early and I noticed it was not particularly warm for a day late July. We avoided harsh bushwacking by staying on the south side of the creek soon after leaving the trail. The route was a super fun adventure and provided amazing views (when the clouds provide them) in a wild North Cascade setting. Rock quality was not the best but became a little better as we got higher. We followed the path of least resistance as much time as possible and only had to rope up for about 400 feet. We started the ridge at 8:30 and summited at 4:15.

 

We chose to descend back down across the Glacier to the north of the SE ridge. After down scrambling for a while we came to a rap station where the glacier meets the lowest point of rock. After using this to cross the crevasse we walked back to our tent before dark.

 

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Edited by Verticolorful
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