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#1075224 - 07/10/12 03:08 PM [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012
bonathanjarrett Offline
member

Registered: 01/29/05
Posts: 183
TRs: 20 Photos: 129
Trip: - Torment-Forbidden Traverse

Date: 7/8/2012

Trip Report:
Partner and I banged out the T-F traverse on Monday, after an amazing lightning show over J-Berg for most the night. We found good conditions, minimal route finding issues, and patient parties on the West Ridge that allowed us to nicely play through both going up and going down.

There is plenty of beta floating around already, so I will just give you what you came for: pics.

Torment From Afar


Conditions at the base of the SE Face


Climbing above the moat onto the SE Face


Traversing 4th Class


Traversing Steep Snow




Getting back on the rock


Traversing the sidewalk (caught the theme yet?)


Summit of Forbidden


Descending from the West Ridge of Forbidden

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#1075330 - 07/11/12 10:44 AM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
Bronco Offline
Deskjockey

Registered: 02/16/01
Posts: 3516
TRs: 14 Photos: 111
Loc: Port Gardner, WA
Originally Posted By: bonathanjarrett
caught the theme yet?

Photos of me catching my breath? laf

Here’s a longer version –

Jonathan and I met in Everett Sunday afternoon intending to climb Torment and descend to the first bivy site at the Torment Col and then complete the traverse to Forbidden on Monday. With a clear sky, and wanting to pack light, we only brought sleeping bags and pads, no shelter.

Upon arriving at Boston Basin less hydrated (it was hot!) and not as early as we’d planned, we prudently decided to camp there overnight and make a 3 am departure for Torment. Thunder and lightning started just after dark, putting on a show over Johannesburg and reinforcing the intimidating nature of that mountain. Rain started pelting our down bags sometime after midnight and continued until 4:00am. While snuggled into my damp bag, I thought the day was shot and we’d probably slog out after dawn or at best, salvage a climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden if the weather had improved. At 4:30 we realized the sky had completely cleared and after a quick breakfast, were on the approach to the ridge.

We chatted about the potentially revised agenda and talked through the different factors, (route conditions, team, did our wardrobe match, weather, etc.) eventually deciding to stick with our original plan despite concerns of a late start and not having matching gaiters. rolleyes We reached the head of the Taboo Glacier at about 6:30 am and Jonathan launched over the schrund and up the South East face of Torment, reaching the summit by 8:30, setting the prompt pace for the rest of the day. With the register quickly signed, we carefully down climbed to the Col and made the rap onto the north side of the ridge. Jonathan improvised a fireman’s rap for me so I wouldn’t have to attempt the dyno tool stick shock that he skillfully performed to snag the lip of the glacier from the overhanging rock face. I don’t consider myself a complete slouch but my partner for this climb was incredibly fit and competent, graciously allowing me to draft behind him and really enjoy the route.

From there, the route is pretty straightforward, there are a lot of options that seem feasible, some just more efficient than others. We made a lot of snow/rock transitions and with the soft snow, crampons weren’t really necessary for much of the climb. I sure appreciated the security of two tools on the “steep snow traverse”. The quality of the rock improves as the traverse progresses and eventually the intermittent snow gave way to pleasant ridge running on dry rock.

We reached the West Ridge Col sometime around noon and after a quick break, continued climbing (incorporating a sit start) up the enjoyable west ridge, keeping one or two pieces between us, flipping the rope behind horns and flakes, only stopping when Jonathan ran low on gear and to give me a formal belay at the “crux” 5.6 move. Encountering two other parties on the West ridge that graciously allowed us to squeeze by; we summited and returned to the Col by 2:30 pm, down climbed the West Ridge Couloir and back to Boston Basin by 4:30 pm.

We gladly drank a bunch of water upon reaching the slabs above camp as I had underestimated my stove fuel and had only consumed about 3 liters of water each throughout the day, attempting to augment hydration by eating snow while on the move. I estimate that I lost 7-8 lbs of water weight during the day and experienced crazy old man cramps in my hands like never before. cry If Jonathan was hurting, it never showed.

As reputed, this is a very enjoyable route that is reasonable to do in a long day from Boston Basin although I can see why most prefer to bivy on the ridge. It’s a great position, ample of water sources and plenty of good platforms. We finished the day at the BBQ Caboose in Marblemount, good food after an awesome day with a great partner in the North Cascades. moondance



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#1075338 - 07/11/12 11:16 AM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
rob Offline
sprayer

Registered: 07/27/06
Posts: 8669
TRs: 17 Photos: 88
Loc: Seattle
That snow traverse looks pretty tame compared to photos I've seen of it late season. eek Looks like you guys had a great trip!

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#1075350 - 07/11/12 01:24 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: rob]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2605
TRs: 99 Photos: 1575
Loc: Mount Vernon
Awesome work! I was wondering about you guys when the T-storms rolled thru the Skagit Sunday night. I'm glad you weren't up on the ridge, though it sounds like it was mainly over J-Berg? You also avoided death by snaffle, which is a real possibility if you camp just before the snow traverse. Just ask the runningdog...

That is a classic trip, glad it worked out!
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#1075372 - 07/11/12 03:45 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
counterfeitfake Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 06/10/05
Posts: 1644
TRs: 12 Photos: 11
Loc: in ur base
Nice!

Most parties seem to go from Torment to Forbidden, but I have wondered about the idea of climbing the E Ridge of Forbidden to start the traverse, and then going from Forbidden to Torment. Seems like a more aesthetic route, since it has no backtracking.

I guess it might be a bummer to watch rock quality deteriorate for the whole time between peaks, and maybe the descent down Torment is not so great?

What do you think?
_________________________
That's all I can think of, but I'm sure there's something else...

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#1075385 - 07/11/12 04:42 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: counterfeitfake]
Bronco Offline
Deskjockey

Registered: 02/16/01
Posts: 3516
TRs: 14 Photos: 111
Loc: Port Gardner, WA
Finding a route up onto Torment could be tricky.

There's a bunch of rap stations coming down the SE Face of Torment, but it is a chossy place to be pulling ropes. Not sure I'd want to descend that way. You might be able to down climb the South Ridge with one rap.

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#1075393 - 07/11/12 06:23 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
rob Offline
sprayer

Registered: 07/27/06
Posts: 8669
TRs: 17 Photos: 88
Loc: Seattle
I've down climbed torment after getting injured, it pretty much sucked ass

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#1075405 - 07/11/12 08:45 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: rob]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2605
TRs: 99 Photos: 1575
Loc: Mount Vernon
I'd recommend the east ledges descent on Forbidden. It is much faster than down climbing the west ridge and makes for a full traverse experience. It is nice to finish with the stellar rock on the west ridge too, and descending Torment isn't as nice as descending Forbidden, having done both.
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#1075418 - 07/11/12 11:59 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: JasonG]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1701
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
i would not recommend the east ledges descent when the west ridge couloir is still a go. loose, dirty, and generally unpleasant IMO.

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#1075424 - 07/12/12 08:05 AM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: rob]
Bronco Offline
Deskjockey

Registered: 02/16/01
Posts: 3516
TRs: 14 Photos: 111
Loc: Port Gardner, WA
Originally Posted By: rob
I've down climbed torment after getting injured, it pretty much sucked ass


What the heck happened?

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#1075436 - 07/12/12 10:30 AM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: JasonG]
counterfeitfake Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 06/10/05
Posts: 1644
TRs: 12 Photos: 11
Loc: in ur base
Originally Posted By: JasonG
I'd recommend the east ledges descent on Forbidden. It is much faster than down climbing the west ridge and makes for a full traverse experience. It is nice to finish with the stellar rock on the west ridge too, and descending Torment isn't as nice as descending Forbidden, having done both.


For those competent enough to do the T-F traverse, the east ledges are reasonable, but I still think they suck pretty bad. Loose, shitty, unprotectable, nervewracking. I do agree it is cool as far as taking your route clear around the mountain. YMMV!
_________________________
That's all I can think of, but I'm sure there's something else...

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#1075549 - 07/13/12 01:12 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: Bronco]
Juan Sharp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 57
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Bronco, where did you hang your food? Any trees in the basin? I hear there's bears up there.

Your law-abiding pal,

Juan

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#1075554 - 07/13/12 01:42 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: bonathanjarrett]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2563
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Bear canisters are the only NPS approved option these days...a bother on technical climbing for sure, especially given that bears will not be up on the T-F Traverse (or Jberg, NR Forbidden, etc). Rodents on the other hand...

You can suggest comments to the NPS for on-route/uber-high bivy food securing options: noca_wilderness@nps.gov

Thanks for the tracks, BTW. tup

Quoted document below
-------

Backcountry Food Storage: Update of Policy, April 2012

To protect visitors and wildlife and to provide for clear food storage
direction, during 2011 the National Park Service proposed phasing in the
mandatory use of approved portable hard-sided food storage canisters for
certain areas (not the entire park) by 2012. During the summer of 2011,
however, many issues were raised that do not yet have resolution (for
example, the efficacy of Ursack products, electric fences, etc.). Some of
these issues are currently being researched and tested, and thus
implementation of canister requirements are being delayed until there is
greater clarification and resolution on these issues.

Thus, park regulations for proper food storage remain unchanged. Currently
there are only two approved methods for storing your food and scented items
in the backcountry: hanging (minimum 10 feet off the ground, 4 feet from
any tree limb or trunk) or using an approved hard-sided container. Ursacks
and electric fences are not currently approved as proper food storage
devices on their own. Ursack products have been shown to fail with both
bears and rodents. The latest Ursack model, with aluminum liner, is being
considered for approval, as are electric fences, but neither method is
approved at this time. There are many camping areas where it is either
exceedingly difficult or completely impossible to hang food properly. In
many of these areas food storage violations have resulted in wildlife that
is becoming conditioned to human food. Proper food storage in the
wilderness is essential to safeguarding the health and safety of visitors
and wildlife, and is crucial to maintaining the park’s wilderness
character. Human food is an attractive source of calories for many animals,
including rodents, marmots, goats, bears, deer, etc.

Areas under consideration for mandatory food storage canisters include:
Desolation, Fireweed, Fisher, Hooter, Junction, Monogram, North Fork,
Pierce Mountain, Sahale Glacier, Sourdough, Thornton Lakes, Thunder Basin,
Trapper Inlet, and Whatcom camps as well as Boston Basin, Hidden Lake, and
Tapto cross-country zones. These areas have been selected for one or more
of the following factors: 1) hanging food is either very difficult or
impossible due to the nature of the vegetation or lack of trees suitable
for hanging; 2) wildlife have obtained food from a hang and have become
human-food-conditioned, making hanging food risky and merely a delaying
mechanism; and 3) presence of bears and/or other wildlife is high.

To provide feedback or to discuss comments, questions or concerns, please
contact the Wilderness Information Center at (360) 854-7245 or email
noca_wilderness@nps.gov.
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#1075555 - 07/13/12 01:52 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: kurthicks]
bonathanjarrett Offline
member

Registered: 01/29/05
Posts: 183
TRs: 20 Photos: 129
Juan,

In abiding by my light and fast ethic, we didn't eat in order to cut pack weight so deterring bears, rodents, etc was a non-issue.


Edited by bonathanjarrett (07/13/12 01:53 PM)

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#1075858 - 07/16/12 12:37 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: kurthicks]
Bronco Offline
Deskjockey

Registered: 02/16/01
Posts: 3516
TRs: 14 Photos: 111
Loc: Port Gardner, WA
While checking in at the Marblemount Ranger Station, I overheard that they've done away with the climbing registration book. Now you should leave your itinerary with family/friends along with the phone number for the climbing rangers.

Speaking of that,there were a couple of rescues this weekend:

http://www.komonews.com/news/local/4-inj...-162531766.html

Juan: I thought those blue bags the rangers give you were for storing food. Remember we found some full of Baby Ruth candy bars and napkins in the creek up on Mt. Baker? anger

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#1075894 - 07/16/12 02:39 PM Re: [TR] - Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/8/2012 [Re: Bronco]
goatboy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/01
Posts: 1929
TRs: 33 Photos: 376
Loc: Waiting for high pressure
I heard that they're still doing the voluntary climber registration, but as part of your permit process -- no longer a check-out,check-back-in self service book.
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Falling!

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