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#1067699 - 05/10/12 10:59 AM [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1377
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
Trip: 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge

Date: 5/6/2012

Trip Report:
Some buddies were going to climb 3 Finger Jack and Mt Washington in a weekend and I signed on last minute to climb 3FJ with them. I'd done it in summer once and hated it, but was willing to give it another go with snow cover. I must say, it was much more pleasurable to climb this mountain on snow rather than scree... I volunteered for the crawl, and was rather pleased with myself at the end of the lead. That was a new level of focus and consequence in climbing for me. I have only dabbled briefly (and on toprope) with climbing on rock/mixed terrain in crampons before this and was nervous but pulled through just fine. Having climbed the crawl before, it was helpful to know the holds were there, and large, I just had to find them under the snow and ice. The approach and descent were pleasant too- it is much nicer skiing/skinning through that burn when it is snow covered than hiking it in the summer heat. Photos are taken by myself and two others, and edited by myself.
























Edited by 111 (05/10/12 11:04 AM)
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#1067700 - 05/10/12 11:06 AM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 15373
TRs: 111 Photos: 1634
Loc: Oceania
looks way kewler in those conditions smile
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#1067701 - 05/10/12 11:08 AM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1377
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
agreed. The snow sitting on the ledges of the main summit group gives it a much less chossy/junkpile look.
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"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."

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#1067706 - 05/10/12 11:56 AM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
mountainmatt Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/06
Posts: 1124
TRs: 26 Photos: 259
Loc: Bwoooston
Very nice! The snow conditions must have made the traverse and final pitch fun! brew


.
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Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.

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#1067711 - 05/10/12 01:01 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
tup tup good stuff Ian! Wish I coulda been ther!

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#1067713 - 05/10/12 01:11 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
Tyson.g Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/07/10
Posts: 980
TRs: 7 Photos: 133
Loc: Bellingham
Cool pics man.
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#1067721 - 05/10/12 03:03 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1377
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
the traverse wasn't too bad. I think before this last storm it was bare rock because I was just scraping unconsolidated snow off the usual holds. only needed the ice tool a couple times. It just took a lot of focus to keep digging until a real hold presented itself. Tyler, it was last minute planned, but I kept thinking how it woulda been nice to have a flyover at the right time... smile
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"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."

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#1067848 - 05/11/12 11:53 AM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
Water Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/12/09
Posts: 1185
TRs: 7 Photos: 171
Loc: pdx
very cool! thanks for sharing.. i have camped atop maxwell butte in winter and looked at the wonder west side of 3fj..with lots of avalanches fields at the bottom.

congrats on the success!
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#1067869 - 05/11/12 02:25 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: 111
the traverse wasn't too bad. I think before this last storm it was bare rock because I was just scraping unconsolidated snow off the usual holds. only needed the ice tool a couple times. It just took a lot of focus to keep digging until a real hold presented itself. Tyler, it was last minute planned, but I kept thinking how it woulda been nice to have a flyover at the right time... smile


Bummer, yeah we where up soaking up sun on Rooster Rock. I flew by the next afternoon but no one was out climbing TFJ that day. Really nice job stepping it up dude, major stoke! tup tup tup tup tup tup tup tup tup

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#1067893 - 05/11/12 06:29 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3412
TRs: 60 Photos: 589
Loc: Seattle!
Very nice trip report, thanks for putting that together!
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#1067909 - 05/11/12 08:22 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: Water]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1377
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
Originally Posted By: Water
very cool! thanks for sharing.. i have camped atop maxwell butte in winter and looked at the wonder west side of 3fj..with lots of avalanches fields at the bottom.

congrats on the success!


Steve heard one peel off around 9 or 10am but we couldn't figure out where it went.
_________________________
"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."

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#1067965 - 05/12/12 11:09 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
123tom Offline
n00b

Registered: 02/16/12
Posts: 44
TRs: 6 Photos: 9
Loc: Washington
awesome shoots!
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#1068532 - 05/17/12 11:06 AM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
ScaredSilly Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 961
TRs: 8 Photos: 25
Loc: Ootah, USA
Nice shots, the rime looks fun. Probably much of it is gone with the nice weather this week.

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#1068552 - 05/17/12 01:25 PM Re: [TR] 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge 5/6/2012 [Re: 111]
Xerinae Offline
n00b

Registered: 01/19/11
Posts: 48
TRs: 0 Photos: 34
Loc: Anchorage, AK
Great photos! 3FJ in the snow/winter/early season has been on my list for a while...mainly for the unique photo ops, nicely done!
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