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#1039670 - 10/26/11 10:44 PM [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2567
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Trip: Mix-up Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA)

Date: 10/25/2011

Trip Report:
Yesterday Forest McBrian, Dave Jordan, and I established a new line on Mixup Peak in North Cascades National Park. The route climbs the northeast face of the north summit and is partially visible from Cascade Pass. We had spotted the seasonal line last week while climbing on Sahale Peak and hoped that the weather would hold out long enough so we could sneak in an ascent. Fortunately the weather was with us and we had clear and cold temperatures immediately following a brief warm spell that included rain up high--this created perfect conditions on the climb.

The line climbs the center of the North Face.


Approaching the route (in upper right corner)




The route begins in a narrow gully that sits about 60 meters east of the obvious couloir that splits the face ( 2004 TR for that line). The first pitch set the tone for the route with excellent sticks in perfect snice, but a dearth of protection opportunities. Each of the following eight pitches were all rope stretching pitches, totaling almost 1800’ of climbing on the face. This route was both longer and more difficult than we had anticipated and is unusually sustained for a Cascades line--only two pitches didn’t have 55 degree or steeper terrain and all of them went straight up without any side-to-side deviation (except pitch two which moves about 15 meters right at mid-height). The belays were all sheltered from icefall, but close enough for good photos!

Pitch one


Pitch three (one of the easy pitches)


Pitch four


We found the crux to be surmounting a roof draped with icicles on pitch five and agreed that the pitch was undoubtedly the best pitch any of us had ever climbed in the mountains. Forest led it in impeccable style. Above the crux was an incredible ice chimney that led to yet another ice pitch and, finally, a short snow slope to the crest.

Pitch 5 crux


Following pitch 5 (Cascade Pass trail in upper left)


Following pitch 5's ice chimney


Pitch 7


Following pitch 7


The technical climbing ended at a small notch in the summit ridge where we took in an incredible view of Johannesberg and Formidable in amazing evening alpenglow. It was a perfect day in the mountains.




Gear Notes:
Knifeblades (4-6)
Cams (purple TCU to 3”), doubles to 1”
2-6 short screws
70m ropes, two ropes recommended in case of retreat.

Approach Notes:
Hike to Cascade Pass. Follow the trail onto Mixup Arm. The route starts about 60M east of the prominent couloir. It lies above a remnant snowfield that is obvious on the USGS map. An easy 2.5 hours to the base.

Descent Notes:
From the crest of the ridge at the notch, traverse on the west side of the ridge southwards towards the south/true summit for about two rope-lengths on shattered rock. Gain the first obvious notch and continue past it to the second notch. The rock quality in the second notch is noticeably better than along the crest. From here, we down-climbed the East Face to the Cache Glacier on steep snow to 55 degrees. Rappelling may be necessary in other conditions. From the Cache Glacier, traverse north and west around Mixup Arm and back to Cascade Pass. Here is a modified Scurlock photo ( original) showing the east face. We downclimbed just west/left of the ridge that lies just right of the center of the photo.

Special Notes:
We found that the route gets a tiny bit of sun until about eleven in the morning. Small amounts of spindrift and ice chunks came down during that time, but after the sun moved further south the debris stopped.

Due to the exceedingly compact nature of the rock, anchoring options were extremely limited and much time was spent finding anchors that frequently (and unfortunately) verged on being inadequate. Although we managed with 60m ropes, we strongly recommend bringing 70m ropes to potentially give more options for finding belay anchors.

Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding
IV, AI4R, M4
2200’ of climbing
Kurt Hicks, Dave Jordan, Forest McBrian
October 25, 2011
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#1039674 - 10/26/11 10:49 PM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 17069
TRs: 112 Photos: 1037
Loc: Above Treeline
rawk :drool: brew tup
_________________________
49% Motherfucker - 51% Son of a Bitch

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#1039680 - 10/27/11 12:18 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 7497
TRs: 39 Photos: 811
Loc: Sandy, UT
and that's why the cascades kick ass!

Nice find and send!!!

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#1039681 - 10/27/11 12:52 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
Dannible Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/26/06
Posts: 573
TRs: 8 Photos: 156
Loc: Der Town
Very cool. When you say this is a seasonal line you mean because the road will close? I know it's subject to change but how far were you guys able to drive?
_________________________
www.danhilden.com

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#1039685 - 10/27/11 06:07 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
JensHolsten Offline
member

Registered: 12/17/03
Posts: 191
TRs: 2 Photos: 8
Yeah guys! Way to go...so cool!

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#1039686 - 10/27/11 06:14 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
ZimZam Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/01/05
Posts: 1876
TRs: 1 Photos: 61
Loc: Zion
Wow Kurt. Keep on a rockin'! Big Ups! tup tup

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#1039687 - 10/27/11 06:16 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
genepires Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 3807
TRs: 8 Photos: 59
Loc: sharing-hood
great job gentlemen! Local boys doing good.
_________________________
snatching defeat from the jaws of victory

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#1039688 - 10/27/11 06:23 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
AJScott Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/19/04
Posts: 290
TRs: 8 Photos: 50
Loc: Leaventucky
Awsome guys! To fa's in October to kick off the season! Hellyeah!

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#1039701 - 10/27/11 08:44 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: Dannible]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2567
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: Dannible
Very cool. When you say this is a seasonal line you mean because the road will close? I know it's subject to change but how far were you guys able to drive?


It's seasonal in that the route gets at least partially buried once more snow falls (Mix-up picture from Feb 2010); this will decrease the uniqueness of the climb and probably complicate finding suitable anchors too.

Access will also surely change when the road closes...we drove to the trailhead and hiked to Cascade Pass in tennis shoes!
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#1039702 - 10/27/11 09:00 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
Pete_H Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/20/09
Posts: 2783
TRs: 7 Photos: 188
Loc: Der
Nice job guys. Looks neat. Good work finding such a long and sustained route.

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#1039703 - 10/27/11 09:03 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1474
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Sick!

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#1039709 - 10/27/11 09:12 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
G-spotter Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 15226
TRs: 57 Photos: 412
Loc: free range
Looks very Scottish, except for the length that is.
_________________________
Bagging a cougar is one of the most enjoyable sporting feats a young man can accomplish

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#1039710 - 10/27/11 09:19 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4092
TRs: 19 Photos: 64
Bang up job! I have been telling everyone who will listen for the past decade that Cascade Pass is the place for late fall/early winter alpinism.
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1039716 - 10/27/11 09:38 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
spionin Offline
the reverend

Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 478
TRs: 26 Photos: 443
Loc: seattle, wa
"perfect day" indeed!
looks awesome!
_________________________
mountain softwoman

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#1039718 - 10/27/11 09:45 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
Rad Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2461
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
rocken rawk
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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#1039728 - 10/27/11 10:07 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4092
TRs: 19 Photos: 64
Any photos of NE Buttress of J'Berg?
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1039736 - 10/27/11 10:36 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
Dan_Miller Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/29/06
Posts: 445
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Seattle/Heronwood
It does appear that there are lines (great lines, even if ephemeral) yet to climb. Way to do'er guys!
_________________________
'What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above.'

Rene Daumal

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#1039739 - 10/27/11 10:43 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
Choada_Boy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/05/05
Posts: 2432
TRs: 4 Photos: 39
Loc: Your Mom's House
Killer!!

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#1039744 - 10/27/11 11:17 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 824
TRs: 26 Photos: 593
Loc: Seatte, WA
so many gems still waiting in the cascades. way to prove that point. looks like a gem thats for sure.

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#1039792 - 10/27/11 06:08 PM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
NoahT Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/05
Posts: 211
TRs: 5 Photos: 68
Loc: Seattle
You must have spyed something else whilst climbing this...I won't ask what, but looking forward to reading about it!

Nice job!

N

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#1039802 - 10/27/11 08:44 PM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: NoahT]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1707
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
Hell yeah guys! Awesome looking route. BOOM!!

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#1039820 - 10/28/11 01:11 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: Sol]
Dane Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 3097
TRs: 12 Photos: 138
Loc: Issaquah
ROCK on guys! Nice line!
_________________________
www.coldthistle.blogspot.com

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#1039823 - 10/28/11 06:16 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
rat Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/20/01
Posts: 600
TRs: 13 Photos: 17
very nice.

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#1039826 - 10/28/11 07:19 AM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: kurthicks]
Mattski Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 38
TRs: 0 Photos: 8
Loc: Seattle,WA
Awesome discovery and send!
_________________________
Matt S.

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#1039883 - 10/28/11 01:18 PM Re: [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011 [Re: Mattski]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 172
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
Awesome, Dudes!!
Why "The Misunderstanding"? Y'all seem to have understood the route perfectly: Saw it / Want it / Sent it :-)
_________________________
...What's the worst that can happen?

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