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[TR] Smith Rocks - 10/10/2011


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Trip: Smith Rocks -

 

Date: 10/10/2011

 

Trip Report:

My posse of old fart Tenino quarry climbers made a three day weekend of it at Smith, along with 75% of all the climbers in Oregon, a bazillion family hikers, a smattering of Canadians on Thanksgiving holiday, and even a contingent from the military. Nothing of note happened, but I thought I'd throw in a few pictures for entertainment sake, all us wet siders are going to miss the sunny days.

 

We drove down Saturday morning and set off for Koala Rock for a little casual warm up in a more remote and secluded location. Hah, that's old news.

 

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We were greeted by 20 climbers (yes, I counted) and at least six dogs, and clouds of people going up and down Thin Air, throwing ropes on each other, climbing through other's belays, and doing some sketchy things I couldn't bear to watch. Of course, if you walk out there, you're gonna climb something, and we did a couple fun easy slab pitches and Round River with the direct finish.

 

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The Mighty Wombat

 

One of our trio forgot the second rope, but the 3 short pitches lent themselves to half a rope each and it all worked out.

 

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Nice view of all the parked cars from the top of Koala Rock

 

We happily marched back, down the hill, around the river bend, up the hill and back to the Bivouac Area where we'd decided to stay. What with the advent of paid camping at lovely Skull Hollow, the cost difference just didn't seem worth the drive. Also, there's a bouldering structure at the Bivy Area! It took me a little bit to notice that it was modeled on the Monkey Face.

 

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Now, this is what brings the crowds to Smith I'm sure!

 

Day two saw us wandering about snatching what was available. We had an agenda, but it became clear that holding to a plan was inferior on such a busy weekend. Wandering up towards Red Wall, the side by side routes Honeypot and Teddy Bear's provided a great reintroduction to Smith nubbin tuggin'.

 

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Wandering further, one of our members got to satisfy their desire for a grudge match with the diminutive Dances with Clams, another route that was available with no waiting.

 

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There was a steady stream of people along all the trails, but the marching Army Ants were pretty entertaining.

 

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We flitted along, filling out our day with some more pitches, first further towards Red Wall then back towards Morning Glory as the crowds began their Sunday afternoon departure. We headed up a little before dark, then off to the Depot for dinner. Later we crawled into our tents, lulled by rising wind, hooting owls, goose calls, lowing cows, and the patter of rain drops.

 

The next morning was pretty wet, and still raining, so we headed in to Terrebonne for breakfast, contemplating bailing for home. As we ate though, some blue holes appeared to the west and the rain stopped. Killed a little time in the climbing shop, then we headed back to the park and gazed down at the empty walls. Things seemed to be drying, so we headed down.

 

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What's missing in this picture? Oh yeah, all the people. I've never climbed on this wall due to the constant circus, but today it was all ours for the taking. The sun came out, and I was sure I heard munchkins singing.

 

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The other two folks from Oly who were part of the crew even got on Magic Light with no waiting and no audience. It was almost like time travel, with only the platforms and fences to show we were in post population boom Smith Rocks.

 

We made for the rim at 1:00, home by 6:00, pretty damned contented from a great casual weekend out.

 

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...throwing ropes on each other, climbing through other's belays, and doing some sketchy things I couldn't bear to watch...

Would be classic if it weren't really that scary - or maybe you're just spoiled from climbing in the hyper-competent atmosphere of your own backyard...

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