SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Trip: Mt. Stuart - West Ridge Date: 9/24/2011 Trip Report: Climbed Mt. Stuart's wonderful West Ridge on Saturday on an absolutely stellar (and windy!) fall day. [ All posted photos here ] Sleep was a bit short due to being totally jacked for the event, but I got going from the car at 5:30am wearing my vest and wondering if I should have brought gloves. The worries dissipated quickly though as I approached Ingalls Pass treated to a crescent moonrise over the Teenaway ridge. Saw a mama goat and kid 20 feet from a climbers camp near Ingalls Lake and got a bit of scrambling warmup going around the lake itself. Loaded the water vessels at the lake (3L). Stuart Pass was windy as all getout but the birds were flying over it anyway. There were several goats on the lower west ridge but I avoided these, traversing over to the westernmost continuous gulley (as Beckey describes it) before heading up. One of the finest mostly scramble routes I know of followed. And this time, a couple of photos in particular served me right, both from Cascade Climbers. Once showed the 5th and 4th class options just below Long John Tower. Saw a pair of climbers here (first people since the parking lot) roping up for the 5th class. Happily (and quickly!) I went right and was soon in the sunshine. Saw another party of three here, traversing the slopes toward the summit block. I chowed a bit and 'geared up', which meant putting on my harness and minimal gear. Studied the summit block a bit too which was where the second fore mentioned photo came in handy (this one posted by Bug -- thank you!). At the base of the summit block, I met the threesome, a very friendly Seattle/Portland team, and sat with them a bit. A couple of them, Pacman and Moonlight, are CascadeClimbers. They had a windy bivy the night prior in the west ridge gulley and were pretty stoked to have such a fine day. And I was also psyched to have gotten there at 11:30am just 1/2 hour beyond my target, but definitely in the green light means go zone. They were headed out onto the north face and I headed up Bug's pink line on the west side. An this begins with undoubtedly the most gripping moves of the entire climb--a crazy step across over big air. I wonder if sometime that block will go...I mean, it feels solid, but shit if you don't think about it goin... The summit block went really well following Bug's line. I didn't break out the rope I brought, but I did use the "tiger tails" technique Gordy Skoog turned me onto in a couple places and was on top about noon. Such a fine climb! The route down the Cascadian was long but after dealing with my feet a bit not so bad. Met a bunch of cool people including oddly enough this pair coming up to retrieve backpacks from below the snowfield below the false summit. They had been helicoptered off the peak in a blackhawk at midnight after one of them had slipped down the snowfield crashing into rocks below...couldn't believe the dude was hiking up again 2 weeks later (not sure he could believe either). Took a really refreshing dip in Ingalls Creek before hobbling up and over Longs Pass. Coming down the trail, running now a bit with joy and sunshine and gravity, I had the honor and surprise to pass Fred Beckey and a few friends coming down from Longs Pass. I have been reading Challenge of the North Cascades again of late and I wanted to tell him thank you for your climbs and your books, but this was in hindsight. So here's to unvanquished energy and pursuing always that which sparks fire to your heart and soul. Gear Notes: 5.10 Camp Four shoes, trekking pole, "tiger tails", a lot of water, GU, and a primo italiano hoagie from Safeway. Approach Notes: Don't stop too much or for very long... Edited September 30, 2011 by SmilingWhiteKnuckles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SExNW Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 What an excellent day. Congrats. Could you describe the rabbit ears you speak of? From your pic, they look akin to spinner leashes for ice tools (without the "spinning" part). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Apologize. These are called tiger tails (I will edit this). Basically they are two lengths of rope (longer and dynamic rope ideally I suppose). Place a piece above you, make the move, place another piece and take out the lower. Obviously, this system is pretty limited, but it worked for me on this route. Edited September 26, 2011 by SmilingWhiteKnuckles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Apologize. These are called tiger tails (I will edit this). Basically they are two lengths of rope (longer and dynamic rope ideally I suppose). Place a piece above you, make the move, place another piece and take out the lower. Obviously, this system is pretty limited, but it worked for me on this route. I recall some Yosemite big wall speed climbers using a similar system of three daisys to aid solo without a rope belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 It looks like the slings in the photo making up the tiger tails are all static ? They make specialized via ferrata gear that could be modified slightly that would give some dynamic braking in the event of a fall....falling on static slings is likely to be pretty harsh, though you probably wouldn't die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 It was great meeting you on the cliff-side! Beautiful day to be up on the mountain, our first time on the West Ridge. Here's a couple of pics that we took of ya. A little like where's waldo - you're up in the top middle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 Thanks for the photos! I have one or two more of you all I can send. Will send you a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Glad you got out and got some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) Cool climb, way to make it happen! I think your tied lanyards are more commonly called cowstails. Rope access techs use them in place of daisy chains or runners. They always constructed with dynamic rope. Here's a shot of mine. Edited October 1, 2011 by lancegranite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 It looks like the slings in the photo making up the tiger tails are all static ? They make specialized via ferrata gear that could be modified slightly that would give some dynamic braking in the event of a fall....falling on static slings is likely to be pretty harsh, though you probably wouldn't die. Actually you very well might die! See the second paragraph in this link Anchors Away. If you don't have a rope to cut up BW makes some real nice dynamic prusik cord in 7mm and 8mm thickness that could do the trick. No intent to bash Mr Knuckles, his techniques or his TR. You seem like a righteous dude and your TRs are always a pleasure this one included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowell_Skoog Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Actually you very well might die! See the second paragraph in this link Anchors Away. If you don't have a rope to cut up BW makes some real nice dynamic prusik cord in 7mm and 8mm thickness that could do the trick. Yeah, that Anchors Away article in Climbing magazine was the scariest thing I've read in a while. I've been using dyneema runners to clip in to rappel anchors and the article describes all sorts of nasty consequences if you fall on one of those things without a dynamic link in the chain. I need to change my habits. It seems like a soloing system should definitely use dynamic components. A via ferrata rig would be ideal, maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 JasonG, lancegranite, dberdinka, Lowell, The comments on the system are much appreciated. I've never used any kind of system on a solo climb before (except to get down!) so this discussion has been edifying. If I use it again, I'll certainly cut some appropriate length of dynamic rope... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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