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[TR] Baker/Roman Wall (with camera crevasse rescue!!) - Coleman / Roman Wall 4/27/0


Gaucho Argentino

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Trip: Baker/Roman Wall (with camera crevasse rescue!!) - Coleman / Roman Wall

 

Date: 4/27/2011

 

Trip Report:

08/09/2009...

 

Well, sitting in front of the computer is not my forte, but is the only way to share some of the fun. I had been intending to post at least this trip, out of the 30 climbs of the last 2 years, mostly because of some cool pics of massive crevasses, getting my camera out of one... good times.

 

So, on a Friday night, Matt, Chris and I took off to Baker. We tried to bike in the 7 miles of the closed road 39. We did it for only 2 miles and then 5 of carrying the bikes... but it was a hell of a way down !!

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/090807_2200hrs-Biking_in1.JPG[/img]

 

 

As a funny note, on the Hogback we found a party of six that were going for the North Ridge in a multiday climb, and the guys asked us for an extra lighter because NO ONE brought a single match or lighter (I swear I'm not lying...) :shock:

 

We found some late season broken crap up there under the Black Buttes

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/090808_1211hrs-Hitting_the_Glacier_12a11.JPG[/img]

 

 

And after the very nice day, night came with some clouds and light rain, but nothing that bad

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/326.JPG[/img]

 

 

 

However the morning was awesome and we went up working the way through ginormous crevasses... some of them:

 

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/425.JPG[/img]

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/519.JPG[/img]

 

 

Unluckily, my velcro camera case opened, and the camera flew into a crevasse... FUUUUUUU#####ccccccc******kkkkk!!!!!!

Matt self arresting while I went to the lip to try to see the camera, but no way...

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/617.JPG[/img]

 

 

Well, what the hell, we kept going and we summit...

 

 

Pic of the top of the Roman Wall with Colfax in the background

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/712.JPG[/img]

 

Summit rim with an ocean of clouds all around

 

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/812.JPG[/img]

 

 

 

Time to head down, and when tracing our steps, I look again for the camera, and I saw it stucked in a lip about 30 feet down in a 200 feet crevasse !! So we buried two pickets for Matt (his back in the pic) and one more for Chris (took the pic) and down I went.

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/1117.JPG[/img]

 

I got the camera and recorded two videos. NOW: viewer discretion advised :), clearly can be exhilarating to go down in a crevasse on an 8.9 mm rope, because the expressions are not precisely for a school, but what the heck, I do not mind, I got my camera back !!

 

NOTE: don't tell me I have no accent, OK??!! :grin:

 

First short video:

 

 

Second slightest longer video:

 

 

And here is a pic with MY CAMERA of the crevasse where it fall, it got stucked in the little lip border kinda above the big hole you see in the bottom...

 

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/917.JPG[/img]

 

 

Finally, we made it out without major extra complications, good time with good friends outside, what can be better?

 

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/1015.JPG[/img]

 

 

 

Credit goes to Matt and Chris for pics as well, some were taken by them...

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

1 x 8.9mm 60m rope

3 pickets

 

Approach Notes:

Bike, wandering around crevasses

Edited by Gaucho Argentino
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Looks like it scared the sh*t out of you while in the crevasse. The shot you took looking down speaks a thousand words. Looks like a sweet climb...

 

Back in 2009, I think this climb was my fifth ever in my life. The feeling of hanging in the air on an 8.9 mm rope was actually very interesting :eek: , specially when you see there is a whole in it and you can not see the bottom ... I do not know many people willing to go on purpose doen there :grin: so at least they can see how it is from inside :) ...

otherwise the climb was fairly simple and common, but fun...

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