Powder Skier Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 (edited) Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress Date: 2/12/2011 Trip Report: Vern and i decided to try Chair Peak. Snow conditions were pretty ideal. Looked like it had rained recently so there was a nice ice crust. Didn't see any tracks except on the downclimb. Ice was pliable but solid so made for easy climbing on the ice pitches. About half way up the winds kicked up and the gusts were strong enough that I had to hug the snow to keep from getting knocked over. We reached the top but didn't hang out long due to the wind. It was really bad downclimbing. Right about when we reached the lake the storm that we were trying to avoid moved in and it started raining on us for the hike back. Not so much fun, but well worth the summit. Downclimb Traverse Snowpack down low is looking fairly aweful. We saw alot of holes opening up and the snow was a slushy mess. Snowpack up around rockslide basin is pretty solid, however. Could get a couple hundred feet of good skiing if its worth the 3 mile hike in. Gear Notes: Pro: 2 snow pickets, two ice screws, piton, slings. 60m 9.8mm rope Approach Notes: Climbed up the first pitch of ice. placed an ice screw and a picket. Put a sling around the trees for the belay. Next pitch setup a snow picket for the belay station. Traversed across to the second ice pitch. Placed a solid snow picket. Set two ice screws since the ice was hollow. Slung a rock for the belay station. Put a sling around a small tree at the top. Downclimbed to the belay station that had some pitons. Rapped down over the cornice. Edited February 14, 2011 by Powder Skier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Was up at Alpental today. Wow, it's like mid-April up there! Great, warm, spring weather. Most of the snow is gone already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfrost Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Climbed the N Face on Friday in high winds and blowing snow. One set of tracks up and over in front of my partner and I. Route is FAT taking screws easily on the bottom ice "pitch". Pretty quick in and out without skis--definitely spring conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Nice work gents. I was up there watching the sun rise without a partner (he chose to be with his girlfriend over climbing with me). The NE buttress looked good...glad someone enjoyed it. It got a bit windy later in the morning. Thanks for the TR. Took this on the hike out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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