bigbro

Thanks for the stoke PU. It's been too long.

I did the Regular Route in August 2005, and can vouch for the 2pm'ish time frame for the sun hitting the wall. We made it to the chimneys by this time and the temps were very comfortable. Also, that year the spring at the base was still flowing. Finally, If you plan to bivy try to avoid hauling.

I've used the sp a lot as well . . . agreed that one backup not works well and is mandatory if you are not caring the rope (the weight of the rope cinches the clove hitch). I usually use about a 30-50ft loop between the knot and the device. I prefer to flake the rope on the ground if doing single pitch (less weight) and carefully stack it in a sling/bucket if doing multi-pitch. 10.5 has worked well for me in the past. I have used it for lowering as well, although not ideal, it does have enough friction, for short lower outs. If rapping a full pitch, I'd recommend a Gri-gri single line (assuming multi-pitch climbing). Also . . . don't know if they're still made or not but 2 Petzl williams spin ball biners, connected through your tie-in point works well. Screw gates loosen up as they rub together and auto-lockers are a pain. With spin balls both gates open in unison and they stay locked. Finally . . . regarding the 2mm, (assuming I am understanding you(spotly)). . . just tie a butterfly or figure eight into several pieces as you move up. That way you are constantly building a bomb proof anchor as well as reducing the chance of slack building up on the anchor side. The catch is pretty soft with the sp, I don't know the KN, but it feels pretty soft, not sure a screamer would be that beneficial. Oh ya, don't grab the rope if you fall, you will fall a lot farther and probably get some nice rope burn.

I have yet to get a clear answer on the access issues for Rocks of Sharon. However, I do know that Bob Ordner and Eric Barrett have worked very hard to put a lot of the new lines in, particularly on the Big Rock. Some of the best lines up there, in my opinion. Thank guys! Marty's directions are still valid, to my knowledge.

At one time there were five bolts on top of Dihedral (3 near the edge and two 10-15 feet back). I believe there are at least four that remain, which is too many. Anyway, my previous point was simply that there is a lot of hardware on top of the Main Wall @ Minni. Rather than slapping more bolts in, the impact to other climbers and recreators should be considered. Dude, your own buddy is the guy rippin out the bolts! I'm just saying a little less exposure/impact is a reasonable objective.

What happened to low impact climbing? Five bolted anchors for one climb is excessive. When are the handrails, fixed safety lines, and ladders being installed? Obviously, there are people on this site that do not want the bolts replaced. Maybe this is something to think about before more holes are drilled.

Your Ninja memory must be failing you, that 3/8in hole has been there for years! If you want to stir up some shit with guys that like to drill useless holes, go talk to the "kootenai climber coalition".

The rocker vs. crampon issue has not been a problem with the Kaylands. My Grivel 2F's fit like a glove. They don't have a lot of "rocker" and the 2F pivots differently than other crampons. I know that a lot of boot-makers currently use the "rocker" type. It seems to be more and more common. It's a great idea but maybe they should have consulted the crampon makers. I know this has been a headache for at least one crampon company. I don't really have a solution other than a few love taps with a hammer. Some of the Petzl/Charlet crampons bend/comform pretty easily. Good luck!

The gullies will most likely be boiler plate ice all the way. I have climbed U notch in September with Kayland Multi-Tractions and had no problem frontpointing. The Trango Evos have a similar flex, as I recall. Having some flex is nice for the approach and talus field. FYI, I have seen guys up there in september, in plastics!

Dirt bikes in wilderness areas make great target practice!!

Depends on the boot. If your looking to buy, try your boot out on several brands. Some will fit better than others. FYI my partner had an issue with fitting an older set of sabertooths to Trango Ice boots.

Has anyone used the CAMP Lift? It seems very similar to the USHBA basic but about half the price ~$36.

FYI Yakima systems work better on American and Japanese cars(generally speaking). Unless you already have some components, this is the way to go.

Are you talking about Slick Rock of McCall?

I'm not going this year, but I was working at the event last year. There is free camping at the group site at the bridge creek campground. I think directions are on the feathered friends web site. If you plan on partying into the early am, this is a good place to be, if not, you'll want to be well away from the area because of the music. It is a really good/fun event and easy to meet people to climb with. I wish I could go this year but, I have other obligations. Have fun!