AaronB

I have a Black Diamond Eldorado for sale. It has been used only a few times, and is in excellent condition. $300 email me ajbailey555@gmail.com

I have a pair of never worn, new in box, size 48 Baruntse. $400. I am also willing to trade for a size 49. Email me ajbailey555@gmail

Hey All. Selling off some delightful Aid and non aid gear. Good stuff. Hauling setup: Petzl Pro Traxion (used once) Black Diamond Rotor Swivel (never used) Brand new 7mm 35' lower-out bag line Complete set offset x4 Cams Off set superlight rocks A lot of pins, hooks, rivet hangers, etc. Yates wall ladders C3 000 and 00 I put them up on Craigslist http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5441286474.html Craigslist add for wonderful and amazing aid gear

Anyone headed to the valley for Rocktober? I have a Black Diamond Cliff Cabana double ledge (used once, and I mean literally one night), and a never used fly with pole to go with it. Both for $550. (Retail for both is $1000) email me at: ajbailey555@yahoo.com

These are assorted sized and come with a V-Thread tool and an OR screw holder. Everything for $150

Sold

Bump! Don't make me put this eBay! ajbailey555 at gmail

I have a used set of metolius TCUs for sale. 100$ for the set of 6

OBO

Hey all. I have a never used double ledge for sale. Black Diamond Cliff Cabana. Bought it new in May and only set it up once in the park. $430

I'm looking for real beta. Anyone been up there this weekend? Road opened Friday?

What are people's thoughts on NR Baker conditions right now?

Trip: Dragontail - Backbone Ridge Date: 9/1/2013 Trip Report: I've known Oleg for years but have never climbed with him. It turned out to be a treat. We met at Colchuck lake for dinner and whiskey around 5pm on Saturday. Woke up a little after 530am and were hiking by 630. We both were feeling the whiskey and no joke brought 8 liters of water! We brought our gear and planned on a bivy around the summit or back at the lake. The climbing was very straightforward for the most part and on very clean secure rock. He had already led the offwidth on a prior trip and let me have that lead. I was surprised that it wasn't that hard. It was strenuous, but very straightforward and secure. We brought two number 5 cams and a number 6 so I didn't have to move the cams up very much and could climb past them as the pitch isn't that long. I didn't feel run out. The pack was very heavy with all the water so we tried to drink as much as possible. It felt weird not to ration and actually have too much water and food. We kept eating and drinking and it almost felt like cragging over alpine. The climbing is relaxing and enjoyable with no really hard moves. We did notice several bivy spots along the way, with some awesome ones on top of backbone ridge. Getting to the fin, it looked mostly blank from below. I didn't really have any beta on the climb and Oleg left the pictures and descriptions in the car. We kind of guessed where to start climbing and it was so good. I really can't describe how enjoyable the pitches were with such great exposure and afternoon sun. The last pitch to the top of the fin felt run out as we used the #5 cams for the belay. So it was a runnout foot traverse with great exposure. We did have one very sketchy rappel off the mountain. We went down to the East on the descent since we only had tennis shoes and wanted to avoid the steep snow. The first single rappel was straightforward, but the second was sketchy. It barely covered a tiny horn (if you could call it that). I am a lot bigger so I went first with Oleg keeping an eye on it. We backed it up with two cams in case it popped. Unfortunately it went on an overhang and ended up being 12 feet too short to a big ledge. I placed a cam and did the crazy bounce testing to see if the rappel would fail for oleg. It held and I let the ends go through the rope and was able to reach a place to downclimb. We then made another rappel to the snow and descended to a good bivy site. Great climb and great partner. Here are some photos. This is me towards the top of the offwidth Oleg on the pitch above it. The great bivy spots on top of the BB Me on the fin somewhere low Oleg on the second to last pitch Oleg at his belay Looking down on Oleg from the top of the fin Gear Notes: You don't need two #5's but what the hell right? And #6 8 Liters of water double cams to .4 to #3 with some small stuff too 10 alpine draws and 3 doubles 2 hangovers

Goatboy, I seem to remember running into you on the w ridge of forbidden the last time I did the traverse. (9 years ago?)You had just climbed the e ridge direct. The rope on the snow was sort of phycological protection. My partner didn't have much experience on steeper snow and wanted to be roped in. It gave her more confidence with the idea she would have a belay for the last 200 feet. Basically seemed worth the risk for her to feel more confident. That and I already had a 60m rope in my pack most of the climb after trying to manage two ropes the first day. Didn't feel like squeezing another in . Also, I feel these pictures make it look steeper than it really is? Good for making us look cool, but bad for beta. Almost all the rockfall was climber caused including the big guy that nailed me and tore my precious pants. There is a nasty loose section as you are climbing to gain the ridge after the second snow traverse.

Saw a giant snaffle sitting on my helmet 4 inches from my face. I blew him a kiss goodnight and let him have his way with my stuff. I didn't notice any damage or missing food. Maybe your battle scared the future generations into submission. The stove fiasco involved what I think was screwing on the canister with the valve on and not noticing it. By the time it was noticed, the fuel was desperately low. Just enough for 3 liters of water. Rookie mistake. Climbing sans water while surrounded by snow is pretty annoying. No coffee = depressing.