gearheart

The Squamish Access Society has completed Phase 3 of our re-bolting initiative. Phase 3 included work at the Smoke Bluffs including bolt and/or anchor replacement on Supervalue 10c, Geritol 10c and House Music 10c, Digital Dexterity 12c and 4 routes at Burgers & Fries (11a, 11a, 11c, 10a). At Murrin at Nightmare anchor bolts and chains were replaced on Big Daddy 12b and anchor bolts, chains and protection bolts were replaced on And Metal for All 11d. Much work was completed at Chek including the completion of the perma-draw project with 100 further perma-draws being placed on toxic lichen, circus and big show walls. The perma-draw work at these walls is now basically completed. At the Forgotten Wall bolts were replaced on Creepy Crawlers 11a, Creeping Right 10d, The Voodoo You Do 10b, Rug Munchers 11d and Junkyard Patio 11a. At Toxic Lichen, Olympic Bid 11d, Ill Communication 13a and the Mutation 11c all received new anchors. At the Circus random bolts were replaced on The Fleeing Heifer 12c, Bottom Feeder 12d, The Wayward Bovine 12b and Neutered Bovine 11c. The Daily Planet 12b received new anchors on every pitch above p. 1 and all protection bolts on p. 5 were replaced. Full details of Phase 3 with many photos can be seen at http://squamishaccess.ca/ The reports on Phase 1 and Phase 2 can also be found at http://squamishaccess.ca/?p=699 and http://squamishaccess.ca/?p=687 The Squamish Access Society would like to gratefully acknowledge the efforts of Andre Ike at Westcoast Mountain Guides and Colin Moorhead at Squamish Rock Guides for their contribution to this work. Todd

Nice trip report and pics of a beautiful place. When I lived up there (early 90's) we did anything we could to avoid the East ridge/AA col descent given its reputation for route finding fun and manky raps, so we would downclimb Skyladder, although for us routes in that bowl were usually done in May/June with more snow around. The AA col had such a bad rep (one friend had earned the unfortunate nickname "heli-rescue" from an adventure there...) we also chose to descend the relative unknown of the west side of the north bowl rather than the AA col after a May ascent of Shooting Gallery.

I am certain we would love to have someone volunteer to put some time into the skypilot/habrich issue. If anyone wants to get involved in that or any other access issue, or provide feedback on any squamish area access issues, the Squamish Access Society annual general meeting is next Sunday Oct. 3 at 6pm in the garibaldi room at the brew pub. There will also be a couple of slide shows (Jeremy Smith and Colin Moorhead, theme may be new routes in the gullies of the chief) and various ropes and other gear to be won as door prizes. Todd Squamish Access Society squamishaccess.ca

Yes, fantastic news for the upper malamute, but no change regarding the closure of the lower malamute. Todd Squamish Access Society

No, the new squamish comprehensive is still in the works, canadian rock - western select is finished and now in the stores (climb on has it anyway). It is impressive - including bow valley and icefields parkway stuff that has never been in a guidebook before, plus bow valley trad and sport, llouise, ghost, yam, jasper, then spilli, castlegar, gimli, revelstoke, kamloops, yak, skaha, squamish (murrin to chek and beyond), etc, etc. http://highcol.ca/books.html There is also a new squamish bouldering guide by Marc B apparently very close to release - I haven't seen it but many have told me it is really good (and huge). Todd

Not as much or by the routes we had hoped to! We got up Eldorado by the E ridge (after a complete circumnavigation of the peak in the course of bailing on the west arete), Forbidden's E Ridge and Sharkfin over a 4 day trip. Glad to hear that you two are back on the road again - enjoy the trip, it sounds like Part 2 will be just as awesome. I definitely enjoyed hanging out with you guys on Temple and look forward to running into you sometime again. I have a picture of you starting up the Big Step somewhere, maybe I'll try to post it here. Todd

Here's a recent summary on Malamute access issues from the Squamish Access Society (SAS): Although climbers have been active on the Malamute for over 40 years, it presents climbers today with the most high profile and complex access situation in the entire region. The Malamute can be considered as two separate areas; upper and lower, each with a different set of ownership and access issues. The situation at the lower Malamute, where the CN Rail tracks skirt along the base of the cliffs, is that the rail right-of-way, some 18 metres each side of the tracks, has been aggressively declared by the rail company as a “we may prosecute” zone if they find climbers there. All the Malamute crags and climbs beyond and above the rail right-of-way are on undeveloped private land and the owners, two Squamish businessmen, have offered no formal objection to the presence of climbers. However, this situation cannot be taken for granted, and it could change at any time. If you visit or climb at the upper Malamute, the SAS asks that you be fully aware it is private property and be respectful, both of the place itself, and anyone you may encounter there. Todd Gerhart (SAS Director)

Ahhh, the rumours are true. Have you climbed it or heard any other details about the soon-to-be most popular long route on the Chief?

Yeah, we climbed the N. ridge two days after that incident. More than ever gotta get off that face before the day heats up - we would aim to be up whatever the route, off the mountain and back in the Astoria pub in Jasper by noonish.

Some options if the snow & ice is no good in late May - climb long limestone routes! Brewers Buttress on Castle Mtn is superb, as is the Kain route on Mt. Louis. Other front range limestone in the Jasper area like Meissner Ridge on CR2 or any of the routes on Mount Colin are good if the snow and ice conditions aren't cooperating.

I worked at the Columbia Icefields for a few summers about ten years ago and the usual wisdom was climb it in May or early June after a good overnight freeze and hope to be kicking steps, or wait until after the snow is off the face mid-summer. Usually more avi activity in late June. The downside is that the anchors (pin belay) below the crux rockband may be snowed up and hard to find, but you should be able to dig for screw placements anyway. Of course, the mixed move may be only one bodylength long if you get it in good, early season conditions. I think, sadly, that the hourglass route is now melted out - too bad, as stemming up that serac was pretty cool. One thing to note - global warming is making a mess of ice routes in the Rockies. I was back climbing the N. Ridge of Athabasca (not recommended, the last route on the peak to do) last August (2004) and was shocked to see the state of the north face - melting out with big rock fall scouring the face. Things have really changed with global warming and I wonder if these routes are safe during the summer these days. One other thought - before you go or as you are planning your trip, call the Parks Canada wardens at Mile 45 (Sunwapta) and ask them about conditions - a lot of experienced climbers (and ACMG guides) are wardens and they usually know exactly what shape things are in. Enjoy!

I recently bought a Metolius Simulator - the most varied-looking board I could find. It is excellent and as it is in my garage it is far more convenient than driving to a climbing gym and I am using it almost every second day. The fact that a decent fingerboard work-out takes less than half an hour is a factor huge if time is in short supply. I can't believe I didn't buy one sooner.

Nicely done - we climbed that route last year as part of a traverse of Alpha and Serratus and had similar "issues" on the descent from Serratus as it sounds like you had off of Alpha. The descent was certainly a little more involved than expected. We were lucky enough to borrow a canoe from a friend which is definitely the way to get across the Squamish River. The canoe across is quick, safe and easy. Crossing the cable looked like a frightening and strenuous proposal to me - power to you guys. We climbed up and over Alpha on day one which takes you to what I thought was perhaps the best part of the trip - the "Inca" bivy in the col between Alpha and Serratus. It gets the last light of the day and the first light in the morning - an awesome bivy up high in a spectacular spot. Highly recommended.

This route looks fantastic - can't wait! People worry too much about grades - it's a new route, you gotta expect some uncertainty.

I have never needed a headlamp on a glacier in the early morning - always turn it off when leaving the moraine and when getting on the glacier. The other benefit of an alpine start is that if you are really fast you can summit and be in the pub drinking beer & eating poutine by noon.