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bmyers427

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About bmyers427

  • Birthday 04/27/1992

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  1. I'm looking for one or two more partners for Rainier this week. I have a friend flying into town and our third bailed last minute. We were planning on doing the DC and camping at Ingraham Flats. I could be convinced to do the Emmons as well. One extra partner would be perfect, since I have a short glacier rope, but two would work as well. Just a heads up, he has no official glacier training or anything, but he is in good shape and has been practicing his rope systems. I do have experience doing glacier travel. Let me know if you're interested. -Brett
  2. Everything i saw said that baker and rainier were supposed to get 1-3 ft of fresh snow last night so I don't really want to mess around with anything west of the crest. If you want to do anything in leavenworth/wa pass, i would be interested.
  3. I'm looking for a partner for Saturday the 25th or Sunday, but i can only do one day. I'm interested in any alpine climb up to 5.9 or higher if someone else wants to lead the hard pitches. I'm not in great shape but i was hoping to do a c2c death march to avoid crowds. the beckey-davis route or Paisano/burgundy are options, but I'm not picky. I'd like to swing leads and i can drive from seattle if need be or meet someone. I'd also be open to a glacier climb that isn't super popular.
  4. I'm looking for someone to climb with somewhat regularly this winter. I trad climb, I've led a few pitches of easy ice and I have glacier experience. It would be nice if I could get out with somebody more experienced than me, since I don't really know my way around the Cascades in the winter yet, and it'd be sweet to not die. I don't have many ideas off the top of my head, but I'd be up for anything from single pitch ice to the bigger mountains like Shuksan. I'm in Seattle and have a car and pretty much all the gear I would need.
  5. Even with EPS helmets, like the one I had, it's not like one impact renders the helmet useless. this is actually my exact helmet. If you get hit hard enough for the helmet to break, you're probably already gonna be in rough shape. I would say the odds of me getting hit with two large rocks in the same spot in one trip are much lower than the odds of me taking a tumble down some slab (which are embarrassingly high). Foam does suck for belaying an ice climber though.
  6. I've been using an all foam (with thin polycarbonate shell) for about 4 years now. I've always insisted that even though most are only rated for climbing (impact from above) that they are much safer than older style helmets in a side impact. I may have gone so far as to insist that it is safe enough to bike with and made it my primary bike helmet since my actual one is less comfortable. Some proof (or at least one data point) of my claim came a month ago when I wrecked my bike and fell hard enough to break my collarbone and damage my helmet. I smacked my dome pretty fucking hard and managed to escape with a mild concussion at worst. I can't compare it to a normal climbing helmet, but I'm gonna throw this out there as another argument for all foam helmets. In a short ground fall or a big upside down whipper, it could be the difference between mild or serious injury. Although this is coming from someone who's an amateur climber, an almost engineer and a goddamn fool.
  7. Unfortunately, I just broke my collarbone biking, so climbing isn't happening until January for me. If you're looking for partners after that, I'm always looking.
  8. The weather looks terrible, but I'm getting cabin fever. Anybody with a car interested in doing something easy this weekend? Preferably with low avalanche risk and a day trip. Even just a lap up the tooth or something of similar difficulty in a better location. Ice would be good too if there is any and you have ice screws (I've only got three).
  9. to clarify for everyone else, the injury was simply an accident and not really related to the route itself. the climb seems pretty safe. most of the belays are protected from rockfall and we got rid of a couple blocks since we knew nobody was in the gully. overall it's a great new route. the grade seemed about right, it's well bolted and the pitches are all good enough that you don't need to fight for who gets which (although we did anyway).
  10. I went up this on sunday. We had a climber get injured on the rappel and as a result we had to leave a 70 meter rope on a horn above the gulley to get him down. If anybody is going up i would really appreciate getting it back. On a side note, this was an awesome route. I'm glad we could get on it before it gets crowded. I wouldn't want to be in the gulley with climbers on the upper part of the route.
  11. Unfortunately i had to change plans for this weekend so I don't need a partner.
  12. I'm hoping to get out and climb an alpine route or go mountaineering this weekend (8/22-23). I would need a partner in the seattle area who would be willing to drive since I don't have a car. I would gladly pay for gas and stuff. I've only done a few alpine climbs and wouldn't want to do much over 5.8 or 9, but i could definitely follow 10+. Would prefer to not have to do any loose class 4 downclimbing or anything like that. I've got gear for trad, glacier and i e climbing and would be up for any of that. I'd be up for anything in wa pass, maybe forbidden, north ridge of baker, something interesting up rainier, mt challenger, wild hair crack or pretty much anything. 1 or 2 days. I could probably swing a monday or friday off too.
  13. Sorry if this is an old topic or anything like that, but does anybody know the best place for doing toproped ice climbing on a glacier or anything like that? I'm in Seattle and I was hoping to find the closest and easiest approach for something like that. My current plan is just to head up towards Camp Muir and head over to the Cowlitz around maybe 8000 ft, but if there's anything closer or easier, I was hoping to find out. I'm trying to teach some new people how to ice climb before getting onto a long route with alpine ice. Thanks, Brett
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