definedbypassion

I was apart of the team mentioned that was on route the day before you guys had your adventure. I believe we talked to you all on the lake after we had descended, and were crossing back to our camp. While we were up there, the majority of the couloir was a exhausting wallow-fest of slogging/post-holing up crotch deep, unbroken snow, that SIGNIFICANTLY slowed us. We were able to make far better time through the periodic mixed/ice sections, and the final ~5.4 rock pitch to the summit. As said earlier, we were camp-to-camp in about 10 hours. I dont remember which guide book states it, but a 4-8 hour climb to the summit is to be expected depending on time of year and conditions. We thought given the slowness of the snow conditions, a 10 hour round trip time, with the late start we got, was reasonable. Had the conditions that weekend been firmer, allowing anything other than a wallow-fest, Id expect the ascent time to be WAY faster. We carried a single 60m rope, small rack of #0.3-2, a full set of nuts, and 4 ice screws. Also 1 nalgene of water, and 2 cliff bars total between the two of us. The rope and hardware stayed packed away as we solo'd the couloir, the NW face traverse, and the final couloir that dumped us at the base of the final ~5.4 rock pitch to the summit. We discussed roping for some of the mixed/ice bulges, but opted to continue soloing and stay staggered in order to conserve time. We climbed to the rock summit pitch in one continuous push. The rock pitch we did sans crampons/tools, placing a #2 and a #0.5, anchoring with a single nut, and a #0.3. We were on the summit at about 430pm, much later than wed wanted or planned to be. We munched the cliff bars, pounded the water, and then started our descent at about 5pm. As said earlier, we reached the lake at 7pm. We made great time on the descent with the hardening snow conditions. Glad you are all safe to provide the trip report, and be able to reflect on decisions made. After reading your report, I wish wed talked longer and gave you more detailed beta on the route conditions and what to expect.