maw

Wayne, don't hear me wrong! You were summoning the power of the battle cry which enabled a most awesome send. It was exciting to watch from the adjacent tower. Full disclosure: I guess you didn't hear me on the 10d variation of the Southwest Rib swearing, grunting and yelling my way through the fingercrack, undercling and final jams. Good send, glad I could share the photo with you.

Wayne. You were wearing a red Jacket, yellow helmet. You were in Washington pass on Sunday, August 16th 2015. You were climbing Labor Pains on North Early Winters Spire. You told me: "Please tell my belayer that I am off belay; my name is Wayne". I was climbing the Southwest Rib on South Early Winters Spire. I was yelling at you to try harder. I took a photo of you crushing the crux. Enjoy. p.s - unedited photo attached to this post.

Trip: Disillusion Peak (attempt) via Centre Creek FSR - Northwest ridge Date: 1/12/2013 Trip Report: Originally planning an attempt on Mt Edgar via Paleface creek, two friends and I were turned around early on Chilliwack Lake FSR due to treefall. Yes, someone dumped their Christmas tree in front of the treefall. Our backup plan was to explore Centre Creek, specifically the basin below Delusion & Disillusion Peaks. The gate protecting Centre Creek was left open, I am not sure if it's still being locked or not; we didn't have any issues. The driveable road ended right when the FSR turns into the valley proper. Snow conditions prevented driving any further. Even if one managed to 4x4 up the road there is serious tree fall blocking the road before the first bridge. Bring a chainsaw and lots of fuel if you're going to clear up that mess. Other than the treefall before the first bridge, recent logging has cleaned up the first (~2km) section of the road. Then, the road degenerates into an alder maze. We found the walking up Centre Creek was pretty fast. The road gains little elevation and other than the alder it's essentially straight. Finding the branch road just before the second bridge, we began winding our way up with excellent views of Rexford, Nesakwatch Spires, Disillusion, Williams, Goat, MacDonald and Lindeman. The road hike is long, but the gentle grade made it generally easy going. As we gained elevation the snow became more and more powdery. Breaking trail in ~1-2ft of powder was tiring and our pace slowed. After four hours of logging road climbing we arrived at the final switchback. We sighted a decent approach to the ridge proper. Staying near the boulder field we cut a line up through the trees until we found a suitable site for camping. The night was pretty cold with temperatures dropping to -15c. We woke up around 06:00 and made some coffee while we contemplated leaving our sleeping bags. We procrastinated long enough for the sun to rise. Leaving camp around 07:15 we made relatively quick progress to gain the ridge. We were rewarded with magnificant views of Slesse, Shuksan, Robbie Reid and pretty much every other mountain with a line of sight from the ridge. We began to wind our way slowly up the ridge as snow conditions were not ideal. There were huge cornices on the east side and wind slab on the west side of the ridge. Surmounting a few obstacles we eventually got to a notch on the ridge as it narrowed significantly. We were presented with a snow bridge where on climbers left was a 200m cliff and climbers right was a 80degree slope onto the Illusion slabs and off the mountain. As we did not bring a rope and the fact that at this point we litterally were kicking steps with our snowshoes we decided it was prudent to abort mission. The descent was uneventful but provided a good opportunity to scout some future trips on neighbouring peaks. Gear Notes: Unless you're a monster snowshoer or skier, be prepared to spend the night on the mountain. Bring a rope and some snow pro. Brought, but didn't use: - Ice axe - Crampons

Trip: Mount Harvey - North Ramp Date: 12/30/2012 Trip Report: Two friends and I climbed Harvey's ramp on Sunday. The ramp is totally filled in right now. There is considerable snow on the north face and the pup. The two snow fields on the pup have not slid out and may pose a danger for the lower portions of the ramp. There are two large cornices above the upper traverse. Gear Notes: - Snowshoes/skis - Crampons - Axes We brought, but didn't use: - 2 * ropes - Ice screws - Climbing harness - biners etc... Approach Notes: Lot's of snow. The approach took significantly longer than expected.