SethKL

@lunger, ha! At some point I started referring to overheating as 'the meat is too hot!' I guess meat makes sense, to some minds at least I don't have a report of it. We found out because we called the Forest Service office attempting to get info on the road closures. The guy in the phone mentioned it and advised we be careful. In hindsight, I had no verification, but given Steph Abegg's Soviet rte report was so recent, I can see how Bonanza was 'in vogue'. I remember breaking foot hold and halting meat rain, slicing my fingertip badly on the first day. Nonetheless, all mountains have choss somewhere, but it's cool to see/hear where y'all found somewhat firm rock. Perhaps one day there will be a proper hard route up some of the steepest parts of that peak. That would be mega given the area's beauty and remoteness! A decade ago?! FMR. I don't know if I would do 'our' approach if it were today....and we waited-out rain for over 3days at the col and climbed without hammer or pins, like a couple psychos. I had been properly climbing for about 4years at that point; long enough to be dangerous but now I sometimes wonder 'what the heck was I thinking?'. Hope to run into you out there!

Hahaha! Is 'meat-rain' a term of your concocting? Its prudent. Bravo gents; getting out there and doing it on a serious and remote wall while maintaining the mind to stay smooth and safe is exceptional. Climbing such rock and navigating all else in the time you did speaks to y'all's high skill and strength. Great writing too, @lunger. Definitely rock quality that inspires contacting one's family and loved ones.

Thanks. Those guys hadn't heard of anything.

Checking if anyone has knowledge of ascents of the below feature (yellow line.) I found no info after consulting the web, Red Fred and asking the Method Valley ''ol timers' . We did not detect previous passage. Silver Star massif from west. Red flag is West Silver Star summit. Dashed YELLOW is line of ascent in question; a rib extending west, forming right wall of W Face Couloir (Allen, Keller '05) Photo & pilot by John Scurlock, taken from Mark Allen's TR http://alpinelines.blogspot.com/2008/10/fa-silverstar-mountain-west-face.html

Black Diamond Vision Harness. $100 ships free from 98862 (Winthrop, WA) Size Large New with tags https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/climbing-harnesses/vision-harness-BD651096_cfg.html

Well done gents! I wanted to share an observation of the under-roof-pins in P3 & 4: Due to the near constant (certainly this year) wetness in the crack these pins are in, they are corroded more than others on this route. A couple weeks ago a pin was *easily* tugged out from the P3 traverse (highlighted below (back-up pro noted!)) : the wet, corroded tip then fell to the talus, followed by the remaining once I threw it down. Bottom line: Said pins on these pitches are no longer in ideal condition.

Sold

Size Medium. No Rips or rubs. All buckles functional. Includes factory foam back pad/bivvy pad. Gently used once in snowy conditions. Stored inside ever since. Located in Seattle. 541-727-1869 Show your homies you know what'sup since '04. https://www.climbing.com/gear/wild-things-ice-sac-alpine-pack-review/ $50 OBO

Many climbs in the BL area are in, especially so by the middle of this week. Go get it!

scream [skrem] noun 1. long, loud, piercing cry expressing extreme emotion or pain. We (on "Tooth and Claw", Lexington Tower) were uncertain if: a)somebody was now broken, or b) my echo finally reached us. Relieved and stoked on ya'll's effort!

Looking for a pair Dynafit Denali skis in 176 cm or Cho Oyu in 174 cm in used or new condition. Not interested in shot-up and clapped-out skis (I have plenty). Skins would be great but not a deal breaker. Please PM me with what you got. Thanks.

Nice work Jiri and team! Pardon my inter-TR-posting, but I have a bit of info on the W side and skiing conditions per Water's question: On 05/25 at ca. 1 pm my partner and myself skied SW and W aspects of the NW ridge. Weather began as upper 20s and was ca upper 30s with sun (mostly) during the ski descent. Snow was tasty corn. I expect all W and SW aspects of the MT are consistent with what we had...the climbing was fabulous. Looking East from Woodpecker ridge Thousands of feet of corn Go get it! P.S. The following day we discovered Mt. Washington's W bowl to have enough snow for similar skiing (softer) from the base of pinnacle to treeline.

$80 Purchased a year ago and used 95% of the time in the gym. They are in excellent condition with no rips, scuffs, or foot odor. They have just been resoled (1/2 rand by Rubber Room) but not climbed in since. I am selling in order to down-size my gear heap. Free shipping to lower 48. Link to my C-list ad: http://medford.craigslist.org/spo/5009949241.html

Anastasia, I will be heading to the N. Cascades by the end of this week, climbing for about 1.5 weeks. Pretty flexible schedule and can carpool from PDX or SEA. I was hoping to check out Colfax and other good objectives. If your still looking for a partner shoot an email seth.keena at gmail dot com. Seth