Otto

Oly, thanks for pointing out that motors are simply not allowed to run in Wilderness Areas. That should have been one of the choices on this silly poll.

Oly, my copy of the Beckey/Bjornstad guide to Leavenworth is first edition, fourth printing.

Here are four from my old guidebook box. The Rich Carlstad/Don Brooks book was the one I followed around when I first started climbing in the late 1970s. I've met both those guys, but never climbed with them.

Of course I will provide a couple of stills to gain interest. Here's what it looks like when walking upstream: Here's what it looks like at the bottom: This may be a tall persons' climb; I could not get established in the crack without using my highest possible pinch, and I'm 6'1". I hope others will be able to get a fingerlock to work lower down...

Does any one of the Darrington old timers out there know of any other attempts on this rock formation? Could this have been a testpiece of the past, left to be grown over and forgotten? This is about four miles up the Squire Creek logging road, just a few steps off the single track. It is now obvious from the road now that it has been cleaned. I'm calling it Loggers' Crack. Please see this Mountain Project forum note: Loggers' Crack note w/ video

Thanks for a very interesting trip report! Like the leisurely style.

Trip: Squire Creek Wall, South side - Hike up a boot track Trip Date: 05/11/2023 Trip Report: On Thursday I took a bike ride up the Squire Creek valley out of Darrington, and then a hike across the creek and up the other side. After parking at the newly graded lot below the new boulders in the road, I found the logging road to be perfectly clear of the winter's debris. The boot track beyond the creek is also free of any new devastation. I always like to catch Slab Daddy and Oso Rodeo in the morning light: There is a good peekaboo view of Illusion Wall along the way, before the alders leaf out: There is still plenty of snow perched on the slab at the start of Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer: Jet Tower on high: Gear Notes: Crampons for the two snow gullies. Approach Notes: Approach is in very good shape.

I need to be in town that day, so I might as well join the club. Will be watching for the venue. Thanks for doing this, Oly.

Went up the road this past Tuesday, 5/2/2023, and dragged that last of the branches and small logs off the road. All the snow is now gone, and there is nothing unusual which would cause a bicyclist to dismount.

Just visited, on 4/5/2023, the Squire Creek road with an axe. Chopped out six alders and two firs that had come across the road. One of them was still covered with snow, so I cut both ends and left it to roll off the road, later. Other than that, there are no new obstructions that would require a bike rider to dismount. I walked up to the South Face turnoff point, about four miles up. There was about two feet of snow there.

I will join if it's up in Lake City. Will check for a poll here later today, thanks for doing this, oly.

I never met the man but I bought this book in 1989, which was published the year before. As a Cascades climber, I had some desert dreams but was too scared of sandstone to do the adventure trips following the book would require. Too foreign, too strange. I admired his courage and persistence. May he rest in peace.

I just can't understand being this organized and well documented while teaching two people who had never climbed a mountain before. Who has time to take photos like that? Amazing trip report.

Trip: The Tooth - Indentured Servant Trip Date: 09/04/2022 Trip Report: It was another pleasant day out on the jawline of Snoqualmie Pass, another run up the new sport route on The Tooth. On the trail down, Yale and I chatted with a couple of guys from Poland who climbed the route after us, both named Bartek! It was the first time I'd spoken with a party who had done the route, so I was intrigued to know what they thought of it. They said they enjoyed it greatly, with pitches 4 and 5 particularly good. When I asked if they thought it had any loose rock, they just laughed and said I should climb in Europe for some loose rock. Yale and I didn't find anything loose this day, either. Some lichen, perhaps, but that should rub off with time! Bartek on p1, belayed by Bartek. Gear Notes: 12 qd Approach Notes: Denny Creek trail to a turnoff point among the switchbacks before Hemlock Pass.

Great photos! I was there a long time ago, good to see the area again. Thanks for the trip report.