[TR] Mt. Adams - North Ridge 6/25/2007

[Ptown_Climber1]

Trip: Mt. Adams - North Ridge

 

Date: 6/25/2007

 

Trip Report:

This trip report can pretty much be summed up by one line, which my climbing partners and I found ourselves pleading to the ping pong sky , the rocks, the sideways blowing snow, and each other as we trudged up to high camp from the Killen Creek trail head Sunday, "Mark Nelson!!!! Where are the freaking 'sun breaks' you forecasted?!!"

 

The gist of this story, as you might already have ascertained, is that we were denied a summit bid via North Ridge of Adams, but all the same, I will tell the story....

 

Dean (my Leuthold comrade in blissful misery) and I had been planning this climb for last couple months....North Ridge had long been on my 'to do' list.....it still is. Figuring that the 'showery' weather predicted would be just that, the three of us sallied forth on our original two day, Sunday-Monday climb date. Getting to Killen Creek trail head was pretty smooth. The road is still pretty washed out about a half mile before the actual trail head, but a rig with higher clearance could probably make it all the way in....we just weren't in the mood to donate a transmission to the erstwhile riverbed.

 

We embarked on the trail at 1:08 in a steady drizzle....not a good omen, as we would soon realize. After only about thirty minutes of hiking Dean realizes that the plastic rental boots he's wearing are digging gouges into his heels. He does a good job of trying to downplay it, but I know from experience that if you're needing moleskin before you've even broken a sweat, it's never a good sign; another bad omen.....

 

Dean toughs it out though, and we move onward and upwards.....the first mile or so of trail is still snow free, and we enjoyed the quiet, albeit wet, beauty of the forest canopy.Saw some really funky looking mushrooms, bobcat or coyote tracks.... Before long the trees grew smaller and the rain drops harder; we were nearing tree line-and snow line. I guess it was at this point that our climbing trip, which we'd planned as a summer climb, turned into an early Spring climb. The higher we got, the harder and more horizontal the snow became. Even so, we appreciated the pristine Adams Meadow and its gnarled pine islands helplessly overseeing the new summer wildflower blooms being coated in a fresh blanket of white. It was around this time we half seriously, half jokingly asked for the first of many times, "Mark Nelson! Where are our freaking sun breaks?!"

 

With the help of some modern technology (gps) and willful determination, we marched on into the clouds and snow, set on reaching the glacial lake at 7,500 feet that we'd been told serves as a good high camp for North Ridge. Around 5:30 or so (can't really recall), after trodding over many a dinner plate slab and other fun sorts of snow covered volcanic rubble, we set sight on lake. Finding a suitable place to camp was no easy task however, especially in the conditions. Eventually we settled on a small sandy patch, a respite tucked within the jagged mess of boulders and lava rock...there's no doubt that in better weather we'd of found something more worthy, as would become obvious the following day.

 

Cold and coated in ice, we established camp....Thanks go to chef Mark for cooking us up some grub in such conditions. I contributed the Patron tequila, and we huddled in the tent, as the weather raged on and discussed plans. The summit was seeming less and less likely. I knew the weather supposed to clear Monday, but the million dollar question would be how quickly this would occur. With Dean's bloody heals, he was already out. Just getting to high camp was admirable. (Dean, go get yourself a good pair of boots!) As I saw things, unless we saw stars at the 4AM wakeup call, this was not going to happen. I hadn't climbed north ridge before, and damn well wasn't going to do it in the clouds.

 

Throughout the night, snow and ice pelted out tent....(Mark Nelson! You suck!) When 4AM rang, it was quiet...a good sign? Maybe, but as I protruded my head from our toasty hovel it was easy to see we were still socked in. Easy call I figured....go back to sleep....forget the summit.

 

Of course the story doesn't end there. At 8:00 I wake up, peek outside and am blinded by this strange orb -the sun! The sky is a cloudless,cobalt blue, winds are calm, and Mt. Adams north face, in all its glory taunts me with its seemingly close proximity. It's picture postcard view, and in the end, made the whole thing worth it. Of course, prideful climber that I am, despite the knowledge deep down that we've missed our boat for the early alpine start, I ask Mark..."Whaddaya think?"

 

After some mulling over, we move at a snail's pace to make breakfast, filter water, and pack up for at least an exploration of the north ridge. So, at the pathetic hour of 9:00, we trudge out of camp and make way for North Ridge. The views of Rainier, St. Helens, and Goat Rocks off in the distance are stunning. And after an hour or so we reached the base of the cleaver. Mark, being a fairly novice climber,was content to call it a day at that point....of course to me, the climb was just getting interesting! But, in respect of the time of day and my climbing partners, I knew it was not meant for me to go solo on up the ridge, and after some scrambling up to scout the route for next time, I did what for me is a very hard thing -turned around. The mountain will be there, and I (we?) will be back....

 

Out of curiosity, for those of you that have climbed it....it seemed to me that at least initially the route crawls up along the climber's left of first gendarmes, and I did that, but I know it's been pointed out that the route bears west (climber's right)around most obstacles....that was interesting to me, because, at least lower down, it seems like the easiest approaches were on the left....any thoughts on that for next time?

 

The descent was uneventful, but extremely scenic. Dean's heels survived the march back to the car, no doubt motivated by the cold beers waiting for us there. Thanks guys for a great adventure....we'll get it right next time! Here's a few photos:

 

 

Our lovely camp site!

 

 

 

Close to my 'high point'...argh!

 

Gear Notes:

ice axe, cramp ons just in case, helmet a must- lots of loose rocks -big ones!

 

Approach Notes:

Killen Creek trailhead...road washed out half mile before it...passable for trucks with high clearance.

Edited June 26, 2007 by Ptown_Climber1

[Couloir]

Great TR! Yep, whenever it seems impassable, go to your right and it'll open up for you.

 

"Patron tequila"

[devinejohnny]

I recall being on both sides of the ridge at times. I think it can depend on the snow. Some blocks we passed on the left on the way up, but passed them on the opposite side on the way down. I guess I agree that scouting right is the best plan.

[hefeweizen]

Alright, so based on those pics, who wants to go ski either Adams or Lava glacier? Great pics by the way.

[Winter]

Yeah I was gonna say the Adams galcier looks tasty right now.

[NShighlander]

A day removed from boot hell and I am still bitter at who ever designed those Asolo boots! Saying that they SUCK is a huge under statement!

 

That said though, Monday morning was one of those mornings that don't come along very often! As Kris and Mark made an attempt on the summit, I hobbled around taking photos from the base of the mountain in pristine conditions!

 

If you gotta have an up side to a trip, this is the way to have it!

The Adams Glacier looks awesome BTW!

 

If interested, check out a bunch of photos and other ramblings at

 

http://homepage.mac.com/maclean/Adams/index.html

 

[Fairweather]

Yeah I was gonna say the Adams galcier looks tasty right now.

 

That last schrund/crevasse at the top doesn't look like it will be easily crossable for much longer.

[letsroll]

too bad about the trip. Nice adventure. Adams glacier is looking tasty Next week maybe.

[ilookeddown]

FYI Adams Glacier 7/1

 

 

[XXX]

FYI Adams Glacier 7/1

 

 

 

So is Adams glacier doable the next few weeeks?

 

T