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#593434 - 08/31/06 04:19 PM
[TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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marcus
member
Registered: 11/25/02
Posts: 168
Loc: Portland, OR
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Climb: Nooksack Tower-North Face(Bertulis Route)
Date of Climb: 8/28/2006
Trip Report:
Darin(dberdinka)and myself hiked in to an awesome bivy with running water ca. 5800' on ridge. Recommend this over bivy sites at toe of route. Next morning 90 minutes across Price Glacier, contoured low to turn schrund on far right. Three belayed pitches off the deck to three simul-blocks and then three belayed pitches to finish. At P12 or P13 area we descended ledges west slightly in order to access "strenuous lieback crack" described in CAG - actually a loose corner(I think 'strenuous' refers to the mental aspect) that brought us to the upper ridge.
Do not rap off slings on summit into wide couloir below! Instead downclimb ridge(150ft?) to first of many jinky rat's nest rap stations, trending first skier's left, then right. After about a dozen rope-eater raps, we came to the 'Beckey' couloir. To celebrate the ~1200ft of ice/neve we now had to descend, I launched one poon sailing into a bottomless moat and the other one bouncing down the couloir. It still seemed too easy, so with a couple hours of daylight still left we jammed one end of a rope into a moat so well we had to cut it. We rapped the rock band to the east, where a snow bridge across the schrund defied the laws of gravity long enough for us to scamper across. From there we did the One Poon Lindy Hop(Darin, thanks for the patient belay!) through slots back to our happy bivy.
  
Gear Notes:
Single set to 4", pins, stoppers and tri-cams.
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#593435 - 08/31/06 04:47 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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layton
sprayer
Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6286
Loc: Salt Lake City
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I like Darin's alpine banana climbing action suit
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#593437 - 08/31/06 08:34 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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dberdinka
veteran
Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 1294
Loc: Bellingham
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Thanks Mike, thanks a lot.
More photos
The glorious approach
Marcus about halfway up route
Sunrise as the weather moves in Ruth on L, Icy on R
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#593438 - 08/31/06 08:50 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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John Frieh
spray'prentice
Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 4627
Loc: PDX
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Nice pics and nice tick guys 
MD: did you wear your spantiks? New backpack too? What is going on??? 
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#593440 - 08/31/06 09:20 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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dberdinka
veteran
Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 1294
Loc: Bellingham
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ALPINE rock!
Proud, proud hunk of greenschist
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#593441 - 09/01/06 12:05 AM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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JoshK
sprayer
Registered: 07/09/02
Posts: 5336
Loc: Seattle
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I dropped a crampon in the Price Glacier a few years ago and had to do that exact same one poon hop all the way back to camp. I remember getting a great workout for my left calf. 
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#593442 - 09/01/06 08:13 AM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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climbaround
journeyman
Registered: 06/11/03
Posts: 59
Loc: Lake Stevens
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Nice TR with good beta, and fantastic photos dberdinka! Thanks 
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#593443 - 09/01/06 11:46 AM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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Weekend_Climberz
spray'prentice
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3340
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
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Nice trip and awesome photos
Was that taken with a panoramic camera or pieced together several photos. That sunset shot is stellar.
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#593448 - 09/01/06 02:00 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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tyree
enthusiast
Registered: 07/11/02
Posts: 272
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Nice work guys! Those are some sweet pics. 
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#593451 - 09/01/06 05:19 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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iain
Spray Master
Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 11556
Loc: PORTLAND, OREGON
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I see a lot of folks cheering about Nooksack Tower on here, but I want to know who has stood on top of that thing twice 
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#593452 - 09/01/06 05:33 PM
Re: [TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006
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Choada_Boy
old hand
Registered: 09/05/05
Posts: 753
Loc: Your Mom's House
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Quote:
Can you stop it with the fucking "huzzah!" shit already 
I do feel that these fine Gentlemen deserve an exclamation of approbation. Huzzah!! Huzzah!!
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