last tuesday

Very cool, looks like they're getting more precip up there. It was damn bony up there in March.

Just a quick update on the conditions: the runnels were not in as on Sunday. A strong team couldn't make it up, and we decided to take the
bypass rather than wait to be the third in line to try the runnels. Ultimately, all four teams took the bypass. There was a small patch of ice at
the entrance of the route, and a smear here and there on the bypass, and again on the exit pitch out of the second couloir. We could not
place any screws though. One of the teams dislodged a huge block that was loose just before where the rap anchor to drop down to the
second couloir is. This block was a disaster waiting to happen, and luckily, no damage was done.

It would've been more fun had the runnels been in, but the route is in good shape otherwise.

PS: I'm trying to get pics from the others - may be a TR will follow then.

when we were there last week, we built the rap anchor after the ramp in your pic above (pin,nut,sling, red webbing). Aaron and justin took the lower ramp and found an anchor already in place. Perhaps the lower ramp is the more heavily travelled option, thus explaining the death blocks. Last week everything was frozen solid, so loose blocks werent much of an issue.

Suckbm and I tried to do the runnels and I took a 20 foot fall out of them. Fell about 8 feet vertical and then found myself upside down on my back. I slid upsidedown, down the ice for the remainder of the ride. Had one picket blow, and another that I placed in sugar snow hold. We came back down and then did the variation. Good to meet up with all of you and it was fun climbing together. I don't have too many picks but pm me your email and I'll get all of you pics. Plus I would like some too. -Craig

Suckbm in first Couloir.



Suckbm belaying just before I fell.



Kurt Hicks, Suckbm, and LittleGorilla, and I think the 4th is Pup On the Mountain



Entering the white out. On descent it was a complete white out, couldnt tell the ground from air at times.

Get a haircut, hippie!

Just kidding. Glad you guys got out; I've been keeping my eye on the temps up there, and I'm surprised that there isn't more ice.

Glad you guys made it work, looks like it was fun.

I already took about 4" off.


pup on the mountain starting up the first couloir


The Hilary step crux. Craig in the background, Bala climbing.


The second couloir conga line


It was a great time climbing with all of you guys. I hope your beds were more restful than our post-climb bivy in the rest area by Quincy!

Upside down on your back. I wonder who you learned that technique from?

Hows Colchuck Lake looking? Can you still walk across it?

the lake was nice and frozen last week - drank the better part of a bottle of whiskey while strolling across it - almost made the rest of the walk not hurt...almost.

lots of pools of water on the east side, but pretty ok on the right (west) third of it or so.

It was fun to meet and climb with you guys as well!

I've a few more pics up here. Didn't get (m)any cool ones thanks to the overcast conditions.

Man, I was all excited to throw a M-80 in that lake last winter, we got the camera ready, lit it, then poof! Nothing! Frikkin suckbm's friends were living with me and dropped it in a glass of beer!
Looks like you guys had fun.
-the kat

right next door to tc, pat and i tried dragontail madness last week - fun route, and if you like dry-tooling (having honed yer skillz on the non-existent ice of tc) try moving one coulior over

here's the crux (big ass crack left of center - looks like it'll take a #6 though the beckey guide said 'chocks to 2 inches') and pat on the snowfield traversing over to it

So how far up did you guys get? Didnt look like much ice was on it.

i think it's basically a winter/spring rock route - the original ascent was in april and was mostly on rock - would love to hear from anyone else who's done it as i've never seen a tr on it - we bivied in a cool snow cave formed by a huge flake and guarded by a big tree, just above the lower snow/ice field - climbing a pithc above that the next day to a point a pithc or so below the crux (which is that wide crack/chimney looking thing well left of the ice drip) - my partner didn't have any experience with dry-tooling and wasn't jazzed about the prospect of having to bail higher up if need be, so that was that - just getting back into the hidden coulior and downclimbing the ice there was entertaining though

The Dragontail Madness Route

The route. Green below bivvy, red above. Purple is a mistake in the Beckey guide photo.



Signage



Why do I always get a snot clearing photo?



Eric traverses to the bivvy: the big tree/snow patch up and right.



Ahh. All warm and comfy. You?



Eric? Hello?



Just beneath the bail point



Fucking ice tool! On rappel…sort of.