Chipping to make a Climb HARDER - CascadeClimbers.com

You are not logged in. [Log In] CascadeClimbers.com » Forums » General Discussion » Rock Climbing Forum » Chipping to make a Climb HARDER

Mountain Pr0n

PB070627
Contributed by: justinp
more photos

Supporting Sponsors

MENS | WOMENS

Alpine Light Down Parka 14.4oz

CC.com Articles *READ ME!*

Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Back Country Skiing
Metolius Offset Review
Equipment for Alpinism
Showcase : Integral Designs Reflexion Bivy

PayPal

Who's Online

8 Registered (corvallisclimb, pup_on_the_mountain, Rad, 4 invisible), 8 Guests and 0 Spiders online.

Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod

Forum Stats

18154 Members
53 Forums
72721 Topics
944417 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM

Top TR Contributors

ivan	69
tvashtarkatena	64
off_the_hook	61
telemarker	48
G-spotter	47
catbirdseat	46
gapertimmy	42
Feck	41
layton	38
Blake	38

Page 1 of 2

Topic Options

Rate This Topic

#496590 - 09/07/05 09:04 AM Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
catbirdseat Elite Sprayforce Team Registered: 10/09/02 Posts: 13179 TRs: 46 Photos: 144 Loc: Anaheim, CA	I've seen discussions about holds that have been chipped to make a climb easier. Has anyone ever seen a route that was deliberately made harder by chipping? If there are holds that are loose and likely to pull out and fall on a belayer, I can see the logic in removing them for safety sake, but otherwise no. And I am sure there are lots of people who would say that if it can't be removed by hand it should be removed. I'm sure that the standard must vary from crag to crag. _________________________ You don't do an encore if you just played Mahler.
Top

#496591 - 09/07/05 09:05 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
kurthicks Pooh-Bah Registered: 04/22/03 Posts: 1937 TRs: 18 Photos: 245 Loc: Der Town	There have been climbs at Smiff that have been FILLED to make them harder. Somewhere in the Cocaine Gulley, IIRC. _________________________ http://www.kurthicks.com
Top

#496592 - 09/07/05 09:09 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
Matt_Anderson enthusiast Registered: 04/04/01 Posts: 373 TRs: 3 Photos: 36 Loc: Seattle, WA USA	wasn't that the whole point of scarface?
Top

#496593 - 09/07/05 09:14 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
catbirdseat Elite Sprayforce Team Registered: 10/09/02 Posts: 13179 TRs: 46 Photos: 144 Loc: Anaheim, CA	Quote: wasn't that the whole point of scarface? Please elaborate. _________________________ You don't do an encore if you just played Mahler.
Top

#496594 - 09/07/05 09:49 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
Matt_Anderson enthusiast Registered: 04/04/01 Posts: 373 TRs: 3 Photos: 36 Loc: Seattle, WA USA	My recollection is that Franklin took a crow bar to a large flake because the flake made the climb easier than he wanted. His activities created the scar that is the climb's name sake. I'd heard he was set on doing a .14. Ironically, I hear most people who do it consider it .13d, not .14. Disclaimer - based on long ago reading of the Smith guidebook, rumor, inuendo, etc.
Top

#496595 - 09/07/05 10:00 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
Alex spray'prentice Registered: 10/18/00 Posts: 4012 TRs: 21 Photos: 79 Loc: Seattle, WA, USA	I thought scarface was initially rated 14c?
Top

#496596 - 09/07/05 10:00 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
RuMR Spray Master Registered: 04/26/02 Posts: 11080 TRs: 0 Photos: 61 Loc: Seattle	it was significantly harder when scott did it then in its present state... _________________________ DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO
Top

#496597 - 09/07/05 10:43 AM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
catbirdseat Elite Sprayforce Team Registered: 10/09/02 Posts: 13179 TRs: 46 Photos: 144 Loc: Anaheim, CA	I suppose what would make a more interesting discussion would be the degree to which one should clean a route of possible loose rock. Lots of places this isn't really an issue, but some places it is, for example North Bend and Vantage. When is one going too far? There are routes in Vantage where you'd never see the end of it when cleaning and just have to quit and say "good enough". _________________________ You don't do an encore if you just played Mahler.
Top

#496598 - 09/07/05 12:55 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
Matt_Anderson enthusiast Registered: 04/04/01 Posts: 373 TRs: 3 Photos: 36 Loc: Seattle, WA USA	How was scarface altered after Franklin climbed it?
Top

#496599 - 09/07/05 12:57 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
mec addicted to cc.com Registered: 04/11/05 Posts: 674 TRs: 1 Photos: 0 Loc: 40,000 feet	just think, if we were kayakers, we would be arguing about if we should remove the fallen trees from the middle of rivers. How much cleaning is acceptable? This will always be a debate. _________________________ I have discovered that all human evil comes from this, man's being unable to sit still in a room.
Top

#496600 - 09/07/05 01:44 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
TrogdortheBurninator Pooh-Bah Registered: 04/02/04 Posts: 1860 TRs: 20 Photos: 101 Loc: Between Ricks and the Vu	How do you judge how loose is loose enough to clean/leave (CBS says removeable by hand; is that pulling, hanging, prying)? If you are leaving semi-loose blocks, is it ethical/unethical to glue in place? Is the standard different on sport climbs vs adventure climbs? Often cleaning looseish rock will make a climb harder and safer, is that better than easier but more dangerous? _________________________ "Burninating the Country Side, Burninating the Peasants" http://www.zclipped.com
Top

#496601 - 09/07/05 01:56 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
catbirdseat Elite Sprayforce Team Registered: 10/09/02 Posts: 13179 TRs: 46 Photos: 144 Loc: Anaheim, CA	On adventure climbs people are more inclined to leave things as they are found, at least in part because of the constraints of time, but also because there are fewer "bystanders" to be concerned about. Obviously, you have to avoid trundling on your belayer. So it comes down to whether the follower feels like doing a good turn by trundling an occasional loose hold. _________________________ You don't do an encore if you just played Mahler.
Top

#496602 - 09/07/05 02:08 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
RuMR Spray Master Registered: 04/26/02 Posts: 11080 TRs: 0 Photos: 61 Loc: Seattle	Quote: How was scarface altered after Franklin climbed it? Several of the pockets have gotten deeper/larger from "overuse"...nothing deliberate...in the early 90's the mono, in particular, was quite shallow and set up to pull straight down on only...now, you can stack in it (guess that would make it a "1 1/2 finger" pocket) as well as pull on it in a gaston fashion...this is very very different from the original climb...its particularly noticeable in older pics... _________________________ DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO
Top

#496603 - 09/07/05 02:22 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
TrogdortheBurninator Pooh-Bah Registered: 04/02/04 Posts: 1860 TRs: 20 Photos: 101 Loc: Between Ricks and the Vu	Rumr, that is crazy that a climb this new and hard could get overused that fast. I've only been to smith once; is this type of extreme wear typical of most tuff routes, only more disguised in jug hauls than a route as precise as this? How often does this get climbed? I guess it is probably sort of exponential in wear though because the easier it gets, the more traffic it gets. Maybe one day when it is 5.7 I will be able to climb it. _________________________ "Burninating the Country Side, Burninating the Peasants" http://www.zclipped.com
Top

#496604 - 09/07/05 02:32 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
RuMR Spray Master Registered: 04/26/02 Posts: 11080 TRs: 0 Photos: 61 Loc: Seattle	this new? jeezus, it was put up in the late 80's... easier routes won't focus on the same itty bitty hold over and over... _________________________ DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO
Top

#496605 - 09/07/05 02:41 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
TrogdortheBurninator Pooh-Bah Registered: 04/02/04 Posts: 1860 TRs: 20 Photos: 101 Loc: Between Ricks and the Vu	I guess I was just thinking something 14c initially, even over 20 years (saw the ref to early 90s in your other post and assumed ~10 yrs) wouldn't see enough traffic to really wear hard. Didn't think about the fact that each hold is that much more critical at those grades. _________________________ "Burninating the Country Side, Burninating the Peasants" http://www.zclipped.com
Top

#496606 - 09/07/05 02:45 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
Geek_the_Greek addicted to cc.com Registered: 03/14/02 Posts: 453 TRs: 1 Photos: 1 Loc: Where the wild things are	?? Scarface was never .14c. It was .14a at first, with much hoopla about it being the first 5.14 established by an American. Then it was downgraded to .13d...
Top

#496607 - 09/07/05 02:48 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
Alpinfox consummate douchebag Registered: 03/05/02 Posts: 5185 TRs: 21 Photos: 321	Quote: Quote: How was scarface altered after Franklin climbed it? Several of the pockets have gotten deeper/larger from "overuse"...nothing deliberate...in the early 90's the mono, in particular, was quite shallow and set up to pull straight down on only...now, you can stack in it (guess that would make it a "1 1/2 finger" pocket) as well as pull on it in a gaston fashion...this is very very different from the original climb...its particularly noticeable in older pics... Sounds fishy to me. _________________________ If'n the creek don't rise, we be a'ight.
Top

#496608 - 09/07/05 03:04 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
RuMR Spray Master Registered: 04/26/02 Posts: 11080 TRs: 0 Photos: 61 Loc: Seattle	Quote: ?? Scarface was never .14c. It was .14a at first, with much hoopla about it being the first 5.14 established by an American. Then it was downgraded to .13d... Actually, scott had graded it at french 8c = 14a/b or b depending on the scale you look at... _________________________ DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO
Top

#496609 - 09/07/05 05:28 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
ashw_justin spray'prentice Registered: 11/21/03 Posts: 2554 TRs: 3 Photos: 22 Loc: Behind the Sev'	So if you add a bolt to a route, does it make it harder? Clipping wastes valuable strength and energy. No, I'm serious... I bet some redpoints are made easier by clipping only the crux bolt. Is that done? _________________________
Top

#496610 - 09/07/05 05:30 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
chucK sprayer Registered: 01/12/01 Posts: 5917 TRs: 20 Photos: 60 Loc: the ruthless 9 to 5	No (to your first question)
Top

#496611 - 09/07/05 06:44 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
TrogdortheBurninator Pooh-Bah Registered: 04/02/04 Posts: 1860 TRs: 20 Photos: 101 Loc: Between Ricks and the Vu	Quote: So if you add a bolt to a route, does it make it harder? Clipping wastes valuable strength and energy. No, I'm serious... I bet some redpoints are made easier by clipping only the crux bolt. Is that done? I was thinking a similar thing once. Trad climbing is often more strenuous than sport climbing because of the extra energy required to place gear compared to clipping a bolt. Free soloing on the other hand, arguably the most traditional form of climbing, is by this analogy the least strenuous form of climbing. So... we should all start soloing above our trad limit It seems people often skip bolts on hard climbs if they are pumped, so your crux only clipping analogy might just be an extreme case of this. _________________________ "Burninating the Country Side, Burninating the Peasants" http://www.zclipped.com
Top

#496612 - 09/07/05 07:14 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
bwrts addicted to cc.com Registered: 07/26/05 Posts: 544 TRs: 0 Photos: 14 Loc: Washington State	Ask Chris Sharma about clipping the crux bolts on the route called "realization" in France. Apparently, he took repeated "whippers" while trying to redpoint the route prior to his success a few years ago. cbs- how would "chipping" make a climb harder?
Top

#496613 - 09/07/05 10:20 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
catbirdseat Elite Sprayforce Team Registered: 10/09/02 Posts: 13179 TRs: 46 Photos: 144 Loc: Anaheim, CA	Perhaps chipping was not the word I was looking for. Is there a word for using a hammer to break off sharp edges that might be used as holds? _________________________ You don't do an encore if you just played Mahler.
Top

#496614 - 09/07/05 11:05 PM Re: Chipping to make a Climb HARDER
EWolfe Spray Master Registered: 04/21/03 Posts: 10539 TRs: 3 Photos: 558	Quote: this new? jeezus, it was put up in the late 80's... easier routes won't focus on the same itty bitty hold over and over... Plus Smith is welded Tuff - basically compacted ash. Much more suceptible to erosion through use and ahem constant brushing.
Top

Page 1 of 2

Previous Topic

Index

Next Topic

Hop to:

Moderator: gapertimmy, Off_White, Peter_Puget

Generated in 1.016 seconds in which 0.903 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Zlib compression enabled.