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#50620 - 05/09/01 10:59 AM Static Point report
chucK Moderator Offline
sprayer

Registered: 01/12/01
Posts: 5917
TRs: 20 Photos: 60
Loc: the ruthless 9 to 5
Went up to Static Point on Sunday. We got there real early since the good weather tempted us to deviate from our original plan (Snow Creek Wall). When we got to the wall (about 7:30 am) there was water everywhere, and graupel snow on most ledges.

We were able to get around most of the water and made our way over to Fuddhat. There was a small pond at the Spaceport! Fuddhat is way cool with some pure friction. Making your way around the water streaks added some sport. There was one spot on the third pitch we called the "veil of tears". The veil was a uniform striping of thin dripstreaks coming from a horizontal seep point. It was a bold lead to delicately pick your way across trying to find the driest features. Most of the mashed bolts have been replaced with the exception of one fairly key one (protects a relatively big runout) on p3 with a munged hanger. It's still clippable but unknown if the bolt is compromised.

We climbed the first pitch of "Kill da Wabbit" (Sky Rock guide name. Nelson guide calls it p4 of Fuddhat). It's a nice pitch of sustained face climbing. There's some loose crap near the start (stay right), but it seemed solid above. We replaced the missing hanger on the fifth bolt (rusty 5/16"'ers). We retreated before the steep and intimidating final pitch. It looks really cool. I'm kicking myself now (my courage grows with distance from the rock), but at the time the guidebooks' 10c or 10d ratings had us pretty intimidated.

On our way up I noted where the rockfall that munged the bolts came from. It was this HUGE piece of rock (bus size?) below the Curious-Cube roof. I climbed right on top of that thing when doing the Cube two years back. It was a big roofy thing crisscrossed with sharp jamcracks and a verythin flake at the top. I guess it is now down at the base, probably in a million pieces. Anybody been up to attempt "the Cube" since? I wonder if we got the LA (last ascent)? We did it in Oct. 99.

By about noon or so most of the drips had dried. We cruised up Lost Charms then rapped down through 3 parties inhabiting the Online area. One of which consisted of two CC contributors with good webpages.

chucK


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#50621 - 05/09/01 11:07 AM Re: Static Point report
Cpt.Caveman Offline
sprayer

Registered: 04/18/01
Posts: 9633
TRs: 5 Photos: 0
Chuck first of all nice report. Second of all try getting some liquid courage with Ole Grandad at the base if you can. It worx for me

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#50622 - 05/10/01 05:35 PM Re: Static Point report
mneagle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/27/01
Posts: 304
TRs: 6 Photos: 91
Loc: Fort Collins, CO
In the Rock CLimbing Washington book, it shows a line leading from the rappel anchors of On Line to "The Mohawk", which appears to be a swath of trees over the dome. Is there any reason to go up there and is there another descent route?

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#50623 - 05/10/01 06:03 PM Re: Static Point report
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4008
TRs: 21 Photos: 79
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
From the top of Offline/Online, its a half-to-full-pitch of unprotected or "maybe protected" mid-fifth friction to get to the trees (the Mohawk). But since the decent for these routes and Lost Charms is to rap either Online or Offline, you'd just be coming back down again in another 15 minutes. I don't think many people do that last pitch, its quire unremarkable compared to the pitches below.

There is no walk off a la Snow Creek Wall.

Currently, the second station on Offline is missing rings, so I left a biner, but you might want to take some extra rings or quicklinks for some of these stations.

Alex


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#50624 - 05/12/01 06:09 PM Re: Static Point report
Blight Offline
n00b

Registered: 01/24/01
Posts: 43
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Chuck et al,

The whole place was dry and deserted on Saturday. As for the last pitch (5th) of KDR (what I believe Nelson calls Fuddhat even though it veers off right of Fuddhat), too bad you didn't finish it. As Nelson says, the climbing is excellent, but completely different than the previous 4 pitches - spot on! The climbing on that last pitch is much more secure than most of the friction below - if you got that far, you would have no problem with the last pitch. Personally, I thought the crux was down low on one of the featureless sections. However, it may have been mental since it was pretty warm when we were climbing.

cheers!


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