Deschutes BLM Management Plan

[gapertimmy]

http://www.or.blm.gov/Prineville/Deschutes_RMP/Final_EIS.htm

 

The plan above is open for public comment right now. The BLM here manages a few areas of interest to climbers: Marsupial Ridge area at Smith Rock, Sisters Climbing Area, as well as some caves in the area were some bolted lines exist. There are 3 .pdf's available for viewing at the above site, but for your reading convenience i have snipped the following tid bits related to our past time:

 

--executive summary--

exec summary

Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is an extremely popular activity at Smith Rock State Park and on adjacent

BLM-administered lands. These lands include some of the routes in the Upper Gorge

area, where the columnar basalt columns along the river provide climbing opportunities.

In general, these routes are not as heavily used as the routes in the Lower Gorge area that

are on the west side of the river and close to the parking area at Smith Rock State Park.

BLM-administered lands also include the Marsupial Crags, rock spires located east of the

road locally known as “Burma Road”. Because this area is more diffi cult to access from

the State Park center, it likely receives fewer visitors. At one time, these routes were more

accessible, but the Burma Road was closed to motor vehicles in 1994, and this climbing

area must now be reached by foot.

The level of use and lack of maintenance on user trails on BLM-administered lands

adjacent to Smith Rock State park has resulted in vegetation disturbance and soil erosion

in some areas. At Marsupial Crags, the access trails are located on steep and loose slopes,

and have resulted in erosion, which is visible from a considerable distance.

Another climbing area of note within the planning area is the Sisters Bouldering Area,

a 120-acre parcel of BLM-administered lands northeast of Sisters in Fremont Canyon.

Although this area is designated as “Open” in the 1989 Brothers/ La Pine FEIS/PRMP,

some roads into the parcel have been blocked with logs that defi ne a parking area near

the main climbing boulders. The Fremont Canyon area has a combination of BLM, State,

County and private land ownership. Land exchange proposals for blocking up federal

lands have been considered in the past, as Deschutes County has sought to sell county

holdings in the area. These efforts have been unsuccessful, and the sale and residential

development of lands adjacent to this climbing area is likely.

Pictograph Cave was developed with sport climbing routes in the early 1990s. Many

routes were developed in the cave, with a total of about 80 bolt placements (drilled

holes with expansion bolts and small metal plates or hangers) to protect climbers.

Climbing route development in Pictograph Cave occurred about the same time as

route development in other caves managed by the Deschutes National Forest. The

development of climbing routes in these caves has resulted in confl icts between climbers,

cavers, and others interested in cave management and cultural resources. Specifi c cave

management strategies on the Deschutes National Forest have been assessed in the

Road 18 Cave Management Strategy EA. Pictograph Cave is currently closed to all uses,

pending completion of the FEIS/PRMP.

--end--

 

Caves

Pictograph Cave would be closed seasonally (October 15 – May 1) for bat hibernacula

and other resource values. The cave would be closed to the installation of bolted climbing

routes. All existing bolts and climbing hardware would be removed and the cave would

be managed under Leave No Trace principles. The use and/or possession of chalk or

visually apparent hand-drying agents would also be prohibited in Redmond Caves.

 

Road Access Of Note

Smith Rock

The entire block would be closed to motorized vehicles. Additional non-motorized trails

may be created both to solve resource issues at climbers’ trails and to meet demand for

hiking, mountain biking, and equestrian trail opportunities.

Trail development would be coordinated with SRSP and CRNG. Trails would be

designed and located to protect resources and scenic values.

 

Proposed Reccomendations in Plan

PICTOGRAPH CAVE

reccomendations:

Allocations/Allowable Uses:

1. Recreation:

A. Bolted climbing routes would not be allowed.

B. Pictograph Cave would be closed seasonally (October 15 – May 1) for bat

hibernacula.

 

Guidelines:

1. Manage cave access for hike-in visitation only. No developed or designated roads

or trails would be built to provide access to the cave site. No designated parking

area would be provided.

2. Place signs at the cave informing visitors of cave management policy.

3. Remove all existing bolts and climbing hardware and manage the cave under Leave

No Trace principles.

 

SISTERS BOULDERING AREA

Objective R – 5: Provide for projects, programs, and permits that promote a diverse

range of recreation opportunities. Provide for individual, group, and competitive event

recreational use that could not be reasonably accommodated on private land.

Guidelines:

1. If disposal/exchange of isolated BLM parcels west of Squaw Creek is made a priority,

work with local climbing organizations and national groups such as the Access Fund

to maintain the Sisters Bouldering area (Fremont Canyon) as a publicly accessible

climbing opportunity.

2. The Sisters Bouldering area would be managed specifi cally for climbing use, and

would be identifi able as BLM administered land.

 

SMITH ROCK AREA

Allocations/Allowable Uses:

Allow development of additional trails to reduce impacts at climbing areas and to

provide additional mountain bike, hiking, and equestrian use opportunities.

Guidelines:

1. Develop alternative access to BLM administered lands adjacent to Smith Rock State

Park if:

A. Trails in Smith Rock State Park are closed to mountain bikes

B. North Unit Canal is identifi ed as a regional trail corridor.

2. Coordinate trail development with SRSP and CRNG.

3. Trails would be designed and located to protect resources and scenic values.

 

 

 

details at the site are available for those wishing to comment

[sk]

this doesn't look like a bad thing at first glance. it is important with heavily used areas to manage resorces

 

Personaly, I like that it is a long hike to the marcupials... keeps the turists away.

[Ducknut]

Timm@y

 

It is already a FINAL document. BLM has not yet signed the Record of Decision and won't until all the protests are resolved. Everyone should read the instructions at http://www.or.blm.gov/Prineville/Deschutes_RMP/comments_protest_instructions.htm. There is a fine line between what you can protest now versus implementation actions that you'll have to protest in the future.

[gapertimmy]

definately i think there are some good things in the document regarding climbers/access, but i feel folks that use these places need to be aware of what the land management agencies are planning and doing.

 

interesting how they still outline all of the options, yet this is a final document.

 

i think anyone that has been out to the marsupials would agree that some trail work is needed to prevent further de-vegiation and erosion.

[sk]

definately i think there are some good things in the document regarding climbers/access, but i feel folks that use these places need to be aware of what the land management agencies are planning and doing.

 

interesting how they still outline all of the options, yet this is a final document.

 

i think anyone that has been out to the marsupials would agree that some trail work is needed to prevent further de-vegiation and erosion.

trail maintnece is a good thing, do you know if they are working with the Smith Rock Group on any of this???

[kurthicks]

so would they allow climbing at Pictograph caves with Rebolts and no chalk? I'm going to look more into this stuff, but it looks pretty reasonable.

[Mike_G]

trail maintnece is a good thing, do you know if they are working with the Smith Rock Group on any of this???

 

We met last night, actually, and this came up again for possible inclusion in the Spring Thing (on May 7th, 2005, by the way). One of the members has had some recent contact with the BLM, and it sounds like they may be receptive to working with us. However, we need to resolve some issues with insurance coverage for volunteers, etc.

 

If we do end up doing a project or two over in the Marsupials this spring, any input as to areas of most need? The most obvious one that comes to mind is Koala Rock.

[sk]

trail maintnece is a good thing, do you know if they are working with the Smith Rock Group on any of this???

 

We met last night, actually, and this came up again for possible inclusion in the Spring Thing (on May 7th, 2005, by the way). One of the members has had some recent contact with the BLM, and it sounds like they may be receptive to working with us. However, we need to resolve some issues with insurance coverage for volunteers, etc.

 

If we do end up doing a project or two over in the Marsupials this spring, any input as to areas of most need? The most obvious one that comes to mind is Koala Rock.

i second Koala rock. I haven't been out there in a while. Please keep us updated on what is going on and what the projects are for spring thing I can't wiat

[Winter]

I think the lower west side of the mudpile, maybe the backside of brogan, and definitely koala.