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#367082 - 06/26/04 07:13 PM Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
In the Smoke Bluffs
Lies a tiny crag named Lumberland.

The original "Lumberland" route (10a) has been recleaned and a bolted station added to replace the rotting treestump belay.

"Maple Cream" 10b/c 20m climbs the start of the GMB then moves right to two thin cracks. Mantle on diagonal crack above, wander up slab past 2 bolts then hand rail right to finish on top of Lumberland.

Gear to orange TCU size plus the already mentioned 2 bolts.

It took me 4 tries to redpoint so either I suck or it's 10c not 10b?

FA: Dru and snoboy. In fact I am chestbeating from snoboy's computer right now. I should log in as him and ban somebody!
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

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#367083 - 06/26/04 07:38 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
slothrop Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 05/27/01
Posts: 2277
TRs: 8 Photos: 29
Loc: Olympia
You mean you have to use bolts AND GEAR on the same climb? Whoa. My mind is reeling. Is that sport or trad? I'm so confused.
_________________________
you know the purpose of this message board is to exchange information not insults.

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#367084 - 06/26/04 08:54 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
RuMR Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 04/26/02
Posts: 11080
TRs: 0 Photos: 61
Loc: Seattle
oh...you're a funny one...
_________________________
DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO

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#367085 - 06/26/04 09:41 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
lummox Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 01/18/03
Posts: 4246
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Quote:

It took me 4 tries to redpoint so either I suck or it's 10c not 10b?



do you want an honest answer?
_________________________
lummox gots ta reprazent.

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#367086 - 06/26/04 09:58 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
snoboy Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 09/11/02
Posts: 4109
TRs: 4 Photos: 58
Loc: Here, right here.
Dru says, "Yes, I suppose an honest answer would be good."
_________________________
"Attention, the white zone is for weighting and unweighting only!"

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#367087 - 06/26/04 09:59 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
snoboy Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 09/11/02
Posts: 4109
TRs: 4 Photos: 58
Loc: Here, right here.
and dru also says

Quote:


YOU
ARE
ALL
SO
SUCK
THE
NODDDER
OH MY
GOD



_________________________
"Attention, the white zone is for weighting and unweighting only!"

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#367088 - 06/26/04 10:07 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
ClimbingH Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/03/03
Posts: 87
TRs: 0 Photos: 8
Loc: Almost in Mexico
Quote:

Quote:

It took me 4 tries to redpoint so either I suck or it's 10c not 10b?



do you want an honest answer?




There wouldn't much fun with too much honesty
_________________________
Respectfully, Suria Maria Martinez Huerez Ferdinandez

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#367089 - 06/26/04 10:14 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
it is hard to tear myself away from browsing the super secret moderator forums while logged in as snoboy to reply to this thread as myself

_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

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#367090 - 06/26/04 10:19 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Mer Offline
member

Registered: 02/17/01
Posts: 162
TRs: 1 Photos: 21
Loc: way above the chimney tops
Starts on GMB and finishes on lumberland? quel melange!
Did you give the others a scrub while you were there?

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#367091 - 06/26/04 10:23 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
yeah i cleaned lumberland up too
but then some of the dirt clods from maple cream went over on lumberland after

but... you could probably just tap them away with your nut tool on lead
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

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#367092 - 06/26/04 10:41 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Stemalot Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/22/04
Posts: 412
TRs: 1 Photos: 20
Loc: I am British and Columbian.
hey Dru, got some photo of your new cool route?
_________________________
We are what we repeatedly do.

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#367093 - 06/26/04 11:35 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
rossco Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/15/04
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: the mountains
Sweet! I soloed that route six years ago.

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#367094 - 06/27/04 08:43 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
So today Fern jumped on an old project that snoboy had scrubbed last year but never redpointed, and after an hour or two of work linked it together for an 11a/b first ascent. The route is just below Jug Slab in the Bluffs and climbs a copperhead seam thing past 3 bolts. w00t!

i think this is ferns hardest ever lead? anyways i fell off seconding...
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

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#367095 - 06/28/04 07:51 AM Re: Chest Beating New Route
EWolfe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 04/21/03
Posts: 10539
TRs: 3 Photos: 558
Mike Layton and I put up a six-pitch variation to the 12-pitch NE Arete of Dragontail Yesterday.

Diehedral 5.10bR


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#367096 - 06/28/04 01:19 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
fern Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/17/01
Posts: 2370
TRs: 8 Photos: 45
Quote:

i think this is ferns hardest ever lead? anyways i fell off seconding...




negative. hardest ever lead was 11worth 5.6

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#367097 - 06/28/04 01:29 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

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#367098 - 06/28/04 01:37 PM Re: Chest Beating New Route At squamish!!!!!
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
wait a second what about your lead back up the south couloir in hiking boots and aluminum crampons when the rap rope stuck?
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

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