Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors






CC.com Articles *READ ME!*
Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Back Country Skiing
Metolius Offset Review
Equipment for Alpinism
Showcase : Integral Designs Reflexion Bivy
Who's Online
10 registered (Good2Go, fran, hasbeen, dberdinka, Aalikz, JasonG, 3 invisible), 87 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Supporting CC.com
Forum Stats
25782 Members
52 Forums
95812 Topics
1122116 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 111
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
KaskadskyjKozak 86
JasonG 74
telemarker 68
Feck 67
wayne 60
G-spotter 56
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1108564 - 07/17/13 03:32 PM [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013
lunger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 365
TRs: 12 Photos: 131
Loc: see atoll
Trip: Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9

Date: 7/13/2013

Trip Report:
Rolf and I climbed this (likely) new route last weekend, provisional name = Fear and Loathing. Grade III (approx 6 pitches; we did 5 1/2 with a 70m), 5.9 adventure climbing on mostly solid (and well featured) Skagit gneiss. Another objective the next day turned us back, but we'll always have Terror. And loathing.

After the most enjoyable and casual 6.5 hour approach (it's an acquired taste) to our camp near the Chopping Block, we could look across lovely Crescent Creek basin at Mt Terror. Hard tellin' not knowin', a route up the face sure looked improbable. We took a casual approach, waiting for the sun to get on the rock (frosty night), and weighed a number of potential routes. The most viable options appeared to be the butresses on the left, center, and right. We agreed the most aesthetic was the buttress snaking up most directly to the summit. Our route - poorly marked in red - goes up the barely lit central buttress to the summit:



I didn't take v many pics, my camera was thawing out. And sorry ladies, no butt pics of Rolf on lead--he seemed to quickly disappear from view, as befits a rat.

For first lead, I won rock paper scissors, and got probably the best pitch of the route. Up a steep juggy corner (careful hold selection), then a rising, more solid and exposed ramp, that at times gave that familiar feeling of pushing you off toward the void. Some 5.9 on this pitch, an engaging exercise putting together the pieces. Looking down pitch 1.



Rolf's pitch 2 took the chimney/gully, 5.8 or 5.8+?, to a nice belay and decision point: the central buttress, or east buttress of the south face? We stuck with our original plan. For p 3, I hung a left and sent an easy boulder prob to gain the ridge crest and a spate of more sustained climbing before it relented to more wandery rambling. 5.8+ again? I stuck to the buttress crest, but there are certainly variations on this ledgy gneiss.

Looking down p3 from a belay on the crest, just below a prominent tower; you can see the east buttress off on the left.



Rolf's pitch 4 skirted the tower on the left; more moderate climbing, but also greater loose rock management. From his belay, I climbed some steeper rock (nice corners) and then ledge systems, carefully constraining the course of the rope to avoid dislodging some slayers. Super fun pitch, with fine air and views.

Top of p 5; mt despair central background.



For the last pitch, Rolf ran up a steepish blocky and juggy section, which then backed off to the remaining summit scramble. Nice views both ways along the Southern Pickets.
L to R: McMillan spires, Inspiration, Degenhardt Glacier.


We then boogied down the West Ridge route and then the couloir back to our packs. For fun and moderate climbing on mostly good rock, in a remote setting, I recommend this climb.

More pics.

Gear Notes:
Tri-cams useful. Brought pins but did not use.

Approach Notes:
Lovely walk to Crescent Creek basin. There's now a non-high-wire-walking log that takes you across Terror Creek.

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Wiz Headlamp
$12.98
Save 32%


Crag Glove Men's
$11.97
Save 40%


Black Diamond Boost Pack
$95.97
Save 36%


Black Diamond Octane Pack
$103.99
Save 31%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1108567 - 07/17/13 04:10 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3423
TRs: 60 Photos: 590
Loc: Seattle!
Ya for you guys!Nice to see this Pickets revival! Rolfs not showing his favorite finger though, not so cool. Next time.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

Top
#1108570 - 07/17/13 04:49 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 7397
TRs: 39 Photos: 811
Loc: Stony Brook, NY
Nice jorb! Glad to see Rolf hasn't succumbed to marketing pressure and still has the same classic helmet

Top
#1108579 - 07/17/13 07:01 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
Marko Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 12/09/00
Posts: 520
TRs: 4 Photos: 67
Loc: Ren. Ton.
Nice adventurin' lads
But don't forget to embrace the HYPE!

Top
#1108593 - 07/17/13 10:12 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: Marko]
Woodcutter Offline
member

Registered: 10/08/10
Posts: 165
TRs: 0 Photos: 22
...how about that casual 6.5 hour approach?
Any beta for the casual bushwhackershwacker????

Top
#1108599 - 07/18/13 02:17 AM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: Woodcutter]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
rocken

Top
#1108609 - 07/18/13 08:37 AM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2131
TRs: 23 Photos: 569
Loc: The Emerald City
tup tup tup
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1108629 - 07/18/13 11:50 AM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
tanstaafl Offline
Pretty Pretty Princess

Registered: 09/04/03
Posts: 465
TRs: 5 Photos: 69
Color me devastated by the lack of butt shots. What were you thinking?

Top
#1108633 - 07/18/13 12:43 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: tanstaafl]
telemarker Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1523
TRs: 68 Photos: 1006
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
Originally Posted By: tanstaafl
Color me devastated by the lack of butt shots. What were you thinking?



Get a room you two!
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

Top
#1108703 - 07/19/13 01:48 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
lunger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 365
TRs: 12 Photos: 131
Loc: see atoll
Haha mr marker, I think they prefer a tent. And wayne, the finger flying has flagged--it must be his rough edges are getting polished (credit: spouse), because i know i'm only get more annoying with time.

Thanks folks. People should check this out if they've got a day to burn up there--this is the McTech (McTerror) Arete of Crescent Creek Basin.

Woodcutter, the approach to Crescent Cr Basin is pretty well beaten in--seems to get a bit more so with passing time. But it is significantly harder to follow than the trail cutting right up to Terror Basin.

Aside from hanging onto the trail/track, the only other piece of key beta is the elev. 2000' log(s) crossing of Terror Creek. And for emphasis, after crossing, just make sure you pick up the track after each occasional blowdown obliteration. Once up on the Barrier, in general the track stays quite close to the crest; the airy cliffs/dropoffs on the climber's right side are a useful handrail.

Top
#1108707 - 07/19/13 02:11 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
JasonG Online   sleepy
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 1803
TRs: 74 Photos: 1068
Loc: Mount Vernon
Cool route! I wouldn't have guessed it was relatively moderate, that is a pretty hard looking wall. Strong work!
_________________________
<><

Top
#1108714 - 07/19/13 03:12 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
Summit_Rolos Offline
n00b

Registered: 06/19/01
Posts: 31
TRs: 2 Photos: 34
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
Nice work!

Top
#1108747 - 07/20/13 10:46 AM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: lunger]
curtveld Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/01/03
Posts: 989
TRs: 18 Photos: 181
Loc: Bellingham
Excellent to have a new way up that beast, especially a 'moderate' one! Even the standard West Ridge is seldom described as such.

Rock looks surprisingly solid and clean, but close inspection of the photos doesn't suggest an abundance of pro....?

Top
#1108751 - 07/20/13 12:34 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: curtveld]
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 7397
TRs: 39 Photos: 811
Loc: Stony Brook, NY
Originally Posted By: curtveld
Excellent to have a new way up that beast, especially a 'moderate' one! Even the standard West Ridge is seldom described as such.

Rock looks surprisingly solid and clean, but close inspection of the photos doesn't suggest an abundance of pro....?


Probably because Rolf's three cams got used in the belay

Top
#1108835 - 07/22/13 12:09 PM Re: [TR] Mt Terror, Southern Pickets - Central Buttress of South Face III 5.9 7/13/2013 [Re: curtveld]
lunger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 365
TRs: 12 Photos: 131
Loc: see atoll
Originally Posted By: curtveld
Excellent to have a new way up that beast, especially a 'moderate' one! Even the standard West Ridge is seldom described as such.

Rock looks surprisingly solid and clean, but close inspection of the photos doesn't suggest an abundance of pro....?


It is good climbing rock. I'd say the pro is there when you need it. Any perceived runouts in the pics are more a function of long pitches and voluntarily-spaced pro on the more moderate terrain.

Mike, we didn't use Rolf's bell-bottom-mural-van-era rack, but it would have suited the old school nature of the area...just around the corner to the east is the c. 1970 Firey route.

Top



Moderator:  chucK, mattp, Off_White, snoboy, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top