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#1068091 - 05/14/12 12:26 PM [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012
danhelmstadter Offline
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Registered: 08/22/07
Posts: 409
TRs: 88 Photos: 22
Loc: pnw
Trip: American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face, cbp - sw face

Date: 5/10-13/2012

Trip Report:
I took this photo from the summit of Pleiades in early February, at first glance, a ski line on the east face of ABP seems improbable, but the photo captivated my imagination and eventually provoked me to attempt ABP, Twice I made it to the summit of Winchester in April, getting shut down first by a nasty cold, then by stormy weather.

approximate route I climbed and skied on ABP (photo from feb 12)


On Thursday I went in heavy with extra food and gas. Bivying by the south face of Larrabee, the night was cold, and snow solid the next morning for the approach. The first sight of the east face of ABP was not inspiring. Conditions appeared to have deteriorated considerably since February - melted out and runnelled. I decided to keep circling 'round in hopes of more coverage on the NE aspect, there was. I climbed up moderate glaciated slopes for about a thousand feet, then went left onto the steep east face, following what appeared to be the least icy way. The way was complicated, a few times I thought I would dead end in a chute and have to back track, but it went, twisting and turning up chutes and ribs.
Conditions were a little scary. There was lots of icy slide worn neve, and lots of crust, with powder here and there shallowly burying the slickened neve.
There was just barely enough snow clinging to the summit nub to make it skiable. Exposure was intense, especially looking down the sheer ~1000' cliff of the west face. I clicked into my skis and cautiously made my way down. Lots of crust, ice, death balls, and edgy runnels made catching a tip and taking a slide for life a frightening possibility. Friendly snow conditions such as pow or corn would have made this a much different experience, instead I was on edge the whole time.
I headed back to my bivy feeling good, and decided to ski the cool looking southwest face of Canadian Border Peak the next day.
Approaching CBP was somewhat of a pain in the ass - probably just a few miles, but lots of up and down getting over cleavers of high basins. The SW face of CBP was fun to shred, much less serious than the east face of ABP, and conditions were ideal for fast turns. I skied the sw face from 50 feet below the summit where the snow ended.

The next morning I skied lookers left on south face of Larrabee, nice & friendly low stress conditions.

South West face CBP


Views from the summit of ABP


east face abp, no bueno


conditions low on abp


truns on moderate slopes down low on abp


north face of larrabee



abp from somewhere on cbp


view of international border


cool formations


I already miss the soft hazy red sunsets over Tomyhoi.


Edited by danhelmstadter (05/14/12 05:04 PM)

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#1068098 - 05/14/12 01:00 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
G-spotter Offline
Elite Sprayforce Team

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 14801
TRs: 56 Photos: 397
Loc: free range
GNAR GNAR!
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#1068100 - 05/14/12 01:03 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
G-spotter Offline
Elite Sprayforce Team

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 14801
TRs: 56 Photos: 397
Loc: free range
You got any shots of the east face of Tomyhoi?
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Bagging a cougar is one of the most enjoyable sporting feats a young man can accomplish

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#1068105 - 05/14/12 01:24 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: G-spotter]
JasonG Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 1830
TRs: 76 Photos: 1116
Loc: Mount Vernon
Stunning lines as usual Dan! These have got to be first descents?
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#1068129 - 05/14/12 04:06 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: JasonG]
Tom_Sjolseth Offline
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Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 501
TRs: 45 Photos: 1948
Loc: Wenatchee (The Kent of the Eas...
That there takes some stones! Nice work.
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#1068166 - 05/14/12 08:24 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: Tom_Sjolseth]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 168
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
Dude, freaking awesome!!

How many people did you see over how many days over there?
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#1068179 - 05/14/12 09:44 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: Gaucho Argentino]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
Wowza!

rawk

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#1068209 - 05/15/12 06:55 AM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
JensHolsten Offline
member

Registered: 12/17/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 2 Photos: 8
Supa Dupa inspiring!!

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#1068212 - 05/15/12 07:35 AM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Joe_Poulton Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 374
TRs: 1 Photos: 45
Loc: Vancouver, WA
rocken Nice work!
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#1068235 - 05/15/12 10:16 AM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Stefan Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/16/01
Posts: 2168
TRs: 7 Photos: 9
Loc: the circus
Originally Posted By: danhelmstadter
Twice I made it to the summit of Winchester in April, getting shut down first by a nasty cold, then by stormy weather.


so you mean to say, when we don't see a trip report from you, you were still out being a badass?

that was one haul out to CBP....AND back!
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#1068277 - 05/15/12 01:29 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
ryanl Offline
member

Registered: 05/31/05
Posts: 176
TRs: 19 Photos: 424
Loc: shoreline
Originally Posted By: danhelmstadter

"The SW face of CBP was fun to shred, much less serious than the east face of ABP, and conditions were ideal for fast turns.





Yeah, Dan, looks like a mellow, shred-able, line. Pull any tricks along the descent to make it interesting at least?

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#1068325 - 05/15/12 06:12 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
danhelmstadter Offline
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Registered: 08/22/07
Posts: 409
TRs: 88 Photos: 22
Loc: pnw
G-spotter, I didn't get any this time, here's one from mid December. Sure is an impressive face, most of the snow on it as of now looks rotten, runnelled and ready to slide off.



Gaucho, I didn't see anyone else, except I'm pretty sure I saw John Scurlock's yellow plane flying nearby when I was on the summit of Larrabee.

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#1068361 - 05/16/12 12:55 AM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24472
TRs: 31 Photos: 838
Loc: In Love with You
baller!
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#1068414 - 05/16/12 12:42 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: olyclimber]
JoshK Offline
sprayer

Registered: 07/09/02
Posts: 5960
TRs: 27 Photos: 237
Loc: Seattle
Dan,

Glad to see you kicked that cold and got back in there for another shot. That stuff looks nuts...awe-inspiring as always! rocken

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#1068578 - 05/17/12 02:39 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2732
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
Holy fuck, that is awesome. Even more so that you did it solo. So many impressive local lines that people always overlook in the search for sickness.
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#1068610 - 05/17/12 06:58 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: jordop]
skykilo Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1250
TRs: 25 Photos: 8
Loc: SF, NM
Go Dan

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#1068917 - 05/21/12 08:30 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Atraslin Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/21/09
Posts: 17
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: North Vancouver,BC
Poaching a line in Canada eh.Or is it still on the US side.
That ABP face looks wild.

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#1091858 - 12/12/12 09:29 AM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: danhelmstadter]
G-spotter Offline
Elite Sprayforce Team

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 14801
TRs: 56 Photos: 397
Loc: free range
I was talking to Fred Beckey last week and he was blown away when I told him that this line had been skiied on ABP. He just shook his head and said "Wow."
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#1091884 - 12/12/12 12:08 PM Re: [TR] American Border Peak & Canadian Border Peak - abp - east face (from summit), cbp - sw face 5/11/2012 [Re: G-spotter]
Feck Offline

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Registered: 11/08/00
Posts: 11213
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Dan's skied a few, "You skied what?" brew
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