Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support

Supporting Sponsors

Pro Mountain Sports
UL Down Jacket. 7.3 oz

Who's Online
2 registered (AlpineK, 1 invisible), 30 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27516 Members
50 Forums
101096 Topics
1148773 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 107
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1029449 - 08/02/11 06:55 PM [TR] Primus, Austera & Eldorado - Eldorado Ice Cap 7/30/2011 *****
off_the_hook Offline

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 13448
Loc: San Carlos, CA
Trip: Primus, Austera & Eldorado - Eldorado Ice Cap

Date: 7/30/2011

Trip Report:
Colin Abercrombie and I toured the Eldroado Ice Cap climbing Primus Peak, Austera Peak and Eldorado along the way. We started at 2 am and finished at 5:40 pm for a 15:40 day. It has been since 2005 that we explored the ice cap towards Austera so it was nice to return to this scenically stellar region and explore a new area beyond Austera to the North Klawatti Glacier and Primus Peak. We didn't see anybody beyond the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak.

We reached the Inspiration flats in time for sunrise and enjoyed firm snow conditions as we traversed the Inspiration Glacier to Klawatti-Austera col. As expected, the views from Austera were sublime in the morning light. Looking back at the 2005 photos from mid-July (a dry year), it's amazing to see just how much more snow there is this year with the glaciers almost entirely snow filled. The traverse down the Klawatti Glacier and around the buttress to the North Klawatti was straightforward. Primus Peak is essentially a walk up with a broad summit but the views and ample lounging space on top more than compensate for the slog to get there. On the way back we tagged Eldroado with some nice afternoon light over Forbidden and the Cascade Pass area. A few more photos and panoramas coming shortly...

Alpine Ascents Group Camp

Alpine Ascents Group on Eldorado

Aesthetic campers on at the base of the East Ridge of Eldorado

Photo by Colin Abercrombie

Photo by Colin Abercrombie

Photo by Colin Abercrombie

Photo by Colin Abercrombie

Gear Notes:
Black Diamond Neve Strap Crampons; Ultimate Direction Wasp Pack; La Sportiva Fireblade Trail Runners; First Endurance EFS Drink Mix and First Endurance Cappuccino Ultragen at the end!

Approach Notes:
Snow starts at the top of the boulder fields. Glaciers are in great condition.


Help Support CascadeClimbers

MSR Flylite Tent
Save 26%

MSR Twin Sisters 2 Tent
Save 30%

Evo Ascent Snowshoe
Save 20%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1029454 - 08/02/11 08:20 PM Re: [TR] Primus, Austera & Eldorado - Eldorado Ice Cap 7/30/2011 [Re: off_the_hook]
banos Offline

Registered: 01/11/09
Posts: 156
TRs: 0 Photos: 5
Loc: North Puget Sound
Off the freakin' Hook!! usual!

stellar work.. awesome pics

Edited by banos (08/02/11 08:21 PM)

#1029496 - 08/03/11 12:02 PM Re: [TR] Primus, Austera & Eldorado - Eldorado Ice Cap 7/30/2011 [Re: off_the_hook]
meanoldmanmike Offline

Registered: 09/17/05
Posts: 9
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: Bethel, Connecticut
That is one full day friend. Thanks for posting the beautiful photos. We were on El Dorado on the 29th and had nothing but clouds at the summit - now I can show people what my trip should have looked like!


#1029675 - 08/04/11 07:14 PM Re: [TR] Primus, Austera & Eldorado - Eldorado Ice Cap 7/30/2011 [Re: off_the_hook]
Skeezix Offline

Registered: 04/22/04
Posts: 1267
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
Loc: Port Angeles
Your panoramic photos are striking. --Especially that first shot at the top of the post.
He is richest whose needs are least.

#1029709 - 08/04/11 11:22 PM Re: [TR] Primus, Austera & Eldorado - Eldorado Ice Cap 7/30/2011 [Re: off_the_hook]
rsloop Offline

Registered: 06/07/09
Posts: 1
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Did you notice if there was water available once on the ice cap - (without melting snow) - e.g. base of Eldorado?


Moderator:  chucK, mattp, Off_White, snoboy, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top