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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010


kurthicks

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir

 

Date: 7/6/2010

 

Trip Report:

Kyle Flick and I climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir yesterday car-to-car. It was the first time for each of us since 2005. As expected from the recent TR, we found the route to be in great condition for this late in the season. The couloir itself had a fair bit of ice and neve-ish snow, after approaching over a breakable crust near the 'schrund. The ridge was rimey and fun mixed action. The route will probably be out of condition really soon due to the increasing temps, but it was cool in the shade and may last another week or so.

 

pictures can do the rest:

IMG_3678.jpg

 

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IMG_3687.jpg

 

Kyle clears the Stuart 'schrund

IMG_3693.jpg

 

looking up the couloir

IMG_3706.jpg

 

taking it to the ridge

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on the West Ridge

IMG_3725.jpg

 

on the north side

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Pulling the crux

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on the last pitch

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The Sherpa 'schrund.

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outta here!

IMG_3733.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

.3 camalot, .5 camalot, #1 trango max cam, 6 stoppers, 1x 16cm screw, 25m 8.1mm rope.

 

bootied two pickets on the Sherpa, but we caught the owners on the trail and gave 'em back.

 

Approach Notes:

in via Stuart Lake Trail, out via mountaineer Creek

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Nice work Kurt! Hard to believe it's been five years, eh? I have fond memories of that climb- esp. Juan saying "you get the cruxes- I have kids." Now, two kids later, I get it.

 

Hopefully we'll get out together in the hills again one of these days . . .

 

JG

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the traverse was my favorite pitch, although some of the rime had melted by the time we got there. The pitch had some 80+ degree snow, some hand jams, and lots of hooking. at one point I was jamming with one hand, camming a tool in the other, and stemming between snow and rock nubbins. stellar!

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