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[TR] Dorado needle - Direct sw buttress 9/4/2005


kukuzka1

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Trip: Dorado needle - Direct sw buttress

 

Date: 9/4/2006

 

Trip Report:

I dont know if anyones done this before me and marko did this? but its a quality two pitch variation to the 1985 sw buttress route with great rock and pro. after exiting the aproach gully instead of traversing right to the cauthorn start go strait up the buttress toe via 4th class rock until you see an obviouse couple vertical cracks on the left center. climb the right crack[5.8] until you must exit right via a small rock pillar[5.9+-5.10]to reach easier ground.the second pitch climbs strait up with a akward couple of 5.8 moves[slightly wet when we did it]then up some solid mid 5th rock to join the regular route at the large white slabs. if its been done my apoligies but it should be out there so climbers looking for a little more difficult rock can enjoy it. mpreiss

 

Gear Notes:

the 5.8 crack cams/nuts up to 4 inches. the crux thin cams/nuts

Edited by kukuzka1
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