Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors





Pro Mountain Sports
UL Down Jacket. 7.3 oz

blank
Who's Online
0 registered (), 37 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27391 Members
50 Forums
100605 Topics
1146554 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 107
JasonG 99
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 76
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Page 1 of 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 >
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#925964 - 12/08/09 03:15 PM Oregon Pinnacles
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
I think Oregon has some of the coolest rock climbing anywhere. Mostly due to the fact of the vast amount or rock pinnacles. Theres tons of them, close to 150 in the Menagerie area alone. So heres a thread for the pinnacles/spires/summits of Oregon. Post your pictures, stories, favorite summits, anything! No spray please! I just want to see some solid content in this thread.


I'll kick it off with a small one, and we can grow from there. This is a rad little spire, well worth the hike to bag the summits in the area.


Index Finger (5.6), Mendenhall Ridge, Smith Rock

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Contact Training Board
$71.21
Save 25%


TX Light Jacket - Men's
$104.25
Save 25%


Chrono Shirt - Men's
$41.4
Save 40%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#925968 - 12/08/09 03:32 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Nice Tyler.

Top
#925969 - 12/08/09 03:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Little Needle Rock is a great little summit next to the larger Needle Rock in the Detroit area. When I climbed the 5th ascent with Tim Olsen we where still the 2nd and 3rd people on the summit, as Brad Englund had rope soloed it 3 times after his orginal FA. We had no prior info on it but got up it with out hooks, wich Brad had rated it according to his summit register as 5.7 A2 hooks.


Little Needle Rock (5.7 A2), Detroit Area

Top
#925972 - 12/08/09 03:52 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
How tall is Little Needle rock anyway?

Top
#925975 - 12/08/09 03:59 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
JoeR Offline
member

Registered: 11/12/09
Posts: 137
TRs: 1 Photos: 1
Loc: Eugene
Awesome stuff tyler, my aunt was just asking me if I've ever "climbed them rocks stickin' out a the woods out there"

Top
#925988 - 12/08/09 04:55 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: billcoe
How tall is Little Needle rock anyway?


Bill-

The uphill side where the route is, is only about 70-80ft while the down hill side is much bigger. Have you climbed Needle before?


Top
#925990 - 12/08/09 05:03 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Ivan snapped this shot of my friend Brian Gilbert and I after our first ascent of The Zebra in the Menagerie. The night before I was telling Ivan how I never fall climbing, sure enough I took a ride the next day on this beast. I whipped a solid 20ft after a sling popped off a knob when I was placing the next sing on a nob. Got caught 5ft off the ground by a #1 beak in some choss. The second sling was still hanging there, so I just free climbed through where I fell got to the sling and drilled a bolt. What would have been A4 with blades and rurps was A2 with beaks. Think the Menageries climbed out... think again


The Zebra (5.9 A2), Menagerie Wilderness

Top
#925994 - 12/08/09 05:20 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Greg Orton snapped these shots of Wilbur Nazarian, Mai Hyman and I on the South Face route, of the South Rabbit Ear in the Menagerie. We cruised up the route that day and replaced the one old bolt on P2 as we rapped down. The first ascent in 1967 by Tom & Bob Bauman was very notable for its time. At only 5.8 this may not sound like much, but if you've ever done it, an all free ascent on the first ascent will seem very impressive. If you've not done it this is a must do Oregon summit.



South Rabbit Ear (5.8), Menagerie Wilderness

Top
#926082 - 12/08/09 11:01 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
dorianlee Offline
member

Registered: 10/15/06
Posts: 115
TRs: 5 Photos: 50
Am I the only one who sees the face on index finger pic #1? Looks a lot like those moai easter island statues.

Top
#926176 - 12/09/09 11:12 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: dorianlee]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Come'on every one don't be shy. I know theres pleanty of people who could contribute to this thread.

Top
#926179 - 12/09/09 11:23 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
i like, uh, have climbed, like, uh, the monkey face and the turkey monster - do they count? smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#926180 - 12/09/09 11:24 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb


The Zebra (5.9 A2), Menagerie Wilderness

hey, did i ever send you the big-sized version of this?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#926183 - 12/09/09 11:38 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: ivan

hey, did i ever send you the big-sized version of this?


hell ya you did! post up some pics and a story!! the monkeys the classic oregon spire, and damn well we all know the turkeys pretty damn sick! i dont care what it is, as long as its climbing content somehow related to oregon rock summits.

Top
#926246 - 12/09/09 05:02 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
all my oregon spire sh.tuff is old (maybe the last outing cured me?) but for what it's worth:


pillars of hercules


west smith summit:


the bird from a coupla summers ago:


Jeff exploring the possibility of an FFA (J. Leary photo hyperlink)


magic brownies celebration on the dome summit (J. Leary photo hyperlinked)

Top
#926257 - 12/09/09 05:37 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Have you climbed Needle before?


I have not and it looks awesome! So does Pillar of Hercules, but in person, it looks much less impressive than FWGs pic! I don't have any pictures of that one, Monkey Face or Rooster Rock:-(

I have some up in the lower Cascades on my tick list for next year:


BTW, is this one below a pinnacle or is it technically just a lump?

Top
#926262 - 12/09/09 06:06 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
lancegranite Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 1740
TRs: 0 Photos: 88
Loc: 11worth
I own the old Oregon guidebook that lists these spires, always wanted to go there.

Top
#926974 - 12/13/09 02:48 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: lancegranite]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Radek- I know you've got more!!!

Bill- Those look awsome let me know if you want a partner for them, I would be stoaked.

Top
#926986 - 12/13/09 04:10 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
This is a picture looking up "The Prize" on Old Man in the Umpqua area. This is in my opinion one of the more classic sport routes in Oregon. With four pitches of sustained hard climbing, one of 5.10c, two at 5.11b and one 5.11c. I was fortunate to get drug up the hard pitches this route by Chris Fralick after I managed the first. We where rewarded by a tyrolean traverse to Old Woman at the end. The standard route up Old Man goes at 5.9 and is also a great route. If you can climb the grade you must do the route!


"The Prize" (5.11c), Old Man Spire, Umpqua Area FA - Joe Chaves and Greg Orton 2000

Top
#927078 - 12/13/09 11:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
Tyler - Thanks for the picture of my OLD friend...
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

Top
#927081 - 12/13/09 11:53 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: OldManRock]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Gary- Tell us a story about the FA!

Top
#927097 - 12/14/09 07:44 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1132
TRs: 16 Photos: 449
Loc: finally back to OR
I second this motion.

Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Gary- Tell us a story about the FA!
_________________________
shapp

Top
#927209 - 12/14/09 03:27 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: shapp]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2566
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
I grew up on the Umpqua. too bad those routes went up after i left! Might have to check it out if I'm ever there again, looks good!
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

Top
#927642 - 12/15/09 04:46 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: kurthicks]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: kurthicks
I grew up on the Umpqua. too bad those routes went up after i left! Might have to check it out if I'm ever there again, looks good!


Kurt- Many of the routes in the area went up in the late 50's/early 60's, such as Gary's (oldmanrock) first ascent of Old Man and Eagle Rock. If I recall Gary mentioned an airplane being involved with the approach as the highway had not been pushed that far yet. If you havent seen Greg Orton's Umpqua Rock book, check it out, its a great resource for the area.

Top
#927660 - 12/15/09 05:41 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2566
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
good to know. thanks tyler. the only stuff i did there was on the Youtlekut(sp?) Pillars. maybe a trip to the homeland is in order.
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

Top
#927669 - 12/15/09 06:09 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: kurthicks]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Heres Jim Anglin on Chicken Legs on Chicken Rock in the Menagerie (FA Jim Anglin & Chris Fralick). This is one of the best sport routes there. Jim always said this was his favorite route in the Menagerie. The regular route up Chicken, Rawhide (5.8) is wild for the grade and well worth it.


Chicken Legs (5.11a), Chicken Rock, Menagerie

Top
#927685 - 12/15/09 07:26 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
My bro and I on top of Stein's Pillar.


Top
#927688 - 12/15/09 07:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Here's Kyle on Rooster Rock.



Does McKinnley Rock count?



The Traverse?


Top
#927699 - 12/15/09 08:44 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
hell ya Geoff!!

Top
#927718 - 12/15/09 09:26 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1132
TRs: 16 Photos: 449
Loc: finally back to OR
SE Oregon



I would like to get on this pinnacle below with you Tyler late next spring and make good on my previous offer (I think it is about 300 feet tall):








Edited by shapp (12/15/09 09:32 PM)
_________________________
shapp

Top
#927720 - 12/15/09 09:36 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: shapp]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Jason- I'd love too get out there. Lets start planning a trip, I just aquired two IK's.

Top
#927738 - 12/15/09 10:24 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: shapp]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

Top
#927752 - 12/15/09 10:55 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon


Brian Gilbert topping out on pitch-8 of Eagle's Dare, Gen Harmon belaying. Climb was made in late October 2009 after making the 600 foot rappel and class 4 scramble to the base of this pseudo spire.

Top
#927955 - 12/16/09 03:20 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Nice, welcome to cc.com Greg! Got any pictures of Jurrasic Park or Redmans Tooth?

Edit: Or better yet any pictures from your ascent of Big Squaw?


Edited by corvallisclimb (12/16/09 04:10 PM)

Top
#927956 - 12/16/09 03:26 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
justinp Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/16/08
Posts: 413
TRs: 0 Photos: 264
Loc: 3Rivers
Originally Posted By: g orton


Brian Gilbert topping out on pitch-8 of Eagle's Dare, Gen Harmon belaying. Climb was made in late October 2009 after making the 600 foot rappel and class 4 scramble to the base of this pseudo spire.


This looks like a great sport climb! It was on my list for last fall. Unfortunately it will have to wait until spring! The whole idea of rapping in then climbing to safety is very appealing.
_________________________
Roads??? Where we're going, we don't need roads...

Top
#927989 - 12/16/09 05:34 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: justinp]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: justinp
The whole idea of rapping in then climbing to safety is very appealing.


You'll go far in the Black Canyon......substitute the word hiking for rapping.

Top
#928014 - 12/16/09 06:38 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Jurasic Park is a pretty sweet spot to stop on an I-5 road trip.

Top
#928021 - 12/16/09 06:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Katani Rock



Rooster Rock in the Gorge



Nice view from up top.



Labyrinth



This may be slightly across the border.

Top
#928028 - 12/16/09 07:29 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
dan_forester Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 11/13/03
Posts: 577
TRs: 1 Photos: 21
Loc: Portland, OR
Originally Posted By: geoff


Labyrinth



This may be slightly across the border.


Is this the formation just SW (?) of the summit of Silver Star?

nice pictures on this thread, by the way. thanks for kicking it off Tyler.

Top
#928094 - 12/16/09 11:09 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: dan_forester]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Okay heres one scary summit! Shiprock (5.7X) at Smith... This is by far one of the loosest most rotten things I've climbed, but well worth it! It was always hard to find someone to climb it with but finally this guy wanderd up to my friend and I as we where finishing an obscure route at Smith. He said he hadnt roped up yet at Smith but had done a little soloing and really wanted to gut up some summits. So I proposed the Christian Brothers Traverse for the next day, he was in. We wound up swapping leads along it with lazy ass Jake (bigwalling) tagging along. After that I knew this guy was core. So for our next outting we did Shiprock as his second roped climb ever at Smith. This guy is Brian Moore and hes fucking hard core!!! Anyways now some pics from the day, all stolen from Brian.





Top
#928126 - 12/17/09 08:29 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
that's awesome Tyler. register up top??

Top
#928187 - 12/17/09 10:39 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: dan_forester]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Nope but I have been up to the Chimney Rocks.

This place is near the Syncline biking/hiking area across from Hood River.

Top
#928189 - 12/17/09 10:41 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: fgw]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Nice Tyler. Always thought about that thing.

Top
#928220 - 12/17/09 12:13 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: fgw]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: fgw
that's awesome Tyler. register up top??


nope sadly... my guess would be under 10 ascents though... who knows tho, its hard to say.

Top
#928395 - 12/17/09 10:49 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

Walls in top photo have never had a first.
Walls on second photo have only had one ascent made in 1998.

Tyler,
hope you have photos of all your firsts this summer I can use.
I have Redmans Tooth and Jurassic somewhere in my archives, but my goal is to get out and take some better ones next summer.


Edited by g orton (12/17/09 10:53 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#928443 - 12/18/09 10:13 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
Greg - Excellent picture of Rattlesnake Rock on the Umpqua, where is the second one ??
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

Top
#928525 - 12/18/09 04:46 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Thanks for those Greg!


Tyler, plan on it, this summer.

Geoff, I have a pic of cock rock here someplace, I heard they changed the name in 1959 as it wasn't PC, but as you can see, it doesn't look like a "Rooster" Rock, as much as a "Cock" Rock from the view the pioneers saw in the 1800s.

...hmmm, can't find that shot....so heres some unclimbed pinnacles instead. The downhill length of the top one must be close to 300'.




Did someone say Granite?


Did someone say more Granite?


I am posting these secrets to up the stokage and to be a tease and mostly cause I've been drinkin' again......the point is that there's lots of stuff way out in the woods not far from town, especially in Skamanina county just go look for it.

Top
#928687 - 12/19/09 08:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3589
TRs: 76 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!
Talked to Brad today, he did Little Needle Rock a bunch of times (6x ?), and a few more unclimbed/uncharted pinnacles in the area. I do miss the forrest goodies myself.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

Top
#928696 - 12/19/09 09:35 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania



if only i coulda got a pic of my 240 lbs of bubble gum squeezing into kyle's green jacket 2day, whilst busy smoking his cigs and hatiing on his sick aid-style! lmao
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#928705 - 12/19/09 10:26 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: OldManRock]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon


Gary, the last photo you asked about was Deer Leap, visible from Toketee School house.
photos above from today at the Callahans, Treasure Island (below), Iron Maiden, one of the mainy still unclimbed spires, and Rodeo Spire. Each is fine grained sandstone, about 100ft tall.


Edited by g orton (12/21/09 09:27 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#928750 - 12/20/09 11:55 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Nice Greg! (except for the sideways one but I can turn my head LOL!)

Here's another one. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/928749#Post928749

Top
#928850 - 12/20/09 10:55 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Bill,
I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here.
It makes them harder to stay on.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#928891 - 12/21/09 08:26 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
DCramer Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: Seattle
Plenty of pinnacles in WA too....


Top
#928976 - 12/21/09 12:04 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: DCramer]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: g orton
Bill,
I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here.
It makes them harder to stay on.


LOL!!!!

But aren't ya suppose to be on the top part when you encounter one of those sideways monsters? I'll defer to your experience in these matters of course...jus' wondering. smirk

________________________________________________________

Originally Posted By: DCramer
Plenty of pinnacles in WA too....


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....

Top
#929001 - 12/21/09 01:17 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
DCramer Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: billcoe


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....


The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......

Top
#929038 - 12/21/09 03:47 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: DCramer]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: DCramer
Originally Posted By: billcoe


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....


The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......


Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.

Top
#929040 - 12/21/09 03:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse.
With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not?


Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock

Top
#929071 - 12/21/09 07:09 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3589
TRs: 76 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!
Brad has done it reverse and forwards a bunch. the dude is core solo.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

Top
#929074 - 12/21/09 07:15 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: wayne]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Ya Brad did the FA I don't know anyone else thats repeated it. He could have done it more than once. So I figured solo was the best way to repeat it for my 23rd birthday.

Top
#929149 - 12/22/09 08:56 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
DCramer Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Originally Posted By: DCramer
Originally Posted By: billcoe


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....


The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......


Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.


Thanks. I encouraged Justen to go try and free Shitty Park but at the time his eyes were on longer routes. It's a sweet crack for sure. Say hi to Jake if you see him.

Top
#929157 - 12/22/09 09:25 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: DCramer]
orion_sonya Offline
member

Registered: 03/08/05
Posts: 130
TRs: 0 Photos: 9
Darryl-

By chance did you take those pictures mountain biking? Assuming they're the same, I have always wondered about those little spires - did you hike over to them?

Orion

Top
#929515 - 12/23/09 05:39 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: orion_sonya]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
The Thumb on the Wombat at Smith is probably one of the most obscure summits out there. Either climb Santiam Highway Ledges (5.10a) or Cat Fight Cracks (5.10a X) or make a long involved ridge scramble from the summit of the Wombat. To quote Watt's "Only the most obsessive peak baggers with bother with this silly spire".


The Thumb (5.7), Smith Rock

Top
#930509 - 12/30/09 03:25 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx

Top
#930573 - 12/30/09 10:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Bill, thats great! Is it the Witch?

Top
#930603 - 12/31/09 08:37 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
You don't recognize it but that's my fat ass.... I'm vowing to lose some weight for the New Years!

Top
#930960 - 01/02/10 06:32 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
The Main Pillar at the Twin Pillars is a damn hard summit. I belive we climbed "The Campfire Route" F7 A3... It was kinda loose, sorta scary, but well worth it. I don't know anyone else that has climbed the Pillars. My guess is its been under 5 ascents. There was no trace of any rappel slings on the summit. Just one original bolt. Thanks Bryan for ripping it up out there with me!






Top
#931344 - 01/05/10 01:19 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
wassup???? i know there are like 20+ more people who could contribute to this thread.

Top
#931348 - 01/05/10 03:50 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
JosephH Offline
sprayer

Registered: 08/11/04
Posts: 5605
TRs: 1 Photos: 478
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: g orton

photos above from today at the Callahans, Treasure Island (below), Iron Maiden, one of the mainy still unclimbed spires, and Rodeo Spire. Each is fine grained sandstone, about 100ft tall.

Ah, sandstone, now you're talking. That almost looks it's been transported from back home in SoIll or W. Ky.




Top
#931369 - 01/05/10 08:41 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: JosephH]
Mtguide Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 03/03/02
Posts: 553
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Portland,OR
Obviously there's been a big fire at Twin Pillars since I was last there about 8-9 years ago. Anyone know how much of the area burned? Stein's Pillar, Mill Creek canyon? Sorry to see that, it used to be a really pretty place.

Top
#931431 - 01/05/10 11:56 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Mtguide]
luvshaker Offline
member

Registered: 11/18/03
Posts: 194
TRs: 0 Photos: 16
Loc: 500 miles from granite
I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....
but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.
There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.

Never heard of "F7"


Edited by luvshaker (01/05/10 01:08 PM)

Top
#931497 - 01/05/10 04:36 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: luvshaker]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: luvshaker
I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....
but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.
There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.

Never heard of "F7"


ya on the think the south face there is a bolt like 15ft up missing a hanger i dont think there are any more... F7 was before the yos decimal system F = free F10 being the limit. the only spot where twin pillars are written up are in the dodge guide wich uses the original rating system. so ill stick with the original rating crosseye

Top
#932367 - 01/09/10 11:01 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Some trivia on Acker Rock.
We've varified that there is a buckwheat flower variety that has only been found to occur on Acker.
http://www.brit.org/fileadmin/Publicatio...BRIT3_2__21.pdf
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#933384 - 01/13/10 01:50 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
beaconben Offline
member

Registered: 03/15/04
Posts: 124
TRs: 1 Photos: 12
Loc: Portland, OR
Awesome thread, thanks contributors and Tyler for starting it up. I agree that pinnacles are kind of Oregon's strength as far as climbing goes, although questionable rock and horrible ancient fixed "bolt ladders" seem to be what these routes have in common.

In any case, this thread is a great psyche. Gonna have to hit the Menagerie and Callahanís this summer and scare the shit out of myself

Tyler, have you climbed The Steeple, near Steins. is it easy to find.

Sorry I have no photos to post, although you can check out tha Abaxas TR posted in Nov 09. Is the Monument Oregon's largest pinnacle. I Guess that would be Mt Jefferson.


Edited by beaconben (01/18/10 12:24 PM)

Top
#935614 - 01/22/10 11:15 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: beaconben]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Here is a route that should be on every Oregon climber's to do list:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North...ding_94216.html
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#935626 - 01/23/10 08:42 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
Checat Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/12/04
Posts: 225
TRs: 0 Photos: 30
Loc: Mount Pleasant, MI
This route was one of the first 50 I climbed ever, when I first started climbing while going to school in Ashland. Stellar. There are actually a couple satellite pillars near Pilota and a couple of crags sprinkled around the Norcal border some right off I-5, some you have to get on the off roads that run around Hornbrook, the Buddhist Temple etc... some climbed, some not...

Top
#938725 - 02/02/10 10:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

McKinley Rock


Double Chocolate rock, Callahans



Mind Planet, Callahans


Edited by g orton (02/02/10 11:30 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#939641 - 02/06/10 01:22 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

Chandler Orton, riding the chicken, Menagerie.
Photo: Jim Anglin
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#939787 - 02/07/10 11:54 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon


Pitch-2 of Deer Leap moving into the solid columnar formations (450 feet). Photo: Harold Hall


Joe Chaves, swinging out onto the crux o Magic Blocks on the 250-foot Pilot Rock columns, Rogue.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#939790 - 02/07/10 12:05 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
[img]
December in the Callahans. Valley fog forms when cold air is trapped below the warmer air above.


Dave Tvedt making it look easy on Oregon sandstone.

Chandler Orton and Willie Long on Fantasy Island, Callhans.


Edited by g orton (02/07/10 12:09 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#940480 - 02/09/10 08:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

T-Rex Spire, Jurassic Park
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#940616 - 02/10/10 09:55 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: g orton

T-Rex Spire, Jurassic Park


that is a super sweet tree on top

Top
#941419 - 02/12/10 09:52 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: powderhound]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

Only 4 established routes with room for more.


10 routes of three pitch climbing


120 foot columns of the Youtlkut Pillars.


Jerry Messinger at Rattlesnake's Rainy Day Cave, Rogue
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#941428 - 02/12/10 11:33 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
Greg - Thanks for the memory - I also wonder why Eagle Rock has so few routes.
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

Top
#942540 - 02/18/10 04:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
Originally Posted By: g orton
Some trivia on Acker Rock.
We've varified that there is a buckwheat flower variety that has only been found to occur on Acker.
http://www.brit.org/fileadmin/Publicatio...BRIT3_2__21.pdf


That's pretty cool. Great place.

Top
#945612 - 03/03/10 03:21 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: geoff]
justinp Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/16/08
Posts: 413
TRs: 0 Photos: 264
Loc: 3Rivers
Bump (This is a cool thread that is getting too far down in the list IMHO)


Close-up of Lonesome Spire-Hills Creek Spires
Bolt ladder runs up right arete

_________________________
Roads??? Where we're going, we don't need roads...

Top
#947433 - 03/16/10 05:05 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: justinp]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Bump cuz Mt Hood is FAHKING GEYH! Do people really give a shit about the 1,256,303 ascent of da South Side?

Anyways nice one Justin, did you guys climb it?

Top
#949208 - 03/26/10 01:36 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
The top of The Dragons Spine Pinnacle. There is a full 60 meter pitch that gets part way off the ground. Not sideways, but still about 300' off the deck on top.


The top picture was taken from the tree between the 2 pinnacles, you can see the tree in the lower picture of the other side in this distance shot. The Old Witch on the left in the sunlight, The Dragons Spine on the right with belays marked with white xx's and oo's (The Old Witch summit). That's the Cathedral Formation out at Gothic Rocks area from the side. I am predicting that The Old Witch will be the most climbed Pinnacle via the currently non-existent route called Bewitched in Oregon within 3 years. Straight up the left side of the left hand pinnacle there....it's in my dreams.


Oh yes, she will be mine.....[insert sick fixation picture here]


Putting the rap sling on top of the Old Witch last Sept. Hey, I've got some cams left over on the rack! Big shock, esp. since the nearest crack is @ 20 miles away.


The profile that shows the Witch's head.


Same same but showing where the mouth is.

Top
#949213 - 03/26/10 01:51 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
yes, virginia, there is a santa claus smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#949214 - 03/26/10 01:53 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Fap fap fap!

Top
#949264 - 03/26/10 07:16 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Nice Eric! Where is that pinnacle in Oregon? looks sick! lmao


Way to finally finish her eh? Now I can have a crack?

Top
#949282 - 03/26/10 10:19 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
it counts if you can SEE oregon, right? smile

still a little tiny bit to work out (the dashed line) but when i get back from cali next week i'll get'er done n' would enjoy having your august opinion on it - a hard man such as yourself will no doubt be non-plussed (5.7 c2?), but i imagine you'll have a good time anyhow - it makes for a good full day at least, w/ ample groovy places to stop n' smell the flowers smile


looks pinnaclely, don't it?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#950147 - 04/01/10 12:39 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
there some cool pinnacles in Oregon that have some weird holes through them....


Top
#950148 - 04/01/10 12:41 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
and theres a couple of sets of bunny ears out there as well


Top
#950647 - 04/03/10 02:33 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Rabbit Ears, Rogue
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#950650 - 04/03/10 02:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Tyrolean Traverse between Old Man and Old Woman, Umpqua
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#950653 - 04/03/10 02:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: g orton
Tyrolean Traverse between Old Man and Old Woman, Umpqua

looks like day 3 of the red-neck olympics! lmao

"hold my beer!" smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#950659 - 04/03/10 03:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
The Prize, Old Man - Joe Chaves (2001) making the first free ascent.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#950661 - 04/03/10 04:01 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Crazy Crack, Umpqua - First ascent team (1982).
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#950673 - 04/03/10 07:51 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
The Rabbit Ears in the Rouge are freaking sweet, thanks Greg!

Top
#950674 - 04/03/10 07:55 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Oh man, it's all sweet! Ditto on the thanks!

Top
#950695 - 04/03/10 11:09 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Acker Rock (S Face)
[quote=g orton]
Upper Climber on Pitch 3 of the overhang on Wipe Out on her. Lower climber is beginning pitch 3 of Easy Street. It was only their 4th day of climbing.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#950797 - 04/05/10 01:15 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
couple of secrets left out there too....



Soft Space (5.8 A2) Horse Cock Rock

Top
#951529 - 04/08/10 11:58 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
some random spires no one will care to do



Vulture Ridge Spire (5.6 R) - Smith Rock


Top
#951585 - 04/09/10 10:22 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
BillA Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 433
TRs: 4 Photos: 18
Brad Englund route?? Whose pic is that?

Top
#951603 - 04/09/10 11:37 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: BillA]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: BillA
Brad Englund route?? Whose pic is that?


yup definatly an Englund route. My friends GF snapped this pic of me rappin off.

Top
#951627 - 04/09/10 01:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
BillA Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 433
TRs: 4 Photos: 18
Nice! I didn't know you had climbed that one...

Top
#952088 - 04/12/10 03:23 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: BillA]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
this ones been climbed two or three times


Top
#952307 - 04/13/10 03:44 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Tyler, where is that one if you can share?

Top
#952310 - 04/13/10 03:50 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
I dont know the name of it. Its between the Hills Creek Spires and Shady Creek Spires. We thought we where going to do the FA of it but someone beat us to it by drilling THE MOST poorly crafted bolt ladder I have ever seen. I kinda want to call it Scorpion Spire, because after when I was on the ground trundling, under some of the rocks I found three scorpions one almost 3 inches long. The bolt ladder was one of the most botched routes I have ever seen, who ever you are chop your route and climb that thing in proper style!


here is one of the smaller ones

Top
#953235 - 04/19/10 05:57 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
King Beatard Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/08
Posts: 113
TRs: 1 Photos: 4
Loc: climbing or working
Originally Posted By: g orton
Tyrolean Traverse between Old Man and Old Woman, Umpqua


Oh crap! I didn't know their was a pinnacle named Old Man. shock Plaidman and I named a pinnacle The Old Man last year. Guess that's the problem with spending more time climbing than spraying; you don't know shit about what everybody else is doing. BTW I just found this thread and it's the shit! My todo list just grew. Way to Go climbers!!! rawk

Top
#953379 - 04/20/10 11:45 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: King Beatard]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
It used to be called Bartram's Pecker, but PC raised its head and the name was changed to Old Man Rock - Wishful thinking seems to me - We named the pinnacle next to Old Man, the Old Woman as we felt in his condition, he needed a friend - Both are fun climbs..
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

Top
#953390 - 04/20/10 12:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: OldManRock]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Same thing happened to "Cock Rock". As I understand it, all the pioneers floating by called it that. Then they changed the name so you didn't have to say "Cock" in public.



Pfft, they botched that, it doesn't look anything like a "Rooster". "Rooster" Rock in the gorge.

Gary, did you see the pics of Jeff styling last Saturday? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthre...he_F#Post953381 Don't scroll past the first 3 pics if you're in public BTW.

Top
#960461 - 05/26/10 06:10 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Twin Sisters

Tyler A. and Chris F. and the Prize: one of the coolest looking routes i have seen in Oregon!

Top
#961624 - 06/02/10 12:05 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: powderhound]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

UCC climbing class Memorial Day, N. Umpqua on Old Man and Old Woman.


Edited by g orton (06/02/10 12:07 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#968989 - 07/16/10 02:20 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
alpine glower Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/06/10
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: once Sweet Home, now La Grande
Originally Posted By: g orton

Chandler Orton, riding the chicken, Menagerie.
Photo: Jim Anglin


What a classic route, I look forward to getting back. Thanks for the memories!

Top
#984477 - 10/25/10 01:17 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: alpine glower]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Anyone tag any cool summits this summer?!?!

Top
#984499 - 10/25/10 02:21 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
i'm on the 1 a year installment plan apparently - just did steins - what should i do next? smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#984506 - 10/25/10 02:30 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
You should take a trip down the the Umpqua go bag Old Man/Woman, Eagle Rock etc... I'm sure would would love it down there.

Top
#984512 - 10/25/10 02:55 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#984566 - 10/25/10 07:14 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Jeeze tough crowd here... Any one climb a pinnacle in Oregon the past 6 months and take a picture of it?

And no Eric, no further than going to Steins or some such. Straight forward as well. Slog down I5 then jam East along the Umpqua and find one of the MANY crags.

Top
#984580 - 10/25/10 08:18 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Jeeze tough crowd here....

what dog-repecting non-sporto-head climber slums around in or-e-gone anyhow, dood? thought you were pretty much the scene 'rouuuuuuund here! smile

steins was well worth the trip - if'n i dragged you along could we keep you sober enoughgt to rig that sweet looking tyrolean? rawk
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#984729 - 10/26/10 04:53 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
justinp Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/16/08
Posts: 413
TRs: 0 Photos: 264
Loc: 3Rivers
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Jeeze tough crowd here... Any one climb a pinnacle in Oregon the past 6 months and take a picture of it?


Double Rubber did (P2 Turkey Monster). How many pieces of pro can you count?


This duder also (somewhere on Acker Rock)


How bout u Tyler I know ur holdin out smile
_________________________
Roads??? Where we're going, we don't need roads...

Top
#984739 - 10/26/10 05:18 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: justinp]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Meh okay I'll bite... my friend Brian and I did the FA of the Platypus, a crazy tower out there off HW 20 somewhere. Probably like II 5.4 A2 or something. This in my opinon has the coolest aid climbing on a route I've ever done. If any one cares for beta I'll drop it. We named it the Platypus to keep with the animal theme of the area. It's beetween Wolf and the Menagerie, with rock unlike anyhting I've seen in Oregon, its kinda like a mammal that lays eggs!


Tomahawk!!!


Specter!!!








Wheres the crack?




Your god damn right I'm going to put three into this shit!!


The route follows the obvious groove in the shadow.


Top
#984987 - 10/27/10 11:13 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
what up topo bitches!


Top
#984997 - 10/27/10 11:51 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
denalidave Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/14/06
Posts: 4065
TRs: 3 Photos: 674
Loc: Columbia River Gorge, WA
Originally Posted By: ivan
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Jeeze tough crowd here....

what dog-repecting non-sporto-head climber slums around in or-e-gone anyhow, dood? thought you were pretty much the scene 'rouuuuuuund here! smile

steins was well worth the trip - if'n i dragged you along could we keep you sober enoughgt to rig that sweet looking tyrolean? rawk
I climbed Beacon Rock, everyone tells me it's the best climbing in Oregon. Pretty sure you can even call it a pinnacle. If I dig through my files, I might even have a photo.
_________________________
Some people make hard climbing look easy, I prefer to make easy climbing look really hard.

Top
#984999 - 10/27/10 11:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
denalidave Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/14/06
Posts: 4065
TRs: 3 Photos: 674
Loc: Columbia River Gorge, WA
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Meh okay I'll bite... my friend Brian and I did the FA of the Platypus, a crazy tower out there off HW 20 somewhere. Probably like II 5.4 A2 or something. This in my opinon has the coolset aid climbing on a route I've ever done. If any one cares for beta I'll drop it. We named it the Platypus to keep with the animal theme of the area. It's beetween Wolf and the Menagerie, with rock unlike anyhting I've seen in Oregon, its kinda like a mammal that lays eggs!


Tomahawk!!!


Specter!!!








Wheres the crack?




Your god damn right I'm going to put three into this shit!!


The route follows the obvious groove in the shadow.

Holy shite, now that's aiding! Nice!!
_________________________
Some people make hard climbing look easy, I prefer to make easy climbing look really hard.

Top
#1011054 - 03/25/11 08:23 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: denalidave]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359


Alan Watts on top of Lost Hardware Pinnacle, with Dissapearing Tower on the left.

Top
#1018258 - 05/24/11 06:30 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Spring 2011, a new season.
I'll start this thread back up.
Chris, nice report on your climb up Old Man on the Prize. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthre...011#Post1018254
I'll pull the poison oak out at the base of the Prize again when I'm up there next weekend.

In your email, you asked about the gate to the Callahans. It is still open and we are still driving gear in on Saturdays and Sundays. After March 15 it can close at anytime. Usually they will start locking the gate on a weekday or lock the lower gate and leave the upper gate unlocked until everyone is out. That said last year I got locked behind the gates on a Sunday, so you never know. Your safest bet would be to drop people and gear off at the top and have someone drive back and park your rig at the lower gate. But, they will be missing the true Callahans experience of the walk in that offers a great morning warmup and for me, a badly needed spring workout.


Edited by g orton (05/24/11 07:39 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1018259 - 05/24/11 07:19 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
Teh Phuzzy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/03/10
Posts: 359
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: (50TREE)
Originally Posted By: ivan
just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?


The Umpqua is drying out, eh?
_________________________
never need a cliffside push
never turn my brain to mush

Top
#1018271 - 05/24/11 08:58 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Teh Phuzzy]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: Teh Phuzzy
Originally Posted By: ivan
just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?


The Umpqua is drying out, eh?

fo'shizzle, and come next month the family floats off to virginia and i have fuck all to do!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1018292 - 05/24/11 10:47 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
cja Offline
n00b

Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 42
TRs: 3 Photos: 13
Thanks Greg, and thanks for the info too.

Sounds like we may have missed our chance to poach the famous Tyrolean? Thanks in advance for pulling the oak--I hate that stuff.

I'm already thinking I'll go back for a clean free ascent next year with a warmup approach via the cable traverse. We stopped and contemplated it, but neither of us pushed the other hard enough to commit to it. (Take an extra short cord to fix on the other side of the river if you plan on that and don't interpret this as suggested approach.)

Phuzzy, it's just over 4 hrs actual driving time from P-town. Add your gas, pee, and beer stops to this time, and go get on it. I think Radek did it in a day some time back, but I'd suggest rolling into the hot springs down the road and finding a spot near there to kip in the woods. Next day, bike on the river trail, float, or climb something else. We went to the Callahans Sunday, which is great sport cragging (sandstone!), and not that far out of your way as you've got to come back through Roseburg in any case...for more solitary adventure check out McKinley Rock (prolly not open yet though?)

Top
#1018928 - 05/26/11 03:23 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: cja]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Tom Baumans got lots of good storys about the cable crossing. Maybe oldmanrock can chime in since he was probably there.

But one time BITD they were going accross the cable crossing and had the belay rope laying in the middle of the road, as the cable starts on the opposite side of the road. Needless to say a car came ripping down the highway with the belay line hanging a foot above the road. Well you all can guess what happend, some loud snaps and some pissed off drivers... a couple more stories of using aluminum carabiners on the cable are out there as well.

Top
#1019042 - 05/26/11 11:33 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
Yes I remember the time Tom decided to cross using just the cable and an aluminum carabiner - He was half way across commenting on the salmon in the river he could see, when he got real quiet - He was down to half the thickness of the biner - I think 99% of his weight was on his arms the rest of the way - If he had asked I would have loaned him some of my steel biners smile - I also coming back to cable crossing after Tom, Jerry Calbaum, and I had done both Old Man and Old Woman, and saw Smoky Bear ranger across the river by his official forest service pickup - He looked at us, and we looked at him - He didn't leave, so what the hell, we crossed over, locked the cart up, and came down - His first question was "Where did you get the key ?" - Tom had a good story that covered that, so then he said "I'm here because some people told us you climbers were molesting the eagles" - We told him its the last thing in the world we would molest, and so he had done his duty, and left us without saying anything else.
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

Top
#1019137 - 05/27/11 01:46 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Great stuff! Thanks Gary!!!

Top
#1019156 - 05/27/11 03:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
cja Offline
n00b

Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 42
TRs: 3 Photos: 13
hmm, steel biners, eh? that sounds like a smart idea wink
Now I have a reason to buy myself one of those...

Top
#1020485 - 06/06/11 11:50 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: cja]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Yesturday on the Umpqua
Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolean, Spring 2011.


Edited by g orton (06/06/11 11:52 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1023282 - 06/23/11 04:49 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Whos been on this sweet summit?! One of the finest locations to picnic in the gorge, the Alpenjager!


Lookin like a fruit on top of the Alpenjager.

Top
#1023334 - 06/24/11 08:48 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
that's a big sprawling meadow up there!

Top
#1026977 - 07/15/11 07:11 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!!


Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011

hcluv hcluv

Top
#1027066 - 07/16/11 03:58 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!!


Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011

hcluv hcluv


HELL YEAH, happy are those that live out their dreams, give some details:)

Top
#1027729 - 07/20/11 02:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
and the Horse Cock from above looks a little smaller...


Top
#1031176 - 08/17/11 12:20 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359


The Eagles Claw wink

Top
#1031191 - 08/17/11 08:41 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
sick gnar!!!! solo?

Top
#1031257 - 08/17/11 03:18 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: powderhound]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: powderhound
sick gnar!!!! solo?


Naw I had a very nice and patient belayer for this one wink

Top
#1032894 - 08/31/11 07:51 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Acker Rock Lookout has just come back online as a rental at $40 per night plus $9 reservation fee. The only way to reserve a night at the lookout is at recreation.gov

Climbing the Peregrine Traverse and/or Eagle's Dare and spending a night at the lookout is a 4-star experience.

For more information contact the Tiller Ranger Station: (541) 825-3201

_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1035781 - 09/26/11 09:34 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon


Edited by g orton (09/26/11 09:35 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1035784 - 09/26/11 09:44 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
Teh Phuzzy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/03/10
Posts: 359
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: (50TREE)
Where the hell did you find that thing?! crazy
_________________________
never need a cliffside push
never turn my brain to mush

Top
#1035818 - 09/27/11 07:20 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Teh Phuzzy]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: Teh Phuzzy
Where the hell did you find that thing?! crazy

looks safe to me smile

looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1035940 - 09/27/11 10:14 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
KirkW Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/03/06
Posts: 516
TRs: 4 Photos: 28
Loc: Corvallis, OR
Originally Posted By: ivan
Originally Posted By: Teh Phuzzy
Where the hell did you find that thing?! crazy

looks safe to me smile

looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it?


Pretty sure that vile beast is the turkey. I wonder if it got new bolts last weekend? Ahem...Tyler? If not when should I show up to help. wave
_________________________
it's about time someone stepped up and got those bullshit 3rd world money wasting schools shut down

Top
#1046065 - 12/03/11 02:52 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
markd Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/21/03
Posts: 437
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
one of favorite places to climb in oregon just happens to have this one.

Top
#1046079 - 12/03/11 05:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
yeah MARKD!!!! see you in a couple weeks!

Top
#1046352 - 12/05/11 06:04 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

The Polar Bear (5.10d)

Top
#1048336 - 12/18/11 04:32 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
scott schmidt Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/18/11
Posts: 5
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: deer harbor,wa
corvallisclimb-when my computer skills increase I will send some pics and stories of Oregon pinnacle climbing in the 60's on the East side of the Menagerie. sls

Top
#1048338 - 12/18/11 05:27 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Wow now there's a legend in the house! Anything you could add would be awesome Scott!!!

Top
#1048562 - 12/20/11 09:14 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
Plaidman Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/03/07
Posts: 993
TRs: 24 Photos: 329
Loc: South slope of Mt. Tabor
Here are a few that are near The Dalles.
Tottering Tower


The Bump


The Bump looking west


Apollo Column Rick McDonald sitting in the notch at base


Apollo Column defined


Hiking to The Bump


Geoff Silverman after leading Fire Spire


Fire Spire was the best rock out of the group of spires so far.
_________________________
Why is patience a virtue?
Cause not many people have it.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing

Top
#1055616 - 01/30/12 09:29 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Plaidman]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Gordy Sherman on unnamed route (5.11a) in the Orange Bowl at Honeycombs, Umpqua.
[img]
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1055619 - 01/30/12 09:35 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

The Eagle Claw (A4)

Top
#1055625 - 01/30/12 10:00 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
pcg Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/25/10
Posts: 443
TRs: 0 Photos: 51
Loc: OR
I took this picture a few years ago in the Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon. What is this?

Top
#1057548 - 02/12/12 10:12 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Beginning 0900 SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 25
There will be an Adopt A Crag Day at Rattlesnakes (Rogue)hosted by Southern Oregon University, the Access Fund, and BLM.
Contact is Willie Long (williewiggler@gmail.com)
Our goal is to clean up the base of the climbing area and the access road, reestablish parts of the access trail after logging, and replace some anchors. We are planning on a half day of work with (weather allowing) a half day of climbing.
greg


Edited by g orton (02/12/12 10:49 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1061675 - 03/17/12 08:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

March climbing on Tyee sandstone in the Callahans. Ray Williams on Kaluha Krypton (.10a).
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1067882 - 05/11/12 04:38 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
I just had hernia surgery and now I'm stuck on the couch getting high percocet and staring out the window at the sun... So as I sit here wishing I could be outside playing, lets see those Oregon Pinnacle pictures I now everyone has!!!


Jeff Thomas on "Dreamboat Annie" 5.7+ on The Royal Arch

Top
#1067883 - 05/11/12 04:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

One more of Jeff Thomas on "Dreamboat Annie" 5.7+ on The Royal Arch with the Rabbit Ears and Panorama Point in the background.

Top
#1067900 - 05/11/12 07:39 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: pcg]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: pcg
I took this picture a few years ago in the Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon. What is this?


Oh hey pcg sorry for the slow response, that is the Twin Pillars in the Mill Creek Wilderness. There are some more pictures of climbing on that pile of crap on some of the previous pages in the thread.

Top
#1067901 - 05/11/12 07:41 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

Brian Gilbert on "The Penguin" 5.10-

Top
#1067903 - 05/11/12 07:47 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

From L to R: Keith's Knob, The Bridge, Butterfly Dome & Butterfly Buttress, Bumblebee Buttress, The Bobcat and The Camels Head.

Top
#1067905 - 05/11/12 07:49 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

From L to R: Chicken Rock, Hen Rock and Rooster Rock

Top
#1067913 - 05/11/12 09:11 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

Needle Rock

Top
#1067916 - 05/11/12 09:37 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
i wanna hear a tr for the kangaroo, it can't be as grim as the smiff guide says, eh?!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1067917 - 05/11/12 09:47 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Nah the Roo aint that bad... Some really loose and rotten rock but with the help of BShmitz we replaced the bolts last year. A 20ft 5.7 solo leads into amphitheater on the north side and scramble to belay bolt in the Roo/Joey notch. Then Chimney up the the first bolt and traverse past 3 or 4 more bolts (5.7) and a crappy fixed pin to an anchor on a slab. An easy 5.3 pitch leads to the summit. I think there is a sling on top, sometimes there hasn't been tho, so if not just down climb to the anchor and rappel. 1 rope puts you back in the the alcove, 2 puts you on the ground. I think if you had a 70 you'd get all the way to the ground with one. A fun big old school tower. It's a shame that 99% of the rock on that tower is crap because if not it would be home to lots of cool routes... Oh well!


BSchmitz on belay duty in the notch.


Enjoying a nice lunch out in da Marsupials


I've aided a couple cool steep and thin cracks on the south face of the Roo, to provide access establish some hard sport routes with a friend. If your desperate for something to nail I could give ya the beta... You'd want prolly 20+ beaks though.


Beaking the Roo


Wilbur lookin for free potential.


Hmmm is this thing big enough to keep me off the deck?!?!

Top
#1067923 - 05/11/12 11:12 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
i was so broken-off-at-the-bend last weekend i'da qualied at a bolt ladder smile

i'm inspired now though, so next time it's goign down rawk
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1068921 - 05/21/12 09:03 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

Pete Guagliardo follows the first pitch on the South Rabbit Ear, while Brian Gilbert & Greg Orton rack up at the base. October 2011. Photo: Chris Winter Esq.

Top
#1070171 - 05/29/12 11:49 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon



Edited by g orton (05/29/12 11:53 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1070182 - 05/30/12 07:48 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
some amazing stuff here but that last one - holy shit g orton, that's the best shot of the monster I've ever seen...where was it taken from??

Top
#1070331 - 05/30/12 06:04 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1132
TRs: 16 Photos: 449
Loc: finally back to OR
Originally Posted By: g orton



One of the most amazing photos of a pinnacle I have ever seen let alone of the Turkey Os Baculum. I am wondering if my phalic reference offends Argetino Gaucho?


Edited by shapp (05/30/12 06:05 PM)
_________________________
shapp

Top
#1071914 - 06/11/12 07:15 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: shapp]
Teh Phuzzy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/03/10
Posts: 359
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: (50TREE)
View from the Summit of Squaw Rock at Smith Rocks.


Sorry about the quality of my dumb phone camera...

There is a rap anchor on the top now (would guess that Tyler has something to do with that), but hauling a rope out there is not worth it imo. Easy solo up and down with the hardest stuff right at the start.
_________________________
never need a cliffside push
never turn my brain to mush

Top
#1073336 - 06/24/12 09:39 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
McKinley Rock, Southern Lane Co. as seen from the air over the Umpqua with Tyler Adams


Edited by g orton (06/25/12 07:55 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1073615 - 06/27/12 07:46 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

Redman Tooth Pinnacles from the Air with Tyler Adams over the Umpqua.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1073637 - 06/27/12 10:54 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1381
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
Mooner and his airplane are getting popular! grin All are form the Willamette NF


and the biggest of them all...
_________________________
"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."

Top
#1074806 - 07/05/12 10:47 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: 111]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Nice Menagerie photos.
What is the rock in the lower right photo?
That's not the bridge is it?

Here is a link to a short slideshow of this spring on Old Man Rock.
http://www.gabrielmorganphotography.com/oldmanoldwomantraversemay2012#h2b78724f


Edited by g orton (07/05/12 10:51 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1078310 - 08/08/12 11:09 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
FYI for anyone interested in the Williamson Cliffs.
The Access Fund has been working with the FS to improve climber access to the cliffs. Last week we met with an AF trail crew representative and the FS and looked at options for climber access along the base of the 6 walls. So far discussions seem to be going well and we hope to have an Adopt A Crag trail day sometime next spring. This will be a big project and we'll need all the help we can get.


Edited by g orton (08/08/12 11:22 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1078320 - 08/09/12 12:44 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
JosephH Offline
sprayer

Registered: 08/11/04
Posts: 5605
TRs: 1 Photos: 478
Loc: PDX
Good on you guys for sticking with it on the cooperative front down there.

Top
#1081010 - 09/06/12 07:34 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: JosephH]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
If anyone with a drill is intersted. Harold and I will be sinking bolts into the SE side of Acker Rock this Sunday. We have the Lookout rented Sunday night. FS has supplied the bolts. We will be rappelling and counting a rare buckwheat. Let me know if you are interested. Beers on me.
greg


Edited by g orton (09/06/12 07:37 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1084991 - 10/09/12 10:20 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon


Edited by g orton (10/16/12 12:51 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1106531 - 06/11/13 09:47 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
One of those days when I wished I had something besides my cell phone. Sorry for the poor quality. Ray Williams last Sunday making the crux move over the overhang, pitch 2 of HangTen, ***.10a, McKinley Rock.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1106693 - 06/14/13 11:46 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Ray Williams leading pitch 2 over the overhang on Taste of Honey (****.10b), Honeycombs. photo courtesy RW.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1110044 - 08/10/13 11:19 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Thanks to meetings between the Forest Service and the Access Fund the 1st and 5th Walls a the Williamson Cliffs just north Klamath Falls will be reopened to climbing. We will be holding a trail day to work with he Access Funds, trail crew on September 13 and 14. Anyone who would like to help out or would like to learn more about this climbing area are encouraged to attend. greg
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1110434 - 08/16/13 12:34 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Please note: The Forest Service is asking for comments to its Proposal to increase its Peregrine closure in the Keith Creek Drainage of the Menagerie. For more information please refer to Access Issues on casecadeclimbers.com
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1116541 - 11/30/13 08:49 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
November 29, 2013. Finding the sun at McKinley Rock. A perfect day in the sun.

Ray Williams leading Pitch_1 (5.10a) of "Big Balls in Cowtown".

Logan Wetherell topping out after leading the right variation to Pitch_2 (5.10c).

After we all took turns backing off Logan finally took the lead on the third pitch (5.10c) of "Big Balls in Cowtown".
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1130017 - 10/14/14 04:37 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3589
TRs: 76 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!
And now you belong with the ages. Thanks

Top
#1133164 - 01/08/15 09:34 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Sunrise in the Callahans.


Edited by g orton (01/08/15 10:02 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1142487 - 08/26/15 09:56 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: 111]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Photo from this weekend on the TURKEY MONSTER
with Plaid (Portland), Logan Wetherell UO, Benedict Springe UO, Willie Long SOU, and Ray Williams (Roseburg).


Edited by g orton (08/30/15 02:15 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#1153008 - 01/06/17 09:39 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
bedellympian Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/01/12
Posts: 216
TRs: 33 Photos: 198
Loc: Bend, OR, USA
Looks like this thread has been dormant for a while. Maybe some folks will come back out of the woodwork and get us some stoke for the end of this cold snap. I'm interested if anyone knows anything about...

1. "Gothic Rock" north of Sisters at the end of Green Ridge.
2. If you head up the White Water River from its confluence with the Metolius it looks like there are some big south facing cliffs above the drainage at around 5k' that might be similar to Cougar Crag near Bend. Anyone been there? Rock quality? Routes?
3. West Ridge of the Strawberries and the range west of that above John Day both have some domes/spires. visible from the road. Anyone know?
4. Table Rocks near Medford got any routes?

Thanks folks!
_________________________
one step, two steps... 10,000

Top
#1153305 - 01/24/17 03:27 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
BendB Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/04/13
Posts: 2
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Bend, OR
Agreed, I'd love to see that.

1) Here's my TR on Gothic Rock from a couple of summers ago:

http://blog.brandonsimonds.com/2015/08/gothic-rock-tr.html

Cheers,

~B

Top
#1153336 - 01/26/17 02:18 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1132
TRs: 16 Photos: 449
Loc: finally back to OR
In tribute to the master of choss that started this thread, who we lost so young (Corvallisclimb):

Some more pinnacles from the land-o-boners in SE Oregon (spring 2016):























For all the phallic pics, I like to include this for balance, which I entitle "The Crystal Snatch"


The crystal snatch is a void within a very large geode welded into this wall:




Edited by shapp (01/27/17 09:29 AM)
_________________________
shapp

Top
Page 1 of 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 >



Moderator:  fern, mattp, Off_White 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top