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#1011054 - 03/25/11 08:23 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: denalidave]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359


Alan Watts on top of Lost Hardware Pinnacle, with Dissapearing Tower on the left.

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#1018258 - 05/24/11 06:30 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Spring 2011, a new season.
I'll start this thread back up.
Chris, nice report on your climb up Old Man on the Prize. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthre...011#Post1018254
I'll pull the poison oak out at the base of the Prize again when I'm up there next weekend.

In your email, you asked about the gate to the Callahans. It is still open and we are still driving gear in on Saturdays and Sundays. After March 15 it can close at anytime. Usually they will start locking the gate on a weekday or lock the lower gate and leave the upper gate unlocked until everyone is out. That said last year I got locked behind the gates on a Sunday, so you never know. Your safest bet would be to drop people and gear off at the top and have someone drive back and park your rig at the lower gate. But, they will be missing the true Callahans experience of the walk in that offers a great morning warmup and for me, a badly needed spring workout.


Edited by g orton (05/24/11 07:39 AM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

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#1018259 - 05/24/11 07:19 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
Teh Phuzzy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/03/10
Posts: 359
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: (50TREE)
Originally Posted By: ivan
just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?


The Umpqua is drying out, eh?
_________________________
never need a cliffside push
never turn my brain to mush

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#1018271 - 05/24/11 08:58 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Teh Phuzzy]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17493
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: Teh Phuzzy
Originally Posted By: ivan
just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?


The Umpqua is drying out, eh?

fo'shizzle, and come next month the family floats off to virginia and i have fuck all to do!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1018292 - 05/24/11 10:47 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
cja Offline
n00b

Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 42
TRs: 3 Photos: 13
Thanks Greg, and thanks for the info too.

Sounds like we may have missed our chance to poach the famous Tyrolean? Thanks in advance for pulling the oak--I hate that stuff.

I'm already thinking I'll go back for a clean free ascent next year with a warmup approach via the cable traverse. We stopped and contemplated it, but neither of us pushed the other hard enough to commit to it. (Take an extra short cord to fix on the other side of the river if you plan on that and don't interpret this as suggested approach.)

Phuzzy, it's just over 4 hrs actual driving time from P-town. Add your gas, pee, and beer stops to this time, and go get on it. I think Radek did it in a day some time back, but I'd suggest rolling into the hot springs down the road and finding a spot near there to kip in the woods. Next day, bike on the river trail, float, or climb something else. We went to the Callahans Sunday, which is great sport cragging (sandstone!), and not that far out of your way as you've got to come back through Roseburg in any case...for more solitary adventure check out McKinley Rock (prolly not open yet though?)

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#1018928 - 05/26/11 03:23 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: cja]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Tom Baumans got lots of good storys about the cable crossing. Maybe oldmanrock can chime in since he was probably there.

But one time BITD they were going accross the cable crossing and had the belay rope laying in the middle of the road, as the cable starts on the opposite side of the road. Needless to say a car came ripping down the highway with the belay line hanging a foot above the road. Well you all can guess what happend, some loud snaps and some pissed off drivers... a couple more stories of using aluminum carabiners on the cable are out there as well.

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#1019042 - 05/26/11 11:33 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
OldManRock Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/24/04
Posts: 85
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
Yes I remember the time Tom decided to cross using just the cable and an aluminum carabiner - He was half way across commenting on the salmon in the river he could see, when he got real quiet - He was down to half the thickness of the biner - I think 99% of his weight was on his arms the rest of the way - If he had asked I would have loaned him some of my steel biners smile - I also coming back to cable crossing after Tom, Jerry Calbaum, and I had done both Old Man and Old Woman, and saw Smoky Bear ranger across the river by his official forest service pickup - He looked at us, and we looked at him - He didn't leave, so what the hell, we crossed over, locked the cart up, and came down - His first question was "Where did you get the key ?" - Tom had a good story that covered that, so then he said "I'm here because some people told us you climbers were molesting the eagles" - We told him its the last thing in the world we would molest, and so he had done his duty, and left us without saying anything else.
_________________________
All Rocks Go To Heaven !!

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#1019137 - 05/27/11 01:46 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Great stuff! Thanks Gary!!!

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#1019156 - 05/27/11 03:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
cja Offline
n00b

Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 42
TRs: 3 Photos: 13
hmm, steel biners, eh? that sounds like a smart idea wink
Now I have a reason to buy myself one of those...

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#1020485 - 06/06/11 11:50 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: cja]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Yesturday on the Umpqua
Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolean, Spring 2011.


Edited by g orton (06/06/11 11:52 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

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#1023282 - 06/23/11 04:49 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Whos been on this sweet summit?! One of the finest locations to picnic in the gorge, the Alpenjager!


Lookin like a fruit on top of the Alpenjager.

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#1023334 - 06/24/11 08:48 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
that's a big sprawling meadow up there!

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#1026977 - 07/15/11 07:11 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!!


Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011

hcluv hcluv

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#1027066 - 07/16/11 03:58 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1474
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!!


Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011

hcluv hcluv


HELL YEAH, happy are those that live out their dreams, give some details:)

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#1027729 - 07/20/11 02:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
and the Horse Cock from above looks a little smaller...


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#1031176 - 08/17/11 12:20 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359


The Eagles Claw wink

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#1031191 - 08/17/11 08:41 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1474
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
sick gnar!!!! solo?

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#1031257 - 08/17/11 03:18 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: powderhound]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: powderhound
sick gnar!!!! solo?


Naw I had a very nice and patient belayer for this one wink

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#1032894 - 08/31/11 07:51 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Acker Rock Lookout has just come back online as a rental at $40 per night plus $9 reservation fee. The only way to reserve a night at the lookout is at recreation.gov

Climbing the Peregrine Traverse and/or Eagle's Dare and spending a night at the lookout is a 4-star experience.

For more information contact the Tiller Ranger Station: (541) 825-3201

_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

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#1035781 - 09/26/11 09:34 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon


Edited by g orton (09/26/11 09:35 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

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#1035784 - 09/26/11 09:44 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
Teh Phuzzy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/03/10
Posts: 359
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: (50TREE)
Where the hell did you find that thing?! crazy
_________________________
never need a cliffside push
never turn my brain to mush

Top
#1035818 - 09/27/11 07:20 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Teh Phuzzy]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17493
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: Teh Phuzzy
Where the hell did you find that thing?! crazy

looks safe to me smile

looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1035940 - 09/27/11 10:14 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: ivan]
KirkW Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/03/06
Posts: 519
TRs: 4 Photos: 28
Loc: Corvallis, OR
Originally Posted By: ivan
Originally Posted By: Teh Phuzzy
Where the hell did you find that thing?! crazy

looks safe to me smile

looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it?


Pretty sure that vile beast is the turkey. I wonder if it got new bolts last weekend? Ahem...Tyler? If not when should I show up to help. wave
_________________________
it's about time someone stepped up and got those bullshit 3rd world money wasting schools shut down

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#1046065 - 12/03/11 02:52 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
markd Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/21/03
Posts: 437
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
one of favorite places to climb in oregon just happens to have this one.

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#1046079 - 12/03/11 05:40 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
yeah MARKD!!!! see you in a couple weeks!

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