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#928850 - 12/20/09 10:55 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Bill,
I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here.
It makes them harder to stay on.
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

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#928891 - 12/21/09 08:26 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
DCramer Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: Seattle
Plenty of pinnacles in WA too....


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#928976 - 12/21/09 12:04 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: DCramer]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11940
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: g orton
Bill,
I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here.
It makes them harder to stay on.


LOL!!!!

But aren't ya suppose to be on the top part when you encounter one of those sideways monsters? I'll defer to your experience in these matters of course...jus' wondering. smirk

________________________________________________________

Originally Posted By: DCramer
Plenty of pinnacles in WA too....


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....

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#929001 - 12/21/09 01:17 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
DCramer Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: billcoe


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....


The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......

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#929038 - 12/21/09 03:47 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: DCramer]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: DCramer
Originally Posted By: billcoe


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....


The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......


Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.

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#929040 - 12/21/09 03:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse.
With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not?


Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock

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#929071 - 12/21/09 07:09 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3593
TRs: 77 Photos: 650
Loc: Seattle!
Brad has done it reverse and forwards a bunch. the dude is core solo.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#929074 - 12/21/09 07:15 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: wayne]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Ya Brad did the FA I don't know anyone else thats repeated it. He could have done it more than once. So I figured solo was the best way to repeat it for my 23rd birthday.

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#929149 - 12/22/09 08:56 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
DCramer Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 0 Photos: 13
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Originally Posted By: DCramer
Originally Posted By: billcoe


Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....


The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......


Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.


Thanks. I encouraged Justen to go try and free Shitty Park but at the time his eyes were on longer routes. It's a sweet crack for sure. Say hi to Jake if you see him.

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#929157 - 12/22/09 09:25 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: DCramer]
orion_sonya Offline
member

Registered: 03/08/05
Posts: 130
TRs: 0 Photos: 9
Darryl-

By chance did you take those pictures mountain biking? Assuming they're the same, I have always wondered about those little spires - did you hike over to them?

Orion

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#929515 - 12/23/09 05:39 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: orion_sonya]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
The Thumb on the Wombat at Smith is probably one of the most obscure summits out there. Either climb Santiam Highway Ledges (5.10a) or Cat Fight Cracks (5.10a X) or make a long involved ridge scramble from the summit of the Wombat. To quote Watt's "Only the most obsessive peak baggers with bother with this silly spire".


The Thumb (5.7), Smith Rock

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#930509 - 12/30/09 03:25 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11940
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx

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#930573 - 12/30/09 10:42 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Bill, thats great! Is it the Witch?

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#930603 - 12/31/09 08:37 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11940
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
You don't recognize it but that's my fat ass.... I'm vowing to lose some weight for the New Years!

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#930960 - 01/02/10 06:32 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: billcoe]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
The Main Pillar at the Twin Pillars is a damn hard summit. I belive we climbed "The Campfire Route" F7 A3... It was kinda loose, sorta scary, but well worth it. I don't know anyone else that has climbed the Pillars. My guess is its been under 5 ascents. There was no trace of any rappel slings on the summit. Just one original bolt. Thanks Bryan for ripping it up out there with me!






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#931344 - 01/05/10 01:19 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
wassup???? i know there are like 20+ more people who could contribute to this thread.

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#931348 - 01/05/10 03:50 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
JosephH Offline
sprayer

Registered: 08/11/04
Posts: 5608
TRs: 1 Photos: 478
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: g orton

photos above from today at the Callahans, Treasure Island (below), Iron Maiden, one of the mainy still unclimbed spires, and Rodeo Spire. Each is fine grained sandstone, about 100ft tall.

Ah, sandstone, now you're talking. That almost looks it's been transported from back home in SoIll or W. Ky.




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#931369 - 01/05/10 08:41 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: JosephH]
Mtguide Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 03/03/02
Posts: 553
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Portland,OR
Obviously there's been a big fire at Twin Pillars since I was last there about 8-9 years ago. Anyone know how much of the area burned? Stein's Pillar, Mill Creek canyon? Sorry to see that, it used to be a really pretty place.

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#931431 - 01/05/10 11:56 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: Mtguide]
luvshaker Offline
member

Registered: 11/18/03
Posts: 194
TRs: 0 Photos: 16
Loc: 500 miles from granite
I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....
but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.
There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.

Never heard of "F7"


Edited by luvshaker (01/05/10 01:08 PM)

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#931497 - 01/05/10 04:36 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: luvshaker]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: luvshaker
I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....
but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.
There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.

Never heard of "F7"


ya on the think the south face there is a bolt like 15ft up missing a hanger i dont think there are any more... F7 was before the yos decimal system F = free F10 being the limit. the only spot where twin pillars are written up are in the dodge guide wich uses the original rating system. so ill stick with the original rating crosseye

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#932367 - 01/09/10 11:01 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Some trivia on Acker Rock.
We've varified that there is a buckwheat flower variety that has only been found to occur on Acker.
http://www.brit.org/fileadmin/Publicatio...BRIT3_2__21.pdf
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

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#933384 - 01/13/10 01:50 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: corvallisclimb]
beaconben Offline
member

Registered: 03/15/04
Posts: 124
TRs: 1 Photos: 12
Loc: Portland, OR
Awesome thread, thanks contributors and Tyler for starting it up. I agree that pinnacles are kind of Oregon's strength as far as climbing goes, although questionable rock and horrible ancient fixed "bolt ladders" seem to be what these routes have in common.

In any case, this thread is a great psyche. Gonna have to hit the Menagerie and Callahanís this summer and scare the shit out of myself

Tyler, have you climbed The Steeple, near Steins. is it easy to find.

Sorry I have no photos to post, although you can check out tha Abaxas TR posted in Nov 09. Is the Monument Oregon's largest pinnacle. I Guess that would be Mt Jefferson.


Edited by beaconben (01/18/10 12:24 PM)

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#935614 - 01/22/10 11:15 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: beaconben]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon
Here is a route that should be on every Oregon climber's to do list:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North...ding_94216.html
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
#935626 - 01/23/10 08:42 AM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
Checat Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/12/04
Posts: 225
TRs: 0 Photos: 30
Loc: Mount Pleasant, MI
This route was one of the first 50 I climbed ever, when I first started climbing while going to school in Ashland. Stellar. There are actually a couple satellite pillars near Pilota and a couple of crags sprinkled around the Norcal border some right off I-5, some you have to get on the off roads that run around Hornbrook, the Buddhist Temple etc... some climbed, some not...

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#938725 - 02/02/10 10:54 PM Re: Oregon Pinnacles [Re: g orton]
g orton Offline
member

Registered: 12/14/09
Posts: 131
TRs: 0 Photos: 112
Loc: SW Oregon

McKinley Rock


Double Chocolate rock, Callahans



Mind Planet, Callahans


Edited by g orton (02/02/10 11:30 PM)
_________________________
"FOR EVERY VOICE YOU'VE EVER HEARD,
THERE'S A THOUSAND WITHOUT A WORD."

- Curtis/Curtis

Top
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