anybody know about a bad fall on snow creek wall today?

all i know is that there was an ambulance in the snow creek parking lot around 7PM on friday night that was responding to a climbing accident.

damn. i hope people make it.

The climber is OK,he was rescued overnight and was at the hospital in Wenatchee at 7:00 A.M. this morning. There was a small article in todays paper but I have no idea how to link it. He was hit by a headsized rock apparently trundled by the goats and fell 20 feet.

sounds like the goats are getting more aggressive. "either let us chew on your packstraps or we'll trundle rocks on you" seems to be the clear message here. i say we stand firm and not give in to terrorist threats. appeasing them will only make them bolder and more demanding.

http://www.wenatcheeworld.com/news/2009/oct/10/climber-rescued-aid-car-hit/

Climber rescued, aid car hit

By Rochelle Feil Adamowsky
World staff writer

Saturday, October 10, 2009

LEAVENWORTH — A climber on the Snow Creek Wall fell about 20 feet Friday evening and suffered broken ribs, cuts and a possible concussion, according to Lt. Maria Agnew of the Chelan County Sheriff’s Office.

In addition to officials from the Sheriff’s Office, four Chelan County Mountain Rescue volunteers were on site to rescue the man, Brian Douglas, 47, hometown unknown. “It was a technical rescue that required ropes,” said Agnew.

The Sheriff’s office received the initial call at about 5:30 p.m. Friday from a cell phone from someone who was with Douglas, Agnew said. Douglas was transported to Central Washington Hospital at about 7 a.m. Saturday morning. He was in stable condition as of Saturday morning, according to a hospital spokesman.

A Leavenworth Fire Department vehicle responding to the call was hit by a motorcyclist at 5:45 p.m. on Icicle Road about one mile past the Sleeping Lady Mountain Retreat, Agnew said. The Leavenworth motorcyclist was transported to Central Washington Hospital with non life-threatening injuries.

The newspaper stated the incorrect name; Brian was one of the climbers on the scene, and actually the first to get to me, the injured climber. I was very fortunate in having Brian and his partner around (the only other party in the area). They went above and beyond even what I could have hoped for.

My partner, Susan, will do a write-up of this incident and post later tonight or by tomorrow. I simply say I owe much to her skills and presence. Thanks also to the rescue party, made up of both sheriff's department members and volunteers--there was a lot going on that night and they were stretched thin as it was, and did a great job. It was no easy task.

I have a few injuries, hopefully nothing permanent, and will be released from the hospital tomorrow.

And yes, the whole thing was goat-induced!

Steve Murphy

Glad you are OK Steve, and it will be interesting to hear your story!

Hi,

This is NOT Steve, but his climbing partner Susan using his account. I live in the Tetons so don't have an account here.

I can clarify what unfolded October 9th at Snow Creek Wall. Steve Murphy and I had finished Outer Space and were walking off when the accident occurred not far from the base. At 5:20pm Steve, wearing his helmet, was struck on his torso by a head-sized rock dislodged by a goat. The impact knocked him off his feet, down 10’ of scree/slab, and over a 20+ foot drop. He landed on rocks on somewhat of a ledge.

Two climbers, Brian and Eric, were just below us and helped me assess and treat Steve’s injuries: concussion, facial laceration, broken molar(s), jaw, ribs, and ankle and the associated abrasions and contusions. The ankle required surgery. The two climbers played an instrumental role, especially in having a phone and going to the car to get sleeping bags to insulate our patient. The goats sporadically knocked more small rocks and scree down over the next few hours.

Search and Rescue response was delayed because personnel were busy on other calls. The team that arrived included a couple of Chelan County Sheriffs deputies in addition to members of the all-volunteer Chelan County Mountain Rescue Team, one of whom was both an emergency room doctor and a climber. We were fortunate to work with a great team.

The evacuation involved belaying the litter for 7 or 8 pitches, mostly traversing and also some down through the logs of the old burn. Many thanks to all the wonderful people who assisted.

We arrived at the trailhead and the ambulance around 6:15 the following morning.

Two corrections to the article: Steve is only 46… as of the day of this event. We do not know why the goat thought Steve would appreciate a chunk of granite for his birthday. He prefers beer. He recently moved from Bellingham (now on an extended road trip).

Key points: wear a helmet anytime you’re potentially exposed to rockfall especially at crags that goats are known to inhabit. A few days prior, we observed goat-generated rockfall at Pearly Gates and noted that goats could be a serious hazard. Responses to this incident reinforce the frequency of goat-generated rockfall. Without the helmet Steve would not have survived.

Also, learn and practice field-based first aid skills. This is more important than a first aid kit. I am an experienced Wilderness First Responder and recommend this level of training because it is more field appropriate and relevant, especially with the gear we carry as climbers, than Wilderness EMT. Snow Creek Wall is not a remote crag… until one gets injured.

Safe Climbing and Sweet Cracks, Suz

Thanks for the information, hope you make a full and quick recovery.

The first/second-person writes up regarding accidents this summer have been a really amazing addition to the website. They're all apreciated!

Seems to be a strange point since, from what I understand, W-EMT is WFR plus some more in-depth EMT shit.

Glad your friend's OK.

I always try and appease the goats up there with an offering of my salty urine. Keeps them busy for a while...

+1

Thanks for sharing the details of your experience and for the reminder that the most dangerous part of the climb is often not part of the climb. Best wishes to you, Suz and Steve!

Heal well Steve!

Thanks all for the good wishes. And again a big public thanks to the rescue team, to the two climbers Brian and Eric, and to my partner. It was a long night and wrestling with the litter that long was a tough job. The hospital crew in Wenatchee was wonderful as well. I felt that I was in extremely capable hands at every point. I have a LOT to be thankful for!

Hi Pete,
This is Suz again, not Steve.
I can see how it might seem confusing to have recommended WFR over W-EMT given that W-EMT is quite a lot more training.

One would think more training would better prepare one for a field emergency, but the real life difference for us recreationists is negligible, esp give the time and cost difference between these levels of training.

W-EMT is the standard if you're going to work on a Search and Rescue team because when you get a call-out you'll respond with the equipment, O2, and drugs that your training allows you to use.

If, however, your time in the backcountry is focused on being out there, climbing, skiing, whatever, you won't have anything more than maybe a first aid kit in your pack. W-EMT certification would just mean you'd have a better understanding of the physiology of why your patient is dying. Without the additional tools you won't be able to do anything more than a WFR.

WFR is the industry standard for outdoor education and guiding. This course covers enough physiology and anatomy for one to understand the rationale behind the various treatments so the rescuer can make informed decisions. They focus a lot on improvisation because they know you won't have anything more than you normally carry in your pack (or in your boat or sled or whatever).

Outdoor educators and guides sometimes start their career with W-EMT thinking that will make them more hireable, that it makes a difference, but then later downgrade to WFR when they realize it's not worth maintaining the W-EMT. They show up in WFR recertification courses regularly.

So this is why I recommend WFR, a much more accessible level of training and one that is ideal for the real-life field situations that can occur while we are out there having fun or working in jobs where the goal is largely to avoid needing first aid skills.

Wilderness First Responder is not a cheap or short course, but it's more than worth it. The cost of my 20 years of WFR and recertifications no doubt cost less than the cast on Steve's ankle.

Helmets and Sweet Cracks, Suz

Just a final update...

Even though I've said it before, again a big "Thank you" to the Chelan County Sheriff's Department members and the volunteers from the Chelan County Search and Rescue. Managing the litter for that number of hours in that terrain was extremely strenuous, I'm sure. You guys did everything possible to minimize my discomfort and I really appreciated that!

Thanks to Dr. Mark--your "bedside" manner and followup visits were incredible.

Thanks to Brian and Eric, the two climbers on the scene. You guys were great--calm and supportive throughout. It was nice to be able to see you later in Bellingham.

And thanks of course to my partner Susan. You were (and are!) simply great.

And Thank You to the doctors and staff at Washington Central--I was in great hands the whole time.

________________

Susan and I spent hours going over the incident. Susan yelled "Rock" as she saw the rock just a second before it struck me. I do not remember her yell, nor do I remember the ensuing fall, other than two ephemeral thoughts. One of "Quit pushing me!", and a second of "Can I stop at this level". Those thoughts were like seeing just two frames out of a movie though--I did not know what was going on and I only remember them in retrospect.

That's how quickly this accident happened...for me, no warning at all. From picking my way down the trail, literally the next thing I know is that I don't know where I am or what I've been doing.

The injury that will take longest to heal is the ankle--actually a tibia spiral fracture (and fibula fracture) that extends about six inches up the bone like a stripe on a barber's pole. The X-Ray was pretty neat. I need at least four more weeks (six weeks total) of non-weight bearing activity (or non-activity . The doctor said that with any luck I will get onto the slopes for the latter part of the season.

The other injuries are healing well. The ribs get better day by day, it is amazing how quickly I am regaining mobility. The jaw hurts, but I had pizza last night so I am getting excited by the prospect of eating normally. Nothing to complain about, really. It is quite interesting to watch and feel the body repair itself.

I was unlucky to be in the wrong place at the wrong time, but fortunate in every aspect after that.

This incident should not be viewed totally as a "freak accident". There are enough goats and enough climbers sharing the same area for this to not happen again. After posting this, Susan and I have heard from several friends about near-misses of this type. The only unusual part of this accident was the size of the rock. I have been in these areas before and seen goat-induced rock fall, but the rocks have always been scree-sized.

Before I left on that trip I had signed up for a WFR class at the end of November. This only reinforces that decision. I don't know which would be worse...to be in this situation as the climber's partner and not know what to do, or to be the climber and not have anyone around me not know what to do.

I can't wait to get back onto the rock!

Happy and safe climbing all,
Steve

I wonder if the goats do it on purpose, or is it they just like to be above you and the rock fall is incidental. I've seen them knock rocks on the approach to the Beckey Route at Liberty Bell.

Put in for a mountain goat tag next year and take your revenge.

From being around pet goats I've seen they they are just naturally belligerent ornery animals. We had two of them living in a metal storage shed and one day they decided they wanted to ram the sides of the shed. In one day they trashed the sides of the shed all the way around. We had to replace it with a wood shed.

These ones were probably teenagers that decided it was fun to trundle rocks.

I've seen a softball sized rock come down Outer Space while we were on the route.

Yeah, goats like trundeling onto people.

I can see the theisis now:"Passive/Aggressive Behavior in the North American Mountain Goat."