Trip: buck mountain - firs: buckshot (an easy way up the north side)

Date: 12/3-5/2008

Trip Report:
first internet recorded spray (attempt at hype deflation):

on 12/4, cappellini and i climbed the line marked in red on the accompanying photo (photo used with permission of john scurlock: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/mountains ). we found conditions thinner than shown on john's photo from 12/7/05. we pitched out the first 4 ropelengths (wi3, wi4, wi4+, wi3). 3 simul-climbing blocks followed (quite a few wi2/3 sections separated by snow slopes). late in the day we were at the head of the main gully below some overhangs (the uppermost point of the blue line in the photo). overcome with a recurrence of alpine chicken syndrome, we downclimbed a couple hundred feet and simul-zigged right up steep sugar snow and neve to a belay. a zag left for 2 pitches (a bit of m4/5?)in the dark led to the ridge. dan was unwilling to slog up to the summit so we descended the west slopes and back to the tent on the moraine.

in retrospect, we should have finished up the a ramp system roughly marked by the green line (more sustained and aesthetic) and slogged to the summit.

to my knowledge the only photos dan took were during the hike out.

as wayne noted, there are other lines to be climbed here. a line of smears directly up the north face would be a fantastic addition. ice forms early and those willing to play roulette with the road condition will be rewarded. watch for cornices (very small this year compared to previous years that i have seen it) and wind deposition.

[img]

buckshot: iv, wi4+ plus a little bit of m4/5(?)



Gear Notes:
screws, rack to 2.5" plus kb's/la's

Approach Notes:
call the usfs wenatchee river ranger station at 548-6977 to make sure all gates are open on the chiwawa river road. 4wd and/or chains highly recommended.

nice looking climb...

Looking up at that impressive face this past summer as close as I wanted to get to it from the safety of King Lake, leads me to one conclusion of your feat: Cutting edge alpinism in a huge, sinister amphitheater. Kudos!

outstanding - you understate an true epic.

homage paid to dberdinka & JR who sent me over there way back when, as well as to the other well-known badasses who have sieged that face. I know JR is fond of that N ridge but the face to me is the real deal on that mt.

I have looked very closely at that top part, your blue/green, & wondered about the difficulties there, since that seems to be the most indistinct part of your line. definitely, above your blue, I wondered what the hell would happen next.

R&D: Nice climbin'

Let the hyperbole begin!!

Wow, Nice job! It finally fell. You guys should get mad kudos for this!

Beautifully done! Looks like there was some great puckering to be had.

That is freaking great looking climbing.

I know you guys dont roll this way, but sorry if I stole any thunder on this one. I do get excited when I see something that looks so fun. It is interesting to have it a bit scary too, and I would consider myself very fortunate to catch ideal conditions on it. What a place we live in! There a only a few places in NA that can offer faces like that!Almost none to our south.
Again, Great job and ,again, sorry, I accept my role as the class blabbermouth. I just hope it is never too annoying.

:edit:

In an attempt at redemption, I wanted to show a few photos from our (Rolf and I on thanks-giving weekend)attempt. It was a rain-out but I was happy to be there and honored to be asked along.

Awesome $%#*ing climb, but the fact of the matter is Rolf's TRs are always a bit less inspiring than his climbs....

So Wayne (or Rolf) do fill us in on all the epic attempts. There's got to be some good stories in there. And what's next? Heart of Darkness? The upper N Rib would be perfect for drytooling.

Don't forget your bolt kit for the bolt ladder from Guy and John's highpoint

Ya drill a bolt ladder up the impassibe dicontinous section and make it a trade route

Dammit dru you stole my thunder... I guess you type faster than me!

go tell somebody who cares, rat

"firs", "alpine chicken syndrome", ha!

congrats, looks kick-ass

Nice work!

very nice work...impressive to say the least.

Fine work gents! I've looked up at that face and thought "i wonder how that is to climb...?" several times. It looks very impressive!



-j

Nice looking climb there.

Could you guys or someone post more info on the approach to that climb? Such as, how was the road getting in there when you guys did it? How far did you guys have to walk about? How long did it take to get below the face?

I'm interested in trying your route in the next couple days if conditions stay good. I looked at a map and it looks like about a 5 mile approach from Trinity? But, I've never been in the area before.

Wow. I am impressed. I guess you can do it in a low beginning snow year. Much more difficult when there is snow for the approach.

It is about a 5 mile appr. Where the trail comes the closest to the stream is where you cross . Stay in the trees until right adjacent to the wall. Some swacking, but if you peg it it is not bad. Getting through the bottom cliff band is done just to the left of the 2 big main waterfalls, up a hidden ramp.

I would bet the road is closed though and the wall is unstable with half a foot of snow now on it. This is one of those early climbs.

Dave and I gave it a go a few winters ago but avy conditions ruled it out. I know of a few other attempts but I'm not one to out anyone. Lot of other ice in that valley!

Beautiful line... nice work Rolf and Dan!

Cool route! Does anyone know where the 1976 Folsom-Moore route went? It is mentioned briefly in CAJ-2.

RIGHT ON! Great climbing Rolf & Dan. Way to crush!

In fall, this has to be one of the more accessible big ice/rock faces in the Cascades. Nice work fellas

Right on dudes!

The last few pics of wayne's really put the voyage into the vertical in perspective.

who wants to lick my peepee? all procedes will be donated to the charity of my choice. start bidding.